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broken carb on my 8R6

carburetor b&s 8r6

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#1 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 07:46 PM

I have a major problem with my Bolens. It just stopped running on me while I was breaking new ground in a field. I went to start it today and adjust the choke and the whole carb moved. Turns out it broke off before the flange where it connects to the engine. What do I do now? It's cast so I'm not going to be able to weld it. Where can I find a replacement? 

 

 



#2 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 07:52 PM

Got any pictures of where it broke?  Depending on the way it broke you may be able to use a two part epoxy such as JB weld to bond it back together.   If it is cast it can also be oxy/acc welded with brazing rod - the cast usually has to be ground or filed for the bronze rod to stick.  


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#3 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:08 PM

Got any pictures of where it broke?  Depending on the way it broke you may be able to use a two part epoxy such as JB weld to bond it back together.   If it is cast it can also be oxy/acc welded with brazing rod - the cast usually has to be ground or filed for the bronze rod to stick.  

I'll get a picture in a minute.  I was thinking about an epoxy too.  I just ran out of acetylene earlier today too. Would those be cast steel or alum? I've tig welded cast before but unfortunately I do not have a tig welder at home. 



#4 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:17 PM

Here's the pic. 

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#5 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:31 PM

I was thinking of cast iron - if it cast aluminum the bronze method probably will not work but there are probably other products that will work on aluminum.  Did a google search and some people are recommending Devcon which may work better than the JB Weld.  I had a cast aluminum gear box off a Bolens deck that had a piece broken out of it where the seal went in - I used JB weld on it and it stuck fine to the aluminum - let it set up for a day or two before I touched it.  http://gardentractor...-gearbox/page-2 post #16  I realize the carb body may get hotter than the gear box but still should work. 

 

After looking at the picture you may want to make a new flange piece out of steel with a piece of pipe welded to it - you could put a sleeve over the pipe and your carb body for more strength - solder the sleeve to the steel pipe and then use JB weld at the carb side to seal off any air leaks once you have the carb body indexed so that it is positioned correctly and level.  Another option might be some straight high temperature rad hose clamped around the carb body and a new flange piece with a steel pipe - just suggestions - someone else may have a better idea.  


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#6 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:36 PM

Rubber sleeve with 2 clamps like we so on the cold air intakes..



#7 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:37 PM

If you have the room..


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#8 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:38 PM

Nevermind..LOL epoxy ....


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#9 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:40 PM

The picture looks like aluminum.

 

If it were mine I'd unbolt that flange and take the flange and carb to someone who really knows how to weld aluminum.


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#10 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:41 PM

Looking at the picture there appears to be a crack in the casting at the outside of the right hand mounting screw - that is why I am recommending making a new flange piece as it may be getting fatigued and could break again.


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#11 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:43 PM

Nevermind..LOL epoxy ....

Lol yeah too close to the flange.  I think epoxy should work just fine. I had to do that on an old outboard motor where the steering linkage hooked up. That didn't last but this won't have the constant movement and pressure on it.


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#12 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:51 PM

Tomorrow is going to be a nicer day, finally in the 60's here, so I can work on it. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the ideas.


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#13 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2016 - 12:10 AM

its a common part not special to a Briggs 8R6, should be able to find one easy off any junk engine.


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#14 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2016 - 12:30 PM

So I used epoxy and it worked great. The problem is as I was moving my welder I bumped the vise stand knocking it over and broke part of the flange hole off! That's the way my luck is, but the epoxy held! If I can't find a used carb I will use epoxy again and just drill a new hole.  At least the weather is nice finally. 



#15 Garret Ballantine OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2016 - 06:17 PM

Looking at the picture there appears to be a crack in the casting at the outside of the right hand mounting screw - that is why I am recommending making a new flange piece as it may be getting fatigued and could break again.

I didn't even see that until I was about to bolt it back on. You're right it is very fatigue and cracked in more places.







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