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Allis 720 Diesel Repower


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#31 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2017 - 06:46 PM

What are you doing about using the rear PTO? Did you use the OEM setup and power it the way it was from the factory?

 

Sorry I've left you & everyone else hanging, but this project got put on hold.  To answer your question Brian, I am dropping the rear PTO completely.  By dropping the rear PTO and putting the engine in like a big tractor, I can lose the belt drive and drive the hydro via universal jointed driveshaft.  This also allows me to drop the engine lower, avoiding any raising of the dash tower.  I am building as a plow tractor anyway, so rear PTO isn't important to me.  Plus then I'll be able to sell the entire PTO drive-line, which will fund a large portion of remaining costs like new front tires and paint.  I did some tinkering today, and after I get the crud showered off me, I'll post progress.


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#32 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2017 - 07:44 PM

Today I finally did some work on this repower project.   I had Teresa drive the 720 while I pulled it down to my new shop.  Just too hot down in the old shop.  My previous post explained how I am orienting the engine, flywheel to the rear

Dropping the engine down into the frame required some frame cutting.  Once finished, this will all be welded up and braced so it will be as strong as original.  The engine will actually make the area more rigid as the engine will be bolted solid up front and to the bell housing.  I also found that dropping the engine and sliding it rearward creates enough room up front so there is room for the battery and the radiator/electric fan!  I will be able to use the original fuel tank as well, so doing a little cutting/welding solves a host of issues.

 

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There is still almost a 2" rise from the hydro shaft to the crank center over 16" of length, but I've had that much angle before & all ran smooth, so I sure hope this runs smooth as well.  I can't drop the engine any farther, as the whole front end would have to be modified, and I do not want to get into that.

  I will definitely be adding power steering.  I already pulled the steering gearbox out, which was a chore to remove!  Looks like I will be able to use the OE universal joints off the steering column to hook to the steering valve down low.  Luckily I already have the valve and a steering cylinder.


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#33 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2017 - 11:59 PM

I also found that dropping the engine and sliding it rearward creates enough room up front so there is room for the battery and the radiator/electric fan!

 

That's going to make the project a lot easier. Seems like it was always a hassle to find a spot for the battery and fuel tank on my projects. Your tractor is larger than any of the ones I did and that's going to help also.


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#34 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2017 - 10:44 AM

I still may have to source a smaller air filter than either of the two I currently have, plus I haven't figured how to route the exhaust yet either.  I could put a stack, but would have to cut a slot in the side of the hood.  I'm thinking to see if I can route it downward, then have the muffler along the left frame, exiting toward the front.


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#35 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2017 - 12:30 PM

Nope, air filter assemblies on hand won't work.  Found a perfect one on ebay and it's paid for.


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#36 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2017 - 08:47 PM

Not much time for the project today after getting Dad's yard mowed.  I did manage to get the left rear plate welded in where the bell housing bolts to.  I found the original front motor mounts I was afraid I'd misplaced, so that will save me some work drilling new plates.  Everything is aligning well.


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#37 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2017 - 08:28 PM

Been doing a little more engine mount work.  Both rear bell housing mounting plates are welded in, plus the front mounts welded to the belly plate.  I will be welding in a piece to the front side of the front motor mounts to tie the mounts to the heavy front axle pivot framework.   Plus, at the rear mounts I will be boxing them in and the plate will be bolted to the engine side mount holes.

 As pics show, plenty room for the battery and radiator up front, and the OE fuel tank.  The new air filter assembly will fit nicely....just need to make a bracket for it.

 

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I've not figured out the exhaust yet, but there's a way, just gotta scratch my head a bit.


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#38 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2017 - 10:16 PM

just gotta scratch my head a bit.

 

Careful I went bald doing that. 

 

Your project is coming along nicely. Thanks for letting us follow along. 


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#39 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2017 - 10:21 PM

What's your plan for the old hydro cooler?
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#40 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2017 - 10:28 PM

What's your plan for the old hydro cooler?

You needing one Scott?  I'll be using a flat cooler next to the radiator. 



#41 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2017 - 04:15 AM

Nope, just curious.
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#42 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2017 - 03:14 PM

Been working on the engine mounts.  They are complete on the outside except for cleaning up the welds.  Once I pull the engine I have welds to finish on the inside of the mounts, and one added angle gusset for each inside mount as well.  It is coming along better and easier than I expected.

 

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I have all I need to build a drive shaft, minus a 3/4" keyed "weld-a-hub" which I'll have to turn in my lathe to fit into a #6 Weasler yoke to make it fit the hydro input shaft.  At work they toss damaged fertilizer buggy PTO shafts, as it's not worth the time in labor to repair, so I have a few #6 U-joints, plus sections of shafting. 

  As to an exhaust, unless I notch the hood, I'll have to use a U bent pipe to bring the exhaust out the open hood side.  That will require using a stator instead of an alternator, which is ok, but I prefer the alternator.  An alternator takes up the space a U pipe would need.  I'd have to wrap the U pipe where it passes behind the stator, or the stator would get fried from the heat. Jury still debating that one.


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#43 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2017 - 08:26 PM

For the exhaust I used a piece of square tubing to change the direction of the exhaust route.  A thick enough piece can be drilled and tapped to bolt right on your exhaust manifold than you can chose witch way you you like it to go.  So far so good with what I did.   You may gain the room you need for the hood.

SNC00351.jpg


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#44 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2017 - 08:31 PM

For the exhaust I used a piece of square tubing to change the direction of the exhaust route.  A thick enough piece can be drilled and tapped to bolt right on your exhaust manifold than you can chose witch way you you like it to go.  So far so good with what I did.   You may gain the room you need for the hood.

attachicon.gifSNC00351.jpg

My exhaust exits the top of the front of the manifold, but I could still use the square tubing mod, by welding 2 together to drop my exhaust to clear the hood.  There are also tapped bosses on the engine block side so I could add a brace to the tubing to lessen the load on the manifold.


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#45 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 08:34 AM

Great project and progress Daniel!  I'll have to get down there to see it one of these days  =]


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