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Motor mount mess on 314 - Gahhhh!!


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#1 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:09 AM

I finally got time to try to install the right rear motor mount on the 314. I knew it was busted but I didn't know the half of it. It appears that at some point a mechanical genius welded the mount to the frame - yes, I said welded. Of course the rubber mount melted from the heat. The weld is covering the rivet on one end of the mount. When I removed the engine bracket bolt the mount came off . The steel part of the mount was broken into 2 pieces. The end that is welded is still on the tractor. The worst part is that it looks like they may have ground away some of the frame in order to weld the mount in. I can't tell for sure until I have a closer look. I think I need to remove the engine or at least try to move it forward in order to work on this mess. I might have time to look at it tonight. I'll try to get some pictures. I may need some advise on this one.

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:14 AM

Brian, Keep us posted on what you find.

#3 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:22 AM

I would pull the motor completely out just to make life a little easier on yourself and so you have the room to fix it right. If they cut in to the frame to weld you should be able to fill it back in with weld and grind it smooth.

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:22 AM

Brian, Keep us posted on what you find.


Thanks Brian. I see you have a lot of 140's. I think the frame on a 314 is very similiar. Are you familiar with the motor mounts on these machines?

#5 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:25 AM

Yes, Do you need a picture of how the mounts look on the 140? I will take a couple and post them here for you.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:28 AM

I would pull the motor completely out just to make life a little easier on yourself and so you have the room to fix it right. If they cut in to the frame to weld you should be able to fill it back in with weld and grind it smooth.


Thanks george. I don't weld (sure wish I did) but I have a professional welder who lives nearby and does jobs for me. I hope it dosen't come to that but it looks like the metal part of the mount that is left is level with the frame rail. Re: removing the engine - There is a metal eye on the top of the K321. Is that meant for hoisting the engine? You could put a small clevis through the hole and use it as a hoist point. I don't think I could lift a 321 out of the frame.

#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:28 AM

Brian, I don't know what I was thinking, but the 140 uses a solid mount through the oil pan. The 300, 317 and 316 Series 1 uses the same style frame and mounts


downsized_0509111026.jpg

Edited by Texas Deere and Horse, May 09, 2011 - 10:31 AM.
Added picture

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#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:32 AM

Yes, Do you need a picture of how the mounts look on the 140? I will take a couple and post them here for you.

Thanks, It is the right rear one that is a mess. The way they are mounted leaves a bare minimum of frame metal under the mount. Does a 140 use the same bracket system. I assume the 14hp is a K321 like the 314 is. The 140 diagrams are not on JDparts.com

#9 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:32 AM

Yes, That eye is to lift the engine with.

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:34 AM

Brian, I don't know what I was thinking, but the 140 uses a solid mount through the oil pan. The 300, 317 and 316 Series 1 uses the same style frame and mounts


[ATTACH=CONFIG]14459[/ATTACH]


Thanks anyway. I wasn't sure, as the 140 info. isn't on JDparts. I'll post some pics. tonight if I have time.

#11 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 06:16 PM

Here are some pictures of the mount/frame area. It's hard to see with the mounting bracket still in place. I have got the engine unbolted, I just need to disconnect fuel line, throttle and choke and it should be ready to move.
When I was unbolting the drive shaft I discovered another problem. The shaft is loose in the coupler at the engine end. I could turn it maybe 30 Degrees without too much force. According to the parts diagram it looks like there should be a key in there. It must be stripped or broken. I am surprised that the hydro was working at all. I drove it a bit, stopping on steep hills to test it and it seemed strong? I'll have to pull the shaft completely now. This damage may be due to the engine vibrating with the broken mount, who knows. At least I can deal with it now while the engine is out rather than have it break down a week after it's back together. This is turning into a pretty major refit. I think I will get my electrolysis tank running and clean and paint some parts while the other work is going on.
Motor Mount 1.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • Motor Mount 3.jpg
  • Motor Mount 2.jpg


#12 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 07:30 PM

With me not being familiar with the way the frames are on the 314's it is hard to put the bracket in perspective of how it should be. Would love to see more pics once you get the motor out from a couple different angles. Should definitely be fixable and I think you are taking the right approach by fixing the stuff the right way while everything is apart.

#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2011 - 06:56 PM

I got the motor out. I had to build a hoist out of what I had on hand - A floor jack, 2x4's and some bolts. It worked fine. It is too late to take pictures tonight. The drive shaft coupler side is stripped out on the engine side. On the hydro end there is a lot of play in the groove pin that goes through the coupler and input shaft. I'm starting to think that this tractor has a lot of hours on it and I may have bought a money pit. I'm thinking that groove pin will be a misery to get out.

#14 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2011 - 08:12 PM

Brian, You will need a new end for the drive shaft, engine end. If the hydro end isn't worn too badly, you can re drill the holes for the next size pin. Be sure you drill them together to make sure they are in alignment..
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#15 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2011 - 05:19 AM

Brian, You will need a new end for the drive shaft, engine end. If the hydro end isn't worn too badly, you can re drill the holes for the next size pin. Be sure you drill them together to make sure they are in alignment..




Here are some pictures of the damage and of my DIY engine hoist (Don't laugh too hard!) . The hoist worked fine for a 120lb engine but I wouldn't trust it for much more.
Yes, I need a new end -About 25$ and still available. I am giving the parts guy at my dealership a workout! In the pictures you can see the wear on the hydro end.
I am having trouble seeing how the shaft and couplers are supposed to work. Is the rear coupler at the hydro supposed to act as a one axis universal joint with the pin allowing the shaft some free movement or is it supposed to be a tight fit? The front shaft end just has a key with no set screws. Is that to allow some front to back movement? I have had no experience with these so I am wondering if the pin can be removed without damaging the hydro shaft. The only groove pins I've dealt with have needed a special pin press for removal and replacement. If you have ever dealt with one of these I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks Again

Attached Thumbnails

  • shaft coupler1.jpg
  • Frame at mount2.jpg
  • frame at mount1.jpg
  • Hoist.jpg
  • Grassy.jpg
  • Shaft hydro end.jpg

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