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Husky transmission trouble anyone?


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#1 camdigger ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 12:49 PM

I have a Husvarna 600 CRT rear tine tiller. It got left out in the rain once. Other than that, it has been shedded its whole life. The transmission locked up solid. No shift, no wheel or tine rotation. Needed a complete tear down to remedy - down to the last shaft and bearing in the transmission. It did happen. I have pictures.....


Edited by camdigger, May 09, 2016 - 12:53 PM.

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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:00 PM

OK, what caused it? Was something worn? Had something broken? Is it poorly built? I've had worn bearings and gears cause a trany to lockup. Good Luck, Rick



#3 camdigger ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 10:44 PM

The rear tine tillers usually have a transmission made up of two stamped sheet metal halves that mate in a vertical plane. Any water that falls on top runs down the crack between the halves. If it doesn't find a break in the gasket and run into the tranny, it runs off the end and falls harmlessly to the ground. The input shaft and shifter set up is on the top of the tranny. All are relatively close fitting gears and splines. A little rust from the water incursion and presto, it locks up solid.


I'll try to post up a few pics and give more detail in the morning.


Edited by camdigger, May 09, 2016 - 12:53 PM.


#4 camdigger ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 11:40 AM

Well, I am at my other computer (the one with the images).

As mentioned above the Husqvarna tiller transmission locked up solid.  No Shift, no turn.

 

The transmission case forms the frame of the little machine and absolutely everything is hung off the transmission often with bolts through both halves.  This means to get a glimpse inside the transmission, you have to strip the machine down.  .

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Ha! a perfect opportunity to give mini-me a chance to see something come apart and hopefully, back together....When we got the transmission stripped down, we split the case.  The first thing that happened was about 3 cups of water drained out of the case, into my shoe, and across the floor.  The reason for all the water should be obvious from the picture - the gasket between the halves was in at least a half dozen pieces....  The case has no drain as the original design was meant to be packed with grease.

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5 pounds of rags and a can of WD40 later and we had all the parts cleaned up. The first thing I noticed was the shifter detent rod was seized with rust.  

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The shifter slides up and down the detented shaft to move the selector gear between reverse, neutral, forward, and forward with tine drive.  The spline shaft that the selector gear rides on was also rusted up enough that the gear wouldn't slide.  After much cleaning and mumbling, I got the selector system cleaned up and free.  The detent has a little spring loaded ball in the slider block.  That too was rusted solid. 


Edited by camdigger, May 09, 2016 - 12:46 PM.


#5 camdigger ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 12:11 PM

Getting the detent shaft out free, removed, and clean was only half the battle.  Once the bits were all cleaned up I couldn't get the shaft back into position past the ball.  The selector shaft has a sharp shoulder on it the ball refused to climb over.  After several attempts to put the shaft through the block, I resorted to extraordinary means......  I have seen guides used to put threaded and stepped shafts through hydraulic seals on stuff like cylinders and the like, so....

 

I chucked up a piece of scrap rod in the lathe and made a guide to push that stupid ball back so I could put the shaft in.  The guide fits over the end of the shaft and is tapered enough on the outside, that it easily pushes the ball back....

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A little game of what goes where and we got the transmission back together.  First, we put all the shafts gears, sprockets, and chains in the lower half of the case.  I was a bit concerned with trying to figure out which gear went where, but all the selected gears have the edges of the teeth rounded to make the selector move easier.  We put all the rounded edges the same way in the stack and it all looked right, so we carried on. 

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Before we could put the top half of the case on, we had to do something about the gasket.  Husqvarna in Central Alberta has the worst dealer network of any equipment I've ever known.  None are dedicated Husky dealers.  All have other product lines, most of which are seasonal and in highest demand at the same time, so by the time you are servicing your tiller, the quad guys are dragging their stuff out of storage, spring yard work is in full swing so all the garden equipment is coming out of storage and, and, and....  I've waited over a week for a call back on a part, much less getting one ordered.  I got a chainsaw serviced a few years ago.  When I took it back to get an issue with the service resolved, it sat on a bench in their shop over 2 months before I finally picked it up, put it in a box, and gave it away.  Long sad tale of woe aside, I knew ordering a new gasket or any other parts was hopeless if I wanted to get the garden tilled this season.  Putting the transmission back together with the old gasket was impossible, so what to do?  I watched my Dad make gaskets from cereal boxes as a kid, so I had the basics.  I also knew that gasket material was available in sheets.  I went into the big city of Red Deer and searched out an industrial supply house that stocked sheets of gasket material.  I tried an automotive supply, but all they had was 12" x 12" sheets and I needed 16" x 10".  The industrial guys had 36" wide rolls of assorted material from paper to 3/16" cork gaskets.  I got a 36" x 16" piece of material (I wanted some extra in case I slipped with a knife or messed up the first attempt.  Sadly, I didn't get any pictures of the gasket making process, but after anchoring it with a couple bolts, we marked the holes with a ball peen hammer and laid the scraps of the old gasket out and traced it with a carpenter's pencil.  Between scissors and a sharp snap blade utility knife we managed to create a reasonable copy of the original gasket.  You can see the new gasket in the image below.

 

Next I got mini me to pack the case with 2 tubes of grease.  He doesn't generally like to get real greasy, so I found him some manly blue rubber gloves.

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Putting the top half of the case back on was a matter of sliding the assorted shafts through the right holes and sliding the halves together.  At least the shafts were different lengths so there was only one at a time to line up as the halves got closer together. 


Edited by camdigger, May 09, 2016 - 12:14 PM.


#6 camdigger ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 12:41 PM

Once we got it all back together, we turned the shafts and, sure enough, it shifted fine and the output shafts turned at what seemed like all the right times for the selector position.

 

Once we got the transmission back together, we put all the stuff we took off back together.

 

Sadly the machine had sat so long, it got some condensation in the gas tank.  I drained the gas tank and serviced the carb and tried again.  You can see what looks like water in the bottom of the pan I drained it all into.

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 Took me a few times to get it clean enough to run.  On one trip to the shop, I managed to lose the gasket for the bolt that holds the carb bowl on.

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This tiller is powered by a 6 hp Brigs and Stratton I/C Intek engine.  Briggs engines are very common, so a carb kit should be readily available, right?  WRONG!  Another afternoon chasing around Red Deer dealers got me to a point where I had one on order, but I couldn't find one in town.  I've complained about Husky dealers before, but I can't believe what went on this time...  The Husky Lawn and Garden dealer parts staff in Red Deer couldn't even open the web page to look up the parts.  They took my cell number and called me 3 hours later with pricing and the news that I'd have to order and wait a week or 10 days for a carb kit.

 

I had some gasket material and some ideas....  Washer gaskets are just two circles of different sizes punched out on the same center, so.....  Back to the lathe.  I gathered up some more scraps of rod and made some gasket punches.

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The punches are just mild steel rod left soft.  All I had to do was cut one circle each, so more effort wasn't warranted.  I put the gasket material left over from making the transmission gasket on a scrap piece of soft pegboard for a backing board and punched out the larger circle (0.600").  I then put the cutout on the backing board and centered the smaller punch on it by eye and cut the inside hole (0.370").  I had some trouble getting the slug out of the smaller punch, so I took it back to the lathe and drilled a through hole for an ejector pin.  The ejector is just a 1/8" welding rod I knocked the flux off of for a different project.

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Anyway the gasket seemed to work fine.  There is no sign of fuel leaking around the bolt.

After all this aggravation, the tiller finally did start. it starts great, but runs like it is starving for fuel.  I think the rubber seat in the carb has swollen a bit from the carb cleaner I had to use to get all the crap out of the carb.  The tiller did run just well enough to finally get the Mrs' garden plot tilled for the first time in 5 years.  I even got to introduce mini me to rototiller operation.

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I'm hoping the fuel starving issue will be resolved when I finally get the carb kit I ordered installed.  It was ordered a week ago, so should be here this week, maybe.  I have other, more pressing stuff on the list, so no telling exactly when this will rise to the top again.

 

 

 


Edited by camdigger, May 09, 2016 - 12:44 PM.


#7 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 07:25 PM

Good job.  You cannot own this junk unless you have a lathe and Bridgeport.

 

Cliff






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