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Bolens Husky 750 oil leak


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#31 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 12:41 PM

Parts have arrived, now I just need to free up enough time to clean everything and put them in.


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#32 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2016 - 09:51 PM

The engine is assembled again and back in the tractor. I started and ran it for a couple of minutes to ensure I hadn't done anything catastrophically stupid. About the only point where I was unsure was using the "Universal Piston Rings" 690014 in an aluminum bore engine. Applied oil on all surfaces before mating and it went back together as easily as it came apart.

 

The carb still needs adjusting, but otherwise it looks like it's done.


Edited by dtsh, July 24, 2016 - 10:20 PM.

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#33 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2016 - 11:50 AM

When I pulled the starter out of mine, I lifted the engine some to make it easier for me to get at the front shroud bolts. Check out the shop manual that I posted some time ago under "Wisconsin" in the engines section of the manuals here.



#34 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2016 - 12:46 PM

I would not recommend using sandpaper as particles of sand from the paper may embed themselves into the parts (such as the top or sides of the piston) as you are sanding and be released at a later date when the engine is running causing abrasive sand to be released in the combustion area - just my opinion.

...

One of the biggest mistakes people make is failing to flush out the minute dirt particles that get created when residue in an engine is disturbed either from cleaning or machining operations such as cylinder honing - again just my opinion.    

 

Well, you kind of solved your own problem that you described earlier.  As long as you thoroughly clean and flush the block and pistons, etc. after you are done, you should be fine.  If you have an engine hone (they do make special ones for honing aluminum blocks as well) you can use that too while spraying some WD40 into the cylinder as you are honing it to lubricate the hone as well as to flush any particles out that may work their way off.

 

But yes, I have seen people try to port out their cylinder heads while they are on the engine or use an angle die grinder with rough sanding discs on it to try to clean up the mating surfaces on the head and block when replacing a head gasket and they just stuff shop rags in the engine to try to keep the particles out!  I can only imagine how many metal filings and other dirt and debris that there are inside that engine when they are done or how long the engine will last before it blows up after a job like that!



#35 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2016 - 04:15 PM

I didn't hone the cylinder, but I did clean all the surfaces carefully and kept repeating the clean and wipe process until there was no residue to take up.

I've been treating it like a total rebuild and running it for short periods with an oil change in between, essentially following the procedure in the manual.

 

Thanks for all the adive and help!


Edited by dtsh, July 25, 2016 - 04:16 PM.

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#36 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2016 - 02:47 AM

I forgot to mention that the advice to use a bit of grease to hold the halves of the valve spring keeper in place worked perfectly. A pair of tweezers, a dab of grease, and an otherwise miserable task became relatively simple. Thank you so very much for the suggestion.


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#37 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2016 - 03:53 PM

Glad it worked out for you and the engine is all back together and running already!  How has it been running so far?  Is there much improvement now after the "rebuild"?  Hopefully you at least stopped the oil leak you were originally experiencing...



#38 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2016 - 09:41 PM

Glad it worked out for you and the engine is all back together and running already!  How has it been running so far?  Is there much improvement now after the "rebuild"?  Hopefully you at least stopped the oil leak you were originally experiencing...

 

 

Leak is done, though I haven't gotten the carb tuned yet as some other work interrupted (more quonset construction, but my H16 is doing the lifting now)

It ran well before aside from leaking oil like a sieve, so I don't expect much improvement in that regard. The valves were a little out of tolerance so I brought the gap down on those as well.



#39 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2016 - 09:40 PM

I got to it today, I had an issue with it running for a while and then after about 15 minutes, it'd just shut down. I checked all the usual things, vapor lock, spark, etc. Turned out in the disassembly some grime in the tank got stired up and it was clogging the line. let through enough that if it sat, it'd refill, but apparently couldn't keep up. Cleaned it out and it's been running smooth since, I think I'm done with the engine, now to fix the rest....


Edited by dtsh, July 28, 2016 - 09:40 PM.

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