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Next project: Ripper Bar


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#1 Brucepts OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:18 AM

Up today on my list is a rear ripper bar for use on my sleeve hitch.

 

3 - 16" ripper shanks mounted on 12" centers (3 hole purchased from Agri-Supply) as far as I could tell the shanks are not hard in the hole area so I might drop in a few more lower holes for adjustment. I was trying to get the shortest shank I could find, might find I don't need more holes after it's test fit to the back of the tractor hitch.

 

shanks.jpg

 

Using a 2x4 - 1/4" wall tube to hold them, this morning (or sometime today with any luck the way my day is going) milling the slots, kinda "winging the design" as I go based loosely around some other designs I have seen on the net.

 

I'll post some pics as I go along . . .


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#2 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 09:27 AM

Sounds like you have your day figured out!

Looking forward to photos later today.



#3 Nxt2doc OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 10:39 AM

Been tossing a one bar setup around in my head for quite a while. How much tractor are you planning on using to pull this three bar design?


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#4 jpswift1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 11:52 AM

I'll be watching this because I plan on building a 4 tooth one to use on my 1855 Snapper/MF.  I have 340 lbs of wheel weights on it with Goodyear ag tires, so I'm hoping traction won't be an issue.  I found a few good links on guys that built some nice ripper bars on other sites too.


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#5 Brucepts OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 03:05 PM

An update on today's progress

 

Cutting the slots on the mill

 

slotting.jpg

 

The mill was nice for slotting but I'm to much of a machinist (+/- .005" is not required for this application LOL) and the slots had to be hand worked with the die grinder for the shanks to fit.

ripper.jpg

ripper-1.jpg

 

Mockup on the tractor, trying to figureout how far I wanted it to sit to give me the lift I "think" I will need.

ripper-2.jpg

 

Ran out of clean steel so have to run for some flat stock this coming week so here is where I am at the end of today's work.

ripper-3.jpg

 

This is going on a 14hp Cub 149, I'm not expecting it to rip deep, trying to do some landscaping work in my yard and need to work down some high spots, If it takes a couple of passes I'm ok with that. I can always drop down to one shank. I made it 3 so I would have one shank in the centerline of the tractor and the other two are 12" out so they are in the tire path. This allows me to make a pass and move over and straddle the previous cut . . . or so I think :D


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#6 jpswift1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 04:50 PM

Hey Brucepts,

 

You're a pretty talented fabricator I must say!  I'm very impressed......once you get it done and painted it'll look like a professionally made attachment at a fraction of the price.


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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 06:01 PM

Just be sure to allow for the arc the sleeve hitch makes to get them cutting in right!


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#8 Brucepts OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 06:29 PM

Just be sure to allow for the arc the sleeve hitch makes to get them cutting in right!

 

Any discussion on the correct angle they work at? I would like to make them work as efficient as possible so I'm "all ears" on some thoughts or point me to a link for some educational reading?

 

My sleeve hitch has multiple holes for pivot height as well as adjustment for various lift height.

 

Currently the rippers are in their lowest adjustment hole and I've decided I will not have to drill any lower holes.

 

 

Hey Brucepts,

 

You're a pretty talented fabricator I must say!  I'm very impressed......once you get it done and painted it'll look like a professionally made attachment at a fraction of the price.

 

Thanks, having the equipment helps that is for sure!

 

I was always told to make sure you have nice stuff when they have your estate auction/sale when you are dead and gone so I am just trying to hold my end of that up! LOL


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#9 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:03 PM

Looking good! :thumbs:  :thumbs:

 

Looks very well made. Only concern I would have is the long bar connecting all the points. One little bend and it will be a bear to remove. Don't ask how I know. Shorter pins will work just as well and be easier to adjust later. Just my $0.02. 


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#10 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:43 PM

I like it Bruce. Nice fab work. I have found in my limited experience that the angle makes a big difference. Having the tooth angled just enough to give a slight bite. I had built a tool bar and didn't get the angle very good. It pulled hard and didn't give the result I was hoping for.
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#11 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 08:53 PM

I like the idea but my concern would be the collapsing of the top front & the bottom back edges of your slots once the bottom of the rake is forced backward when digging. I'm thinking if you reinforced the front & back of your bar with some flat stock would even out your pressure along the whole lenth of the bar instead of just the slotted areas. Like you said a few shallow passages first to see how it does might prevent this. Keep us updated I enjoy watching homemade implements.
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#12 Brucepts OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 10:35 PM

Looking good! :thumbs:  :thumbs:

 

Looks very well made. Only concern I would have is the long bar connecting all the points. One little bend and it will be a bear to remove. Don't ask how I know. Shorter pins will work just as well and be easier to adjust later. Just my $0.02. 

 

Long pin was simply for fabrication to hold the shanks in place, notice the tie-wrap holding the long rod in place, wasn't sure how I was going to secure the pins in place yet. I only had two 5/8" pins so I grabbed a piece of 5/8" round off the rack.

 

I looked at more than a couple of commercial designs this evening for holding the shanks in place and have it somewhat figured out what I want to do now.


Edited by Brucepts, May 14, 2016 - 10:36 PM.

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#13 Brucepts OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 10:44 PM

I like the idea but my concern would be the collapsing of the top front & the bottom back edges of your slots once the bottom of the rake is forced backward when digging. I'm thinking if you reinforced the front & back of your bar with some flat stock would even out your pressure along the whole lenth of the bar instead of just the slotted areas. Like you said a few shallow passages first to see how it does might prevent this. Keep us updated I enjoy watching homemade implements.

 

I gave that some thought when thinking about the actual operation, I used 1/4" wall tube, noticed most of the commercial units use 5/16" tube and do not have any slot reinforcement as you suggest doing. So keeping your suggestion in mind I'll see how it works out after it gets used some and I can always weld some flat stock to those edges if I notice it wearing.

 

As always I hope this sparks some others to get motivated to build something and share it with us all, I always enjoy seeing what others build and share!


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#14 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 11:04 PM

I gave that some thought when thinking about the actual operation, I used 1/4" wall tube, noticed most of the commercial units use 5/16" tube and do not have any slot reinforcement as you suggest doing. So keeping your suggestion in mind I'll see how it works out after it gets used some and I can always weld some flat stock to those edges if I notice it wearing.

As always I hope this sparks some others to get motivated to build something and share it with us all, I always enjoy seeing what others build and share!

1/4" would make a big difference. I was looking this morning on the Web for different designs. I need to dig a ditch to run a 220v line from the house to a sub panel in the garage among a few other things. I like your design...simple but functional. My thoughts were a double bar similar to yours basically an implement tool bar for other tools like a disc to hill & a furrow for seeding etc. One thing I found out a few years ago is don't make a tool bar out of bed rails...way too springy lol.

Edited by Sawdust, May 14, 2016 - 11:29 PM.

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#15 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2016 - 11:29 PM

Sorry my mind is really working tonight. I just had an idea on pinning. Weld a small piece of angle iron to each side of your slots on the bar & drill a matching hole through both. This would allow your flat bars to slide up & down between the angle iron for height adjustments. Once the holes line up then slide a pin through all three holes then clip the pin. Just a late night thought...going to bed now.lol
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