Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Stupid Rear Wheel Hubs


  • Please log in to reply
26 replies to this topic

#1 gearheadmike OFFLINE  

gearheadmike
  • Member
  • Member No: 34310
  • 12 Thanks
  • 16 posts
  • Location: West Chazy Ny

Posted May 06, 2016 - 08:26 PM

Ok so i want to replace the axle seals on my sears suburban 12 and i attempted to pull the hub off and........Fail!= broke it. I removed the 3 set screws and sprayed the crap out of it with penetrating oil and when i put the puller on it it snapped part of the cast iron hub.  Is there any helpful hints out there to get these off? 

I had to cut along the keyway on the hub with a cut off wheel then a chisel to split the hun in half to get it off   :wallbanging:



#2 Leonard VanCamp ONLINE  

Leonard VanCamp
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62684
  • 235 Thanks
  • 196 posts
  • Location: Mount Bethel PA

Posted May 06, 2016 - 08:36 PM

A little heat might help, I've used a small plumbing torch from time to time, just focus the heat all over the hub.
  • boyscout862 and Sawdust have said thanks

#3 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

jpackard56

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7225
  • 1,768 Thanks
  • 1,407 posts
  • Location: S.E. Ohio

Posted May 06, 2016 - 08:43 PM

I feel you pain ! Only mine is on a Bolens....I've had this set up for nearly two weeks now and so far "bumpkiss" I've saturated it in P. B. Blaster and heated it with torch to way hotter than I would like 2 times between rain storms and still nothing :wallbanging:n Finally I drilled small holes to let Blaster soak into key area on shaft, still nothing...

 

So I will be watching any responses you get very closely.

 

IMG_20160428_180811.JPG

IMG_20160428_180839.JPG


  • boyscout862 and WNYTractorTinkerer have said thanks

#4 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted May 06, 2016 - 09:00 PM

Remember, that applying heat to anything seized on a shaft also heats what it's seized to. When I was working in a machine shop years ago, we would heat the part, and chill the shaft with ice to keep it from expanding.

If that don't work, you might have to cut it off.

Also look at the geometry of your pulling device to make sure it isn't forcing a pinch on the shaft from the forces on the hub.
  • boyscout862 and Sawdust have said thanks

#5 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 2,304 Thanks
  • 2,336 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted May 06, 2016 - 09:15 PM

You Sub 12 have Split hubs like my SS14? Should have a 9/16 bolt going though it.Take the bolt out and put a piece 1" of pipe or a large old deep well socket over the end of the and drive in ON an inch or so.

They spray it down with PB Blaster and let it soak in real good.It Should pull right off then.

If not put a small metal chisel where the hub split is and give it a couple taps with a hammer.Not hard hits just enough to wedge the chisel or old flat tip screw driver in the split.The tap the back side of the hub with a hammer and it should come right off.

 

I don't like using pullers on Cast Iron Hubs or Pulleys.Had to many break on me especially when using a 2 jaw puller.A good 3 jaw puller isn't as bad but you can still break stuff with them.


  • Sawdust said thank you

#6 gearheadmike OFFLINE  

gearheadmike
  • Member
  • Member No: 34310
  • 12 Thanks
  • 16 posts
  • Location: West Chazy Ny

Posted May 06, 2016 - 09:25 PM

there a slide on hub  no split in them  the puller i used was a 2 jaw  im going to borrow a 3 jaw tomorrow  and try it 



#7 Phluphy OFFLINE  

Phluphy
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 70148
  • 308 Thanks
  • 401 posts
  • Location: Central Gulf Coast Florida

Posted May 06, 2016 - 09:28 PM

Old phart's 2 cents worth: Bit late for you to do it now but, when I encountered the same problem on my Sears GT, I just oiled the heck out of it, shifted from forward to reverse popping the clutch each time, bit of oil, tap with a small hammer, repeat, it broke loose without any other effort. Not using high rpm's to do it. Just enough to rock it without causing transmission stress.

Would be very reluctant to put a puller on cast iron hub flanges. 

Just noticed, you have set screws, never dealt with a hub having set screws, except where the key was.

Patience, small hammer, PB or oil, and tap-tap.


  • boyscout862 and Sawdust have said thanks

#8 gearheadmike OFFLINE  

gearheadmike
  • Member
  • Member No: 34310
  • 12 Thanks
  • 16 posts
  • Location: West Chazy Ny

Posted May 06, 2016 - 09:40 PM

the tractor is all apart the rear end is in my shop on bench im more worried about finding another set of  1'' bore hubs to put back on it that isn't going to brake the bank


  • Sawdust said thank you

#9 Eric OFFLINE  

Eric
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 41778
  • 989 Thanks
  • 673 posts
  • Location: Wisconsin

Posted May 06, 2016 - 10:10 PM

Are you sure the set screws were not hiding a second corroded set screw in the hole? second an old military trick if you have access to a large ultrasonic bath try fifty fifty mix of atf and acetone which is far better than pb blaster, this with the ultrasonic bath will eat any corrosion away in the hub. This would always work for us, even sometimes in a parts washer to keep the fluid moving and not just static helps to get fresh material in and rust out.
  • WNYTractorTinkerer and Sawdust have said thanks

#10 gearheadmike OFFLINE  

gearheadmike
  • Member
  • Member No: 34310
  • 12 Thanks
  • 16 posts
  • Location: West Chazy Ny

Posted May 06, 2016 - 10:13 PM

i got no way of soaking it and no more set screws at all in it ill get pics of the hub in the am lol 



#11 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,513 Thanks
  • 5,031 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted May 06, 2016 - 10:39 PM

Using a bearing puller instead of a three jaw puller spreads the pressure out and is less likely to break something. Also you can close it up next to the axle instead of pulling on the outside of the hub.

5863317-23.jpg


Edited by Cvans, May 06, 2016 - 10:40 PM.

  • WHdbJD, boyscout862, Sawdust and 1 other said thanks

#12 Auburn David OFFLINE  

Auburn David
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 61865
  • 2,754 Thanks
  • 1,962 posts
  • Location: Alabama

Posted May 06, 2016 - 10:55 PM

heat the hub..and waste a can of 134a on the axle.


  • Gtractor and WNYTractorTinkerer have said thanks

#13 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 2,304 Thanks
  • 2,336 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted May 06, 2016 - 11:41 PM

I got 2 hubs off of my SS14 I'll get rid of for $20 + shipping.Better off Flat rate shipping them in a $10 flat rate box because there so heavy.

 

 

I'll take some Pics of them in the morning.

 

I think they considered the Split hubs to be an adjustable hub.Pretty sure mine are Split hubs but I'll get ya some pics.

 

Edit:

Wait a minute my old transaxle does have the full sized hubs.Found a pic of it when I pulled out.

 

Here it is.The diff gears are really loud in it (had about a gallon of water in it when I got it) but the hubs are good.I know I can get the 1 hub off no problem I'll see if I can get them both off and let ya know.

 

post-2135-0-15532800-1444692681.jpg

 

Must of been thinking of my 66 sub 12 I know it has split hubs. :wallbanging:


Edited by EricFromPa, May 07, 2016 - 12:06 AM.

  • Sawdust said thank you

#14 gearheadmike OFFLINE  

gearheadmike
  • Member
  • Member No: 34310
  • 12 Thanks
  • 16 posts
  • Location: West Chazy Ny

Posted May 06, 2016 - 11:57 PM

I got 2 hubs off of my SS14 I'll get rid of for $20 + shipping.Better off Flat rate shipping them in a $10 flat rate box because there so heavy.

 

 

I'll take some Pics of them in the morning.

 

I think they considered the Split hubs to be an adjustable hub.Pretty sure mine are Split hubs but I'll get ya some pics.

ok sounds good let me know thanks



#15 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 2,304 Thanks
  • 2,336 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted May 07, 2016 - 12:22 AM

If the hub is junk use a Reciprocating Saw with a good fine tooth metal blade and cut a nice deep slot in it the whole length of the hub down to the Key and another cut on the other side and put a chisel in the cut and whack it with a 3-5lb sledge and it will split in 1/2 and fall off with a couple good hits.

 

That's how I remove stubborn push mower blade adapters.Usually takes 5 minutes to get them cut and split off.Saves alot of time and aggravation.


  • Sawdust said thank you




Top