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case 446 hyd drive problem


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18 replies to this topic

#1 R Miller OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2011 - 11:22 AM

I have a 446 and i changed the oil in the system. I replaced the hoses to the cooler because of some leaks and age and i cleaned the cooler coils. Now my problem is it moves along fine on flat ground but when i try to go up some of the hills in my yard it jurks and slips like air in the system, i'm not sure what to check. I have put at least 10 to 20 hrs. on it since i changed oil and it still does this. If i stop while climing hill and restart or bump lever to higher speed it will take of and go. Can someone please help me on what to check. Thanks

                       

#2 Big John OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2011 - 11:28 AM

I think U have it figured out. It's air in the system. After running it awhile check cooler to see if it
warmed up any. Air in the system can cause a lot of grief.

#3 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2011 - 04:20 PM

What kind of oil did you use? It sounds like the oil is foaming. Straight hydraulic oil will NOT work. It becomes foam in short order. You want to use Shell Rotella 15W40 MOTOR OIL. It's either the wrong oil, or you have a leak on the pump intake hose.

#4 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2011 - 09:54 AM

What is the serial number of this tractor?

What type of oil did you put into the hydraulic system?

Did the tractor perform this way prior to changing the oil or only after changing it?

What type of hose did you use to replace the old hoses leading to the cooler?

What type of hose clamps are you using?

#5 R Miller OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2011 - 10:00 PM

I will check the ser # , the oil i used is what the book called for , problem statred after replacing hoses and oil , I used exact hyd hose with good screw type hose clamps. I don't have any leaks.

#6 R Miller OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2011 - 10:02 PM

Thanks for the help

#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2011 - 10:05 PM

This type of system usually has no problem purging air from the system. The wrong type oil or air leak is as far as my personal experience goes with these tractors. Wish I could be of more help.

#8 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 01:34 PM

I will check the ser # , the oil i used is what the book called for , problem statred after replacing hoses and oil , I used exact hyd hose with good screw type hose clamps. I don't have any leaks.


Mr. Miller....

FYI... worm screw hose clamps are not the most ideal clamp for hydraulic hose. It is possible for you to NOT have an oil leak but for air to get sucked past the clamped hose. If you purchased SUCTION hose from a hydraulics shop, then you did the correct thing. You might be surprised at how many owners believe that heater hose or garden hose will work OK. The manual calls for 20W40 MOTOR OIL but that is a difficult grade to find any longer as it has fallen out of favor with engine manufacturers. Please...... if we ask you a question.... try to provide a full answer. Work with us here so we can help you get to the bottom of your problem quickly. What is the brand and grade of oil you put in the hydraulic system?

#9 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 01:55 PM

When I had a hydraulic leak on the Case 444 I replaced the hose (the main pressure hose from pump to valve) and I filled the tank back the specification. After driving it a short time it was surging but I quickly said to myself, I filled it, but then thought about how much I put in compared to what got out, and checked the oil reservoir, and after adding another quart to the dry tank my problem was fixed. I know the books call for certain grades of oil but from my experience you can use any high quality dual grade motor oil grade within the range or 5w and 40w and get away with it when you are in a bind, and it will be ok. And before anyone says it, I know it isn't the specified but it will mix and be ok and since then I had another leak and lost a lot of oil again, so I was forced to go buy more oil and I bought 5w-20 since it was going into winter. And I will add a PTO valve so I will have that same hose off for a third time and I will put in yet another grade of oil after dumping all oil out of the system. So my recommendation is not enough oil and when you go uphill it all shifts to the back of the tank.

#10 ROADSTER5580 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 09:32 AM

New guy here posting 1st time. Been making a living as a diesel mechanic for the past 40+ years. Looking forward to retiring and playing with the old 446 I picked up last week

Screw type clamps are a thing of the past. You can't use them with the newer types of hoses, especially silicone. You get a much better seal with Torx-Clamps and they don't eat into the hose and cause leaks, or in your case, possibly sucking air. Take a look at your fluid and see if it's foaming. Foaming hydraulic fluid is usually either low fluid level or sucking air on the INLET side of the pump. Fluid coming into the pump is under a vacuum and will suck air. Fluid returning from the pump is under positive pressure due to the flow rate and will leak out.

Check to make sure the fluid level is good and chuck those screw clamps in the trash and get some Torx-clamps. You can use Rotella if you like, but my experience has been that Mobil Delvac Super 1300 is much better oil for about the same money and I've got years of oil analyses reports to back that up.

#11 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2011 - 08:40 AM

ROADSTER5580,welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.

#12 1031d OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 02:12 AM

My 195 did this too. I pulled the "oil is oil" stupid move and bought cheapo wally mart oil. It foamed all over the place, whinned a lot and got hot. I ran it for a month. One day I was changing the oil in my CASE 1030 and decieded to drain the 195 while I had the 15W-40 rotella drum open. It moves with power, runs quieter, cooler, and little or no foam. Ingersoll recommends 20W-40 but it is $$$ and appearantly only available through Ingersoll.

#13 cp7 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2012 - 08:41 PM

As was said a year ago in this thread he should have provided the s/n to his tractor.
I don't know anything about the Case/Ingersoll school but if they taught you that all the tractors have an oil level of 1.5 inches down from the neck of the tank then I'd check their credentials. Someone coming along next year reading this with a newer tractor that should be filled to 5 inches down from the neck will make a big mess.
They also only call for 5w20 oil in winter climates below freezing.

#14 1031d OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2012 - 11:53 PM

The case tractor with the hy-driv unit on it calls for 5w20 oil in the system.The oil level should be 1 1/2 inches down from the top of the tank,usualy around 7 qts.This is what I learned in Case/Ingersoll school.I had no idea how much oil belonged in there until I went to school what a learning time I had.Hope this helps.

Rick, while I never got the chance to attend CASE/Ingersoll school I have a couple questions for you. I do however attend CASE-IH service training school. CASE, Colt, and Ingersoll only recommend 5W-20 for operating below 32*F, 20W-40 above 32*F. I along with the majority of owners use 15W-40 year round. Secondly, where does it say to keep it 1 1/2" down from the top of the tank? Go try it, my 2 tractors are still oily messes, page 50 in my 446 owners manual says to keep the oil 5-6" down from the filler. So then, where was this Ingersoll school. I live not too far from Winnecone and even asked about any special training in the past and they deny anything ever existed. I am a CNH certified mechanic, have been for the past 15 years.

#15 cp7 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2012 - 06:54 PM

I'd check their credentials.


Excuse me?
Please reread what I said and reread what you posted.
I wasn't mad at you and I'm still not so please get back to glad with me.
I was just trying to correct the record because just like you did lots of people read year old threads and your misinformation will be on here forever (allot longer than the extra four inches of oil would be on their garage floor).
Another member came and posted the same info I did three hours later and your good with him correcting you but you want to jump up my ... Hello
Maybe it's because I didn't qualify my background. I'm a Union Lather and hung sheetrock for 27 years (but I still know an oily mess about to happen when I see one and like Spicoli's daddy I've got a helova set of tools). :thumbs: