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Gravely 12G problem

electrical

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#1 gwy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 02:36 PM

I have a 12 g professional and it has been melting the harness wires where they attach to the switch. It mainly burns the one to the Amp gauge and then wont start.  I replaced the harness and after running for a few hours it burnt that one off, Any ideas?



#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 03:18 PM

:welcometogttalk: By-pass the gauge. Possibly shorted


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#3 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 04:24 PM

Just guessing here but it sounds like the Stator and/or voltage regulator is shorted out.



#4 gwy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 05:19 PM

Thanks, for the replies. I tried by-passing the gauge . Perhaps the switch is damaged as it will not crank with the switch. I crossed the solenoid over and it will crank that way but wont start. I assume if the switch is damaged it will not start when crossed over at the solenoid ?   I looked at the parts diagram for this tractor and i did not find a part listed as a Stator or a voltage regulator?  The voltage idea makes some sense as I noticed the battery post was a little melted. Still stumped!



#5 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 05:35 PM

Welcome to GTT. You need to do abit of troubleshooting. The engine manual for your tractor should have a step by step guide to find the problem. Check our Manuals Section for the manual that you need. Use an ohm meter or a continuity tester. I think that you have a short but I don't know where. When you have questions, pics can help. We are all in this together. Good Luck, Rick


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#6 gwy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 06:11 PM

Rick, thanks for the suggestions. I looked in the manual as you suggested and I did get some ideas as to what it may be as to why it wont start but I found no information on why the wires would smoke and melt. Everything is hooked up correctly as it has been all along. It thought I had a solenoid problem as there were times that I got nothing from the switch but when I crossed the solenoid over it always started as long as the switch was in the on position . I put another solenoid on it and it still doesn't crank with the key. I kind of  gathered from that that the switch may not be working properly and is somehow no longer in the on position when the key is in the on position. I am stumped as to why the key would not turn it over using two different solenoids, but crossing either one over causes it to crank. One other thing the manual suggested as a problem was the time relay, can that be by-passed for testing purposes?



#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2016 - 05:37 AM

Sounds like you have a good challenge going there ! Did you find a wiring diagram for your tractor ? That would help you a lot . Do you have power at the ignition switch ? Sometimes they have fuses feeding the ignition switch .
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#8 gwy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2016 - 02:01 PM

 With your suggestions I have done some troubleshooting,I believe I have a combination of problems. First off I located a fuse for the ignition switch , it was blown, I replaced it. Thanks, ALC. (  I also learned in the process is if your lights will come on with the switch on then your fuse is not bad, good way to eliminate the fuse as a problem) The switch will now crank it over and it will start, but the switch wont crank it everytime, but if I mess with the wires at the relay the switch will kick in, and it will then start. relay must be going bad. So, I can start it and mow my yard but I am still concerned about the wires melting at the switch as I still dont know what caused that . Thanks to all, for the help.


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#9 Wh401 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2016 - 10:50 AM

I've picked up many a Gravely rider where either the wire plug onto the key switch or the voltage regulator is melted. Typically in my experience it's from corrosion or rust on the terminals, but a failing voltage regulator can cause the same issue. I had a bad regulator on an 816 that would simply over heat the wires if a battery was connected to the system, yikes. If it's a 12G then I think that model has the regulator mounted on the engine. By that period if should've been a small rectangular piece with 3 wires going into it. Try replacing that, as well as the key switch, since you say the engine sometimes will and won't crank. They can be replaced with generic Stens equivalents instead of the genuine Gravely part that is like the same piece, just more expensive. Most of the time the relay's don't go bad, but the key switch is a common failure, especially with age or moisture.

 

Rick







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