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Allis 720 Diesel Repower


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#46 Oldford OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 06:21 AM

Your dedication and imagination are impressive.  Also your fabrication skills.  Like those welds, i never could weld on the vertical... or inside corners.  Cool lookin tractor too


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#47 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2017 - 12:05 PM

  They are complete on the outside except for cleaning up the welds. 

 

 

If my welds looked that good I would be showing them off to the world! :D :D


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#48 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2017 - 07:43 PM

Tinkered on the 720 most of the day.  Didn't get a lot done being I had a migraine come on, but I kept at it.  Best medicine for me is to try & work though rough patches.

  Anyways,  I had to turn down the shaft adapter to 1" to fit my universal joint for the power shaft, then the adapter just bolted to a thin flex plate that bolts to the inside of the flywheel.  Using a universal at an angle would surely destroy the flex plate, as it was designed for use with a welder's generator in a straight line drive.  I needed to machine a stub shaft to weld onto the back of the adapter that will slide snug into the flywheel's pilot bearing hole to steady the shaft to prevent the flex plate from being destroyed.  First pic I'm cutting off the stub after turning, 2nd I am turning the face of the stub perfectly flat so I can put it all in a press to weld.  Last pic is the completed adapter.  The small end is for the universal joint, and the big end slides into the pilot hole.  Should make for a dependable drive line.

 

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Other than this, I just did some more welding on the inside of the motor mounts, and did some head scratching for the power steering.  The power steering should work out well, but will take some time getting it done.  More metal to remove to make room for the steering valve, and some cutting & welding on the column attached to the valve to make it as short as possible.  The driveshaft will clear the steering's OE universal joint by about 3/4" which I had been concerned about.  And after some measuring, the JD steering cylinder I have will work perfectly with the geometry of the front axle link arm.

  Just a matter of having the time to get it all done, which won't be soon, that's for sure.

 

Edited to add:  The larger step-up on the stub shaft is to slip into a recess on the back side of the adapter.  This way it is aligned with the whole assembly once under the press to be welded.


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#49 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2017 - 06:18 PM

I got a keyway cut into the driveshaft flywheel adapter stub today.  I also got the power steering valve completely installed, but it took some tedious work.  To get the steering shaft out of the valve required taking all the retaining bolts out of the valve, and when I did the body sections fell apart and some parts and gaskets all fell out of place.  I had to cut the shaft off, then cut the input shaft off the original steering box to weld onto the shortened steering valve shaft.  As carefully as I could, I put it all back together, and it all rotates fine.  I just hope there aren't any leaks, as taking this valve out later may require pulling the engine!  I didn't even have to modify the inside of the frame to get room for the valve, so it went much easier than I figured it would.

 

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I'll be building the power shaft from engine to hydro next, then need to get hoses made for the steering, and mount the steering cylinder.


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#50 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2017 - 06:09 PM

Once I pulled the engine after welding in the motor mounts, the "draw" from the welding showed itself.  I'll need to elongate 5 engine mount holes slightly with an air die grinder.  Not a biggie, but more work.  I also made an error in measurements concerning the steering box placement.  Once I got a universal joint on the engine today, the mistake was VERY apparent.  The joint will not clear the steering valve.  So now the steering valve will have to be dropped approximately 1", and I do not want to take valve apart again, but it's either that so I can lengthen it's shaft, OR buy a used double joint, cut the end of it off, then weld that onto my column's double joint, which will resolve the problem.  That will cost me $22 to my door.  I sure wish I'd fitted the joint on the flywheel first and I'd not be licking my calf again!  


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#51 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2017 - 06:17 PM

Well..... :hitting_self_roller:    It just hit me I don't have to buy anything to resolve the steering box placement.  The double joint in my column can simply be cut between the 2 universal joints, a spacer welded in and done!  Sometimes I don't see the forest for the trees!  :(


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#52 Cub 1650 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2017 - 07:08 PM

Daniel, It happens to all of us!


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#53 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2017 - 10:35 PM

 Sometimes I don't see the forest for the trees!   :(

 

You can't fool me, there aren't any forest's where you live.  :smilewink:


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#54 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2017 - 06:28 AM

..... and I'd not be licking my calf again!  

 

That's the second time I've heard this statement this week. My Ky born and raised pastor just said that to me on Tues, he said his grandma used to say it.


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#55 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2017 - 03:57 PM

Today I got my steering valve relocated, and the universals going to it cut in half, then lengthened.  The ID of the universals that were welded together was 3/4" square.  So to lengthen it, I drilled and tapped each half for a set screw, then slipped in a short section of 3/4" square stock.  Then I built the driveshaft.  All will clear fine, so I can relax about that.  I turned the charge pump 180* for the opposite rotation.   I now just need to weld in 2 frame reinforcements, so I can bolt the engine in semi-permanently.  

 

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I need to get my power steering hoses made soon, then get the steering cylinder brackets built.


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#56 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2017 - 05:59 PM

Had to quit for the day.  My neck (and the rest of me for that matter) couldn't take any more.  I did get the steering cylinder mocked up so I could take measurements for all the hoses I'll have to get made.  4 hydraulic hoses, and 2 new fittings for the hydro, plus several feet of 3/8 hose for the oil cooler & return line.  Hoses can sure get pricey!  Well, actually the hose is pretty cheap....it's the fittings on the ends that get ya.


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#57 SupplySergeant ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2017 - 07:40 PM

Nice work! I always enjoy your project threads, they inspire me to do better.


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#58 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2017 - 06:57 PM

 After more careful measuring, the battery up front with the radiator is awfully tight, especially due to the hydro cooler hose connections.  So I think I'll be putting the battery under the front of the seat.  Being I will not be using the rear PTO, the battery can drop down near the hydrostatic unit, plus the seat I will be using is higher than OE, giving plenty of clearance.  Not what I had hoped, but it'll have to do.  

  In these pics, the seat is just sitting crooked on top of bolts & stuff, but it gave me enough idea as to clearance & such.

 

20170813_1745281.jpg 20170813_1745481.jpg


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#59 CRFarnsworth OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2017 - 07:13 PM

 .  So I think I'll be putting the battery under the front of the seat.  

 

attachicon.gif20170813_1745281.jpgattachicon.gif20170813_1745481.jpg

Be very careful!  Not a good place to have a battery short out!!      :D     Rick


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#60 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2017 - 07:30 PM

Be very careful!  Not a good place to have a battery short out!!      :D     Rick

 My end plan is to put it inside a modified (shortened) battery box.


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