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#1 farmer john OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2016 - 10:19 PM

Hi Everyone, Today was the first day I felt up to cutting the lawn, if I left it a few more days I'd have to say I was haying ( no choice really, they are calling for rain and its pretty long over the septic bed)  much to my surprise the my 44 inch walk behind started first pull , I started flying thru the grass but my back gave out in 15 minutes so I pulled out the boaster cables and started up my toro 269h, all was fine on the flats but as soon as I hit the hills it wont go up them, even a small grade, I will have to look at it tomorrow, I think I have to pull the pan off to check the hydraulic levels any thoughts or experiences would be helpful as I am very limited mobility wise at the present time and the less time bent over the better, thanks for reading, john

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#2 MH81 ONLINE  


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Posted May 06, 2016 - 10:47 PM

There is probably a tow valve on that unit. I would check it to make sure it's good and closed. Verify belts not slipping or axle key shear causing slipping.
As do the oil, you might consider doing a change if the unit has a few hours on it.
I found this online.

purchased 4 quarts of Catrol syntec (100% synthetic) on sale. Two quarts of 5-50 and two quarts of 10-30. They were low on stock 5-50 I figured it would not make that much diff to mix them.

1. Remove two drain plugs. I removed the connector plug first. Oil poured out into my pan just like changing oil for a car. Then I removed the oil drain plug. I would say less than a quart came out the drain plug, most came out the connector plug

2. Inspected the O rings on the connector plug and rubber washer for oil plug. Both looked good so I did not replace them.

3. Put both oil bolts back in and tightened. (did not use torque wrench)

4. Poured new oil in the front oil fill cup. This is a little slow as it only holds 1/2 quart and it fills the tranny sort of slow. It took like 20 min to get 3.5 quarts back in. If I removed the hose that connects to the transmission topside I could have poured it in directly and faster.

5. Jacked up rear of Tractor and started it on low-med idle.

6. While running and jacked up I pushed the forward pedal and then the rear direction pedal. Nothing happened. It took like 5 minutes of doing that before the transmission pump primed. Then they started to move.

7. Took it off the jack and drove it, it took about another minute of slow creeping for the tranny to engage.

You might have to jump the seat safety switch to start mover without a driver in the seat.

The old oil had 600 hours on it or 15 years of mowing. It was coffee colored but contained no gunk or sludge. The new oil was yellow honey colored.

I did not have any issues with the transmission but I will say that with the new oil its much more responsive. It feels tighter like a new tractor. Takes off faster. Will go up a steep hill from a dead stop in reverse or forward.

Its also quieter than before, maybe better than when new. I think the original oil was not synthetic.

I found a Toro and tuff torque manuals online. They say that the hydrostatic fluid should be changed every 200 hours.

Also it says using synthetic oil will lower operating temps 18 degrees F.

Also found mention of raising the front end a good bit when refilling to allow for easier oil flow.

Good luck.
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#3 crittersf1 OFFLINE  


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Posted May 07, 2016 - 06:46 AM

Check belt and fluid level first