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Soon my Precious....Sooooon


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#121 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2017 - 04:06 PM

Thanks for the kind words or encouragement - I was beginning to wonder if I had met my match but I think things are looking up.

 

Got the pads welded on and so far I am very happy with the results as there is very little distortion thanks to some tips from Kevin - it is not perfect but it is definitely better than the first pan.  Did some welds on the inside that should be lots strong and also welded all around the outer edges of the pads and then I sanded the welds and they cleaned up nicely in my humble opinion.  Then I marked out the hole locations, centred punched them and then drilled pilot holes - pictures attached.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 2 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 3 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 4 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 5 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 6 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 7 Pads Welded.jpg
  • 8 Bottom Side.jpg
  • 9 Bottom Side.jpg
  • 10 Bottom Side.jpg
  • 11 Edge Bent Up.jpg
  • 12 Edge Bent Up.jpg
  • 13 Straightedge On Bottom.jpg
  • 14 Straightedge On Bottom.jpg
  • 15 Bottom View.jpg
  • 16 Pilot Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 17 On Top Of Original Pan.jpg
  • 18 On Top Of Original Pan.jpg
  • 19 On Top Of Original Pan.jpg
  • 20 Old Versus New.jpg
  • 21 Old Versus New.jpg

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#122 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2017 - 04:15 PM

That is looking really good! 

 

I also liked version 1.0 but 2.0 looks even better!


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#123 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 03:21 PM

Thanks for the kind words - I think version 2.0 is a keeper.

 

Got the holes drilled out, supports and nuts threaded and welded in and the threads chased.  Then I started cutting the corners of the outer lip from the original pan using the die grinder and a cut off blade and called it a day.  Will use the saws all on the straight sections.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Corners Cut With Die Grinder.jpg
  • 2 Edge Cutting Technology.jpg
  • 3 Edge Cutting Technology.jpg
  • 4 Edge Cutting Technology.jpg
  • 5 Edge Cutting Technology.jpg
  • 6 Nuts Welded And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 7 Nuts Welded And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 8 Nuts Welded And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 9 Nuts Welded And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 10 Nuts Welded And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 11 Nuts Welded And Holes Drilled.jpg

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#124 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 05:16 PM

Lookin fantastic!
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#125 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 05:39 PM

That takes a lot of time and patience!  Great work to say the least!   :thumbs:


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#126 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 06:18 PM

Looks a lot better than the old one. 


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#127 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 03:14 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Got the outer lip cut off, test fitted and welded onto the new pan section.  Got the padding out for a test fit, removed the rust scale from the bottom of it with the die grinder and did a test fit - things looked good to me.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cutting The Lip Off.jpg
  • 2 Lip Cut Off.jpg
  • 3 Lip Cut Off.jpg
  • 4 Very Rusty Old Pan.jpg
  • 5 Test Fitting The Lip.jpg
  • 6 Tacked In Place.jpg
  • 7 Tacked In Place.jpg
  • 8 Lip Welded.jpg
  • 9 Lip Welded.jpg
  • 10 From The SIde.jpg
  • 11 Bottom Side.jpg
  • 12 Bottom Side.jpg
  • 13 Rust Scale On Padding.jpg
  • 14 Rust Scale Removed From Padding.jpg
  • 15 Rust Scale Removed From Padding.jpg
  • 16 Test Fit Of Padding On Pan.jpg
  • 17 Test Fit Of Padding On Pan.jpg
  • 18 Test Fit Of Padding On Pan.jpg
  • 19 Test Fit Of Padding On Pan.jpg
  • 20 Test Fit Of Padding.jpg

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#128 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 03:18 PM

Got the welds cleaned up a bit on the inside and got them ground and sanded on the outside.  Took some close up pictures around the edge that will show on the bottom.  I am very happy with it and gave it my "stamp of approval" - it may make someone wonder what the story is on the seat in another fourty years.  :D

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 2 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 3 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 4 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 5 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 6 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 7 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 8 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 9 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 10 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 11 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 12 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 13 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 14 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 15 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 1 Autograph.jpg
  • 2 Autograph.jpg

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#129 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 03:41 PM

It's really going to be nice, I like the "29" and am very impressed with your repair, amazed I should say. Serious work Stew ,serious skills.
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#130 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 06:47 PM

A few updates on this end. The Tru-Powers weighed in 35 lbs. heavier than the Ancla's both being filled with Rimguard so that helps offset the weight reduction of 45+ lbs of going with OEM Bolens 12" weight. Net loss approximately 20 lbs over all. Those 100 lb combine weights are a bear to get on and off, and you couldn't access the valve stem . If you reverse the wheels so the valve stem is accessible you lose the lip the wheel weights sets in making the installation of the big boys even more difficult. This was the biggest factor of the switch.
I didn't like the temp. gauge's excess capillary tube so I found a SW that I think looks better, I've matched the amp gauge to it.
The front wheel weights originally had a kit with barrel nuts or rod couplings and a corresponding bolt to attach them, they to could be difficult to line up, I used a spare wheel and hub to mock up for measurements, not having mounting kits for them I ordered some SS 1/2"-20 hardware from McMaster-Carr, studs sticking out will allow just sliding the weight on much easier and saves the fresh paint on the wheels from getting dinged up. I chose acorn nuts to fasten giving it a cleaner look.
Blasting the wheel weights and the seat skeleton for paint, the way Stew is advancing and conquering on the seat I better get rolling. Just some pics,
My daughter made me a Lego tractor for motivation and we looked out the back deck and saw some turkeys.

Attached Thumbnails

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  • IMG_20170107_1527485_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170107_1519298_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20161212_1659181_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20161212_1659365_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170319_1826279_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170319_1805090_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170319_1821200_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170319_1822388_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170319_1826138_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20170303_1812497_rewind_kindlephoto-37071215.jpg
  • IMG_20170318_1223025_rewind.jpg

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, March 19, 2017 - 07:29 PM.

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#131 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 07:50 PM

Looks like she's going to follow in her Dad's foot steps
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#132 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2017 - 04:39 PM

Had a good look at the back pan for the seat and while it is in better shape than the original lower pan was it has some rust damage along the lower edge and has several pinholes in the main section of the back as you can see by the arrows in the first picture.  There are also areas rusted out in the corners around the outer lip but I think I can repair them and cut the outer lip off the same as I did with the lower pan.  I thought about welding the rust holes in the main section but decided that if I started trying to repair the rust holes others would probably appear about as fast as I welded the ones I found in so I thought about how the easiest way to make the back part would be.  The main piece has a crease about a third of the way up across it that would be hard to duplicate and make it look good with my metal skills plus trying to get the bottom and upper part curved and bent at the outer edges.  After a bit of thought I decided that I could make the main section in two pieces and shape them using the sheet metal brake to form the crease and roll each piece along the outer parts and then weld them together so I made a paper pattern of the back and then transferred the upper and lower part to two pieces of cardboard and got two new pieces of metal cut out.  Bent the top lip on the lower piece on an angle to match the crease and then rolled the sides of both the lower and upper pieces so they conformed to the curve in the back.  Did a couple of test fits and things are looking fairly close in my opinion - will still have to fine tune where the two pieces meet before I can weld them together to see how it turns out.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 3 Back With Pinholes.jpg
  • 4 cardboard Patterns.jpg
  • 5 Pieces Cut Out.jpg
  • 6 Pieces Bent.jpg
  • 7 Lower Piece.jpg
  • 8 Upper Piece.jpg
  • 9 Upper Piece.jpg
  • 10 Lower Piece Test FIt.jpg
  • 11 Lower Piece Test FIt.jpg
  • 12 Lower Piece Test FIt.jpg
  • 13 Upper Piece Test Fit.jpg
  • 14 Upper Piece Test Fit.jpg
  • 15 Upper Piece Test Fit.jpg
  • 16 Upper Piece Test Fit.jpg
  • 17 Upper And Lower Piece Test Fit.jpg
  • 18 Upper And Lower Piece Test Fit.jpg

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#133 Austen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2017 - 07:18 PM

 

Serious work Stew ,serious skills.

 

No kidding, Stew never ceases to amaze me with his talent. On a side note, love your signature line, Stew! Very clever, and fitting- I like it. :thumbs:

 

Nice work, Kevin, you're really cleaning it up from what it was before. You're bringing it back to the tractor it should be and it's going to be the way you want it to be.

 

Cute daughter too! :-)


Edited by Austen, March 20, 2017 - 08:00 PM.

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#134 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2017 - 02:50 PM

Cleaned up the outer edge of the seat back with the wire brush and found multiple little pin holes which did not surprise me.  Did some fine tuning on the two pieces where they met and got them to where I was ready to weld together so I clamped them to the seat back and tacked them along the join.  Once they were tacked I welded them on both sides and then sanded the welds on the outside to smooth things out - things looked good and I did not get much distortion in the two pieces.  Once the welds were sanded I marked the bolt hole locations, drilled them and then bolted the new section onto the back and marked out where I want to cut the outer lip off.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cleaning Up Outer Edge.jpg
  • 2 Close Up.jpg
  • 3 Close Up.jpg
  • 4 Close Up.jpg
  • 5 Close Up.jpg
  • 6 Close Up.jpg
  • 7 Close Up.jpg
  • 8 Close Up.jpg
  • 9 Ready To Weld.jpg
  • 10 Ready To Weld.jpg
  • 11 Tacked.jpg
  • 12 Welded.jpg
  • 13 Weld Sanded.jpg
  • 14 Not Much Distortion.jpg
  • 15 Inside Weld Cleaned Up A Bit.jpg
  • 16 Bottom View.jpg
  • 17 Holes Drilled And Bolted In Place To Mark Out Where To Cut.jpg
  • 18 Holes Drilled And Bolted In Place To Mark Out Where To Cut.jpg
  • 19 Back MArked Where To Cut.jpg
  • 20 Back ANd Replacement Panel.jpg

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#135 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2017 - 03:41 PM

Got the piece cut out using the angle grinder with a thin cut off blade on the straight runs and the die grinder in the corners - was going to use the saws all on the straight sections but I figured the nuts might be hard on the blade since they were right on the edge of where I wanted to cut.  Once the section was removed I did a few test fits and got the outer piece fitting on the new section to my liking and tacked things in place.  It look good so it got welded on and I filled in the rust and rivet holes in the outer edge and replaced the rusted section on the bottom with a new piece of steel - will have to trim it to shape it when I start sanding.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rusty Piece Cut Out.jpg
  • 2 Rusty Piece Cut Out.jpg
  • 3 Rusty Piece Cut Out.jpg
  • 4 Rusty Piece Cut Out.jpg
  • 5 New Piece Tacked In.jpg
  • 6 New Piece Tacked In.jpg
  • 7 New Piece Tacked In.jpg
  • 8 New Piece Tacked In Place For Lower Edge.jpg
  • 9 New Piece Tacked In Place For Lower Edge.jpg
  • 10 New Piece Tacked In Place For Lower Edge.jpg
  • 11 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 12 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 13 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 14 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 15 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 16 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 17 New Piece Welded In.jpg
  • 18 New Piece Welded In.jpg

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