Posted May 08, 2011 - 09:42 AM
I was luck to make the original electric clutch to fit with a custom made plate to fit the
mag part to the engine block. Then I made spacer for inside and outside to fit the crank and center the pulley on the out put shaft. I set her in place and I determined that I need raise it up to the original shaft center line, what is in there is temp until I machine larger blocks and a plate to go under the engine.
Today I have to machine the spacer to adapt the drive spline to the new engine. I think I am going to remove and replace the double pulleys at the same time they are very worn out plus there is room to go larger with 5" pulley which will give me 1/3 more drive surface, I will not have to tighten the pulleys as much, when I pulled the old engine out the flywheel side of the engine moves up and down about 30 thousand, looking at how the belt tensioner works it put alot of down force on the front bearing of the motor, kind of stupid system especialy if the engine was not designed to do so. So anybody over doing the tension here will destroy the front bearing.
I am going to have to cut some of the hood support to fit it over the new air cleaner and build a muffler bracket to fit it under the hood. I am looking forward to the power of this thing should be FUN. LOL
Posted May 08, 2011 - 11:47 AM
Posted May 08, 2011 - 07:52 PM
Posted May 08, 2011 - 08:00 PM
Posted May 08, 2011 - 08:04 PM
I know it would make belt changing a pita, but........
Just a thought.
Posted May 08, 2011 - 08:31 PM
Posted May 08, 2011 - 10:04 PM
Posted May 08, 2011 - 11:02 PM
The hood does not need to be modified other than cutting back the inside support enough to clear the filter housing there is the rectifier on the side of the engine that needs to be moved but no big deal there. I have had the hood on it already lots of room around the engine it should cool nicely.
Looks great, that motor is a beast! Just take your time with the hood, it will make or break the job when its all done. Can you gain enough room by just making those lower bulges wider, or maybe wider and lifted up a bit? It will be a fair bit to make it look stock, but well worth it in the end!
Posted May 09, 2011 - 06:43 AM
Posted May 14, 2011 - 12:12 AM
rotatory table I could do it quite easy but hey can't have all the cool tools. I am lucky to have a cad/cam program on my computer and drafted up the exact dimensions needed to overlay it on my drive adapter then center punched the drill points.
Edited by ErnRemy, May 14, 2011 - 01:40 PM.
Posted May 14, 2011 - 04:19 AM
Posted May 14, 2011 - 08:41 AM
Posted May 14, 2011 - 11:45 AM
no I also drawn up a center bore diameter line as well, I finished the drilling and tapping this morning all the bolts threaded in by finger the bolt holes have only a 5thou clearance so I must have done something right
Very nice job ! Are you just checking the center punch marks compared to the counterbored holes ?
Posted May 14, 2011 - 12:52 PM
Posted May 14, 2011 - 01:27 PM