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JD 165 Hydro "Little John"


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#76 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2016 - 09:51 PM

Transaxle is almost done, All that is left is to top off the 30W and install it back in the tractor.... hopefully this weekend.

Some before and after's; Pictures really help with assembly!

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#77 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2016 - 04:16 PM

Ok, I need to take a better sample of the Hydro oil this evening as when I topped it off yesterday I over filled it and had to syphon some out. I poured the excess (a couple ounces) into a small container. It looked like there may have been some grass blades in it, hence a second deeper sample is needed. I researched the API recommendations of SE, CC, or CD and they are all obsolete. I did find this; 

 

CF Current Introduced in 1994. For off-road, indirect injected and other diesel engines including those using fuel with over 0.5% weight sulfur. Can be used in place of CD oils.

 

The Rotella T1 is (API CF-2. CF) So I should be good if I have my Son help me pour out the old oil through the fill tube and fill it with clean oil.  



#78 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2016 - 09:24 PM

This weeks progress. I didn't drain the hydro 30W as recommended in the manual, but I did clear the crud from the fine screen in the fill tube. I installed the transaxle. I would like to note here that the belt and fan are a challenge. I didn't feel good installing the fan then the transaxle so I left it off. I did install the new belt. Once the top 3 transaxle bolts were tightened there was no way to install the fan. So I dropped the transaxle and placed the fan on the pulley, thinking I'll install the fan bolts later. I ended up dropping the transaxle again to install and tighten the fan bolts. After that fascicle I rearranged the work bench to start the engine restore. Gasket kit is still available but I am not sure how deep I'll go on it as everything seems well maintained so far. I guess I'll know more as I tear it down.    

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Edited by larrybl, September 02, 2016 - 09:25 PM.

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#79 TexasG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2016 - 12:07 AM

Sorry Larry, That's a JD exclusive. The only way the fan goes on the 165, 175, 185 Hydro's is prior to bolt up. I should've mentioned that last week.

#80 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2016 - 09:31 PM

I ended up dropping the transaxle two more times (for a total of three) First time was to install the fan, Second time was to install the motion lever, third time was to remove the motion lever to install the axle U-bolt. I think I am good now so I should be able to install the rest of the linkages. phew. 

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#81 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2016 - 09:41 PM

Decided to start on the engine tear down. Looks good so far, Regular dirt and crud from years of use. I was able to vacuum most off but I will clean it up  good and check each part. I need to get a gasket kit so I can check the valves, And possibility a carb kit. I did find some B/S gaskets that will fit.

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Edited by larrybl, September 04, 2016 - 09:43 PM.

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#82 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2016 - 06:04 PM

Arrrrrrg! Now an issue with the deck release lever. It is keyed so it had to be installed BEFORE all the other assemblies. Instead of un-installing all the other levers and springs I am thinking of grinding the outer tab off and drilling a hole so a washer and cotter pin can be used.\

Thoughts?

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#83 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2016 - 07:11 PM

False Alarm. After Supper and a few beers I looked at the issue again. All I had to remove was the ratchet looking part (One C Clip) and install the lever on it and feed it back up through the frame and re-install the C clip.

 

I am trying to see why these two pictures are different? The bottom cross bar is installed correctly.

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#84 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2016 - 09:55 PM

I finished the lower frame and steering, now to work on the power plant and tires. Gets easier from here but more expensive.

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#85 TexasG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2016 - 12:16 PM

Larry, the carb is NLA. Must be careful in removing the float pin. The two legs holding the pin are very fragile. Tap it carefully in the correct direction or you risk breaking a pin leg.

So far, the three fb460v carbs I've repaired, none required parts, just a careful cleaning. The jet and emulsifier tube get crusty.
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#86 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2016 - 12:39 PM

Good info! I will be working on the wire harness for now until I have funds to purchase a carb kit and engine gaskets. A careful cleaning and de-carbon is all that is planned at this time. New Spark plug and valve adjustment check will be included.


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#87 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2016 - 02:20 PM

False Alarm. After Supper and a few beers I looked at the issue again. All I had to remove was the ratchet looking part (One C Clip) and install the lever on it and feed it back up through the frame and re-install the C clip.

 

I am trying to see why these two pictures are different? The bottom cross bar is installed correctly.

Looks like just a different camera angle - and paint to me. 


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#88 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2016 - 03:35 PM

Looks like just a different camera angle - and paint to me. 

I have been studying those. I need to route the belt properly, and have the brake pedal placed in the same position as the "before" picture and re-take. The deck support just doesn't look to be hanging right.


Edited by larrybl, September 06, 2016 - 03:36 PM.


#89 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2016 - 08:29 PM

And I thought the 1990 Craftsman drive belt was difficult to replace. I had to refer to the manual on this one. Remove the Transmission linkage, There goes a new carter pin, Remove the steering support bolts and spin support 90*, Remove Drag Link. Man..... You would think they built the tractor around the belt.

As for the deck hanger, I looked at a couple other pictures and the angle seems correct.

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#90 ericjr16 ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 05:20 AM

Looks great Larry! I'm on MTF as well same name!


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