noisy 214 transaxle
Posted May 09, 2011 - 07:37 PM
Posted May 10, 2011 - 06:19 AM
Posted May 10, 2011 - 12:40 PM
Is there an online manual that addresses this issue? I notice that GTT's 200 series manual is missing this section.
Would I have to remove the axle from the tractor? or can I access it from above somehow?
Posted May 10, 2011 - 04:36 PM
Posted May 10, 2011 - 10:46 PM
four blots for the clutch and brake pedals,
five bolts to to remove the rear end from the frame ( if you leave the rear hitch plate on the frame , if not 6 bolts to remove it),
three bolts for the pulley on the rear end (drive belt)
then a pin for the brake band or two bolts to remove the brake band from the rear end
I can get the rear end out in around 20 minutes on my tractors.
I have had to rebuild a around four rear end overs the years, got two rear end on a trade and I am checking them over getting them ready when needed. Got one a part now and some how it got water in it ( more water then oil in it). guest they left it out side with out putting the five bolts in that connects to the hitch plate. Got to look over the gears and bearings before I rebuild it.
- middleageddeere and mehs1970 have said thanks
Posted May 11, 2011 - 06:06 AM
Good summary of the removal process. I did it twice now, once on a 210 a few years ago that had a busted axle housing. And now with a 208 that had a broken shifter fork spring. With the 210 I kept the transmission on the hitch plate and removed the hitch plate. On the 208 I just dropped the transmission and kept the hitch plate on the frame. About the same effort either way.
- middleageddeere and lyall have said thanks
Posted May 13, 2011 - 08:10 PM
Posted May 13, 2011 - 08:14 PM
Posted May 13, 2011 - 10:44 PM
you are right I did forget the idler spring, but I was doing it from memory
Can't remember every thing (getting old)
Thanks for addition and reminding me
Posted May 14, 2011 - 08:47 AM
Posted August 08, 2011 - 08:01 PM
Posted August 09, 2011 - 06:25 AM
Well, now, it doesn't wanna go into 1st, 2nd or reverse. I'm running it in 3rd and 4th. What do you think? Am I hurting it if I keep running it like that?
Yes, the more you drive it, the more damage you're doing to the gears. Gears are expensive. You should have split the transmission back in May when you first posted. Go over to wfm and you will find several topics on splitting the transmission case and transmission repair.
For starters, download the Peerless transmission manual, you will find it in the transmissions manual section here. Then drop the transmission from the tractor and then split the case. Be sure you have the side that houses the gear shift up - if you don't when you remove the top half, all the gears will fall out. Take pictures as you go, follow the manual, access the damage. Like I said, there is a lot of topics on wfm covering this repair. I just did it to a 208 back in May.
Posted August 09, 2011 - 08:24 AM
Are the transmissions/axles hard to get apart. I have had a lot of trouble getting the axle hubs and pulleys off of a Peerless rear end in the past. It was much more work than doing the actual repairs. It was a 1250 I think. Not as heavy a unit as the ones in the 200's
Posted August 09, 2011 - 12:26 PM
Dropping the transmission is relatively easy. The axle hubs may be a problem getting off the axles. Over time they rust and can form an almost permanent bond to the axle. Soaking in PB Blaster or other penetrate is a good idea. Using heat wouldn't hurt - but you will have to replace any seals, which you should anyways. Having a puller will help a lot. Once the hub is off the rest is relatively easy. Taking before pictures so you know where the gears go and how the shifter forks are located in a must.
Posted August 27, 2011 - 01:51 PM
Yes, I've downloaded the manual. I worked on it yesterday. Now I'm ready to finally drop the transaxle.
I am a bit intimidated. I may be able to get a 212 for parts. That might be the easier way to go, if it is compatible with my 214 (Peerless 2333).
Since the manual on this site is missing the transaxle section, I will ask the question here. I notice there are three plugs on the unit: lower front, higher front and top. The top is only accessible when the fender has been removed. Should the grease come to the level of the top plug or the front plug?
Thanks again for your help.