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Bolens drive collar ?



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#1 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2016 - 08:55 AM

This is what I've been working on.It is a 1255 by serial number plate.IMG_20160428_180811.JPG IMG_20160428_180839.JPG

 

I originally cracked a small pc from the collar by using a three arm puller, 29 CHV advised not a good idea, which I should have seen before he said it BUT...

Well I switched over to this arrangement with oxy/acy torch and holes drilled to let PB down to the shaft and key.

 Remember I still have to get the lock pin out of the flimsy support collars too, that's what started this project...

 

So I'm thinking maybe start looking for this collar, hub, and pin.

I think the collar is #1716506, pin is 1713426, hub 1723583

I can turn a new pin, but another member mentioned to me that he had recently thrown away these very pieces, so if they are out there, I'm thinking time wise maybe just crack that baby off there and start over.


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#2 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2016 - 02:20 PM

I wouldn't trash the old parts unless you have good parts in hand to install.

 

Your puller set-up is the correct way to attack it, and I'm surprised the collar hasn't moved, UNLESS the keyway is worn inside the collar, and it is no longer aligned with the key in the shaft, allowing it to come off.

 

When you look at the end of the collar, do you see the key inside the keyway?


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#3 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2016 - 11:46 PM

These drive hubs are getting harder and harder to find, not only does the drive pin tab break off but they also frequently crack along the keyway so they are in high demand and command a good price when they do popup on ebay.

 

I have also struggled to remove one because of a cracked keyway slot which appeared to wedge the drive collar along the keyway due to the crack being larger on one end. 


Edited by Chubien, May 12, 2016 - 11:47 PM.

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#4 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2016 - 05:53 AM

I wouldn't trash the old parts unless you have good parts in hand to install.

 

Your puller set-up is the correct way to attack it, and I'm surprised the collar hasn't moved, UNLESS the keyway is worn inside the collar, and it is no longer aligned with the key in the shaft, allowing it to come off.

 

When you look at the end of the collar, do you see the key inside the keyway?

I can't believe it hasn't budged either.  The hub was oval-ed bad where the pin fits in it so this has had much hard use. Maybe you are on the right track with the key-way being goober-ed somehow as well. I can see the end and even thought about trying to drill down though it from the end but figured that would be a disaster, so I drilled a couple 1/8 holes down to where the key should be to let PB get in. Been heating hotter than I would like and then cool over night, then more Blaster as time and rain have permitted.

I know better than to pick-up a parts machine, cause then I'd have to try and save it too !

Since I found  a guy who had just scrapped these very parts a few weeks ago, I thought well maybe some body else out there is cleaning the shop...



#5 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2016 - 10:53 AM

I would suggest as a last resort that you heat it up good and hot and then pour cold water on it to cool it quickly - watch out for the steam that will be produced.  Let it sit for about five minutes and then try tightening the screw on the puller - may have to do this a few times but it should move.  The keyway on the one I did was in good shape - the hub was just rusted to the shaft - don't think it had ever been removed. 



#6 Brucepts OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2016 - 03:26 PM

Still looking for a drive collar? I didn't try getting this one off the shaft yet as it's buried in my shed right now but I have one that appears to be good won't know till it's off to see if it has any cracks. Looks like the pin boss is still attached.

Attached Thumbnails

  • drivecollar.jpg

Edited by Brucepts, May 16, 2016 - 03:27 PM.

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#7 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2016 - 05:26 PM

I would suggest as a last resort that you heat it up good and hot and then pour cold water on it to cool it quickly - watch out for the steam that will be produced.  Let it sit for about five minutes and then try tightening the screw on the puller - may have to do this a few times but it should move.  The keyway on the one I did was in good shape - the hub was just rusted to the shaft - don't think it had ever been removed. 

The water after heating frankly kinda scares me. I've done it in the past on old cars and truck projects and invariably something breaks (could just be the rain cloud that follows some of my projects) but I may still resort/try that. I'd feel safer with a replacement collar in hand, and that would just about insure that this one wouldn't break :rolling: Thanks for all your insights on this project.


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#8 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2016 - 08:08 PM

Attached are pictures of the axle with the hub removed - note the rusty areas on it beside the seal and where the keyway is as this is where the hub is sized to make contact with the axle - this is probably where the hub is seized to the axle shaft.  Not sure if you are aware but the middle part of the hub is sized larger than the axle as you can see in the pictures and the cross section picture of the axle so it is probably not stuck in that area.  I would suggest concentrating the heat on the hub area right next to the seal area and where the key seat is located in the axle - what I usually use to cool it is a plastic pop bottle with a twist off lid filled with cold water and drill a 3/16" hole in the lid - that way you can direct where the water is sprayed like a squirt gun when you squeeze the bottle - a dish soap detergent bottle filled with cold water would work as well. I have used this method a few times on cast and have not had the pieces I was working on break - maybe I have better luck than you but I doubt it.  I also used the zip gun with a blunt driver gently on the hub as well to vibrate it in the areas where it made contact with the axle - if you do this be gentle as you will mark the cast and could break the housing if you get aggressive.  Hope this helps.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Areas Where Hub Makes Contact.jpg
  • 2 Close Up Of Axle.jpg
  • 3 Hub Inside.jpg
  • 4 Hub With Ear Repaired.jpg
  • Cross Section Of Axle.jpg

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#9 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2016 - 08:42 PM

That is a lot of collar to pass off that axle. It's probably never been off. Be careful leaving pullers under pressure. Last year I had been soaking, & heating a brake disc on my MTD 990 leaving it under pressure for days. I just got done hanging my head over it spraying some more acetone/tranny fluid mix then walked away to do something else. It broke loose sounded like a rifle & flew up in the air. Just a few minutes sooner & I would have been pretty ugly. Be safe.

Edited by Sawdust, May 16, 2016 - 08:44 PM.

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#10 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2016 - 07:37 AM

Attached are pictures of the axle with the hub removed - note the rusty areas on it beside the seal and where the keyway is as this is where the hub is sized to make contact with the axle - this is probably where the hub is seized to the axle shaft.  Not sure if you are aware but the middle part of the hub is sized larger than the axle as you can see in the pictures and the cross section picture of the axle so it is probably not stuck in that area.  I would suggest concentrating the heat on the hub area right next to the seal area and where the key seat is located in the axle - what I usually use to cool it is a plastic pop bottle with a twist off lid filled with cold water and drill a 3/16" hole in the lid - that way you can direct where the water is sprayed like a squirt gun when you squeeze the bottle - a dish soap detergent bottle filled with cold water would work as well. I have used this method a few times on cast and have not had the pieces I was working on break - maybe I have better luck than you but I doubt it.  I also used the zip gun with a blunt driver gently on the hub as well to vibrate it in the areas where it made contact with the axle - if you do this be gentle as you will mark the cast and could break the housing if you get aggressive.  Hope this helps.

Excellent photos and explanation. Thanks again. It is hard to believe that only part of this is collar is in contact, but the drawing is clear. The bottle cap hole to spray is excellent, plan on getting a cheap blunt chisel for hammer gun at HF, mine are all sharp.

 

That is a lot of collar to pass off that axle. It's probably never been off. Be careful leaving pullers under pressure. Last year I had been soaking, & heating a brake disc on my MTD 990 leaving it under pressure for days. I just got done hanging my head over it spraying some more acetone/tranny fluid mix then walked away to do something else. It broke loose sounded like a rifle & flew up in the air. Just a few minutes sooner & I would have been pretty ugly. Be safe.

Yes I agree, any puller under this much pressure can be risky, thanks for the reminder, we need to be vigilant about safety !







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