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bolens 1050 pto belt help


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#1 petrj6 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 07:44 PM

   SO I am working on a bolens 1050 and have run into a snag, to start with everything is stock to the best of my knowledge.  I got all the parts in a put it back together today but I cant get the pto to stay engaged and when it does the belts are so tight the driveshaft is hitting the chassis and the motor stalls.  so I tore it apart and did a little research, the belts I took of measure 42.25 around the outside.  After a bit of research I found out that there are supposed to be 42.5" belts on there so I figured I would be smart and just stick a couple of 42" belts on there to get it in use just to make sure it would work.

   SO I put the 42" belt on there and it is way to loose !!!!!  the belt I put on is marked 42" and measures 44" around the outside.  so if it should take a 42.5" belt and a 42" belt is to long then what is going on ?  does anyone know what size the idler is supposed to be ? maybe this one has been changed ?  any thoughts

                                                                                      Pete



#2 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 07:50 PM

Have you checked if the PTO lever block is moving freely on the PTO rod? Those tend to seize up and when they do it makes the PTO tension spring useless and would cause the symptoms you describe.
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#3 petrj6 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 07:56 PM

   so the handle should move separate from the idler arm ?  I think I remember this from a bolens I tore apart awhile back.  there is a spring on the rod that allows it to remain tight but still move ??  makes sense

                                                                     Pete



#4 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 08:00 PM

Yes the block moves on the rod and the tension is done by the retention spring. Good luck getting that free if that's your problem, they are a hard to get moving again.

#5 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 08:02 PM

Originals were 42.5''  Are you sure the belt actually said 42'' not an A42 which would actually be 44''

 

Here's the correct belts and idler incase you get stuck and need a reference

 

http://bolenspartsan...products.search

 

http://bolenspartsan...e-idler-pulley/

 

 

Also check the pto lever and make sure it moves free all the way over to engage and is not rusted to the shaft.


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#6 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 08:04 PM

Here is a picture of the PTO lever set up on a 1050. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1050 PTO Lever.jpg


#7 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 05:21 PM

I've  the same had exactly the same issue the where the recommended belt is not correct . Everything else is in order but the recommended belt is too short. Haven't got round to fixing it yet but can state the 42.5 inch belt is too short in some instances which seems strange.

 

If you fit a 42.5" inch it will not allow the PTO lever to lock in.



#8 petrj6 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 07:53 PM

   thanks for the help guys, turned out to be the pto lever block was stuck solid.  a little heat and some penetrating oil and I was back in business now I need to get the carb fixed and go mowing.

                                                     Pete


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#9 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 07:55 PM

I've  the same had exactly the same issue the where the recommended belt is not correct . Everything else is in order but the recommended belt is too short. Haven't got round to fixing it yet but can state the 42.5 inch belt is too short in some instances which seems strange.

 

If you fit a 42.5" inch it will not allow the PTO lever to lock in.

 

I'd say something's wrong then as a 42.5'' Is what they called for...... Maybe over the pond they measure different? 


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#10 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 08:39 PM

The belts are sized the same globally as either a standard or metric belt. I agree with Bolens1000, something else must not be right if you are truly using the correct size belts. There are many belt suppliers out there that claim to have correct belts, but they usually are not. The OEM PTO belts on these are a very specific make and size at 42.5". Most off the shelf belts will be either 42" or 43". 42" is too short and the PTO will almost constantly run even when off. The 43" is just simply too long.
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#11 MrFixit1599 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2016 - 01:59 PM

Here is a picture of the PTO lever set up on a 1050. 

I have a related question.  I was mowing the yard today and my 1050 just stopped.  I see the tension spring for the main drive is loose.  I was going to just re-attach it, but I am not sure where the other end attaches to and the print doesnt really specify other than there is supposed to be a cotter pin holding it in place somewhere.  Any advice would be appreciated.



#12 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2016 - 03:50 PM

Spring 1716728 attaches from the idler arm to a cotter pin on the main frame, could be it rusted and broke off 

 

 

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  • Untitled.png

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#13 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2016 - 06:43 PM

Not doubting Doc on the original location of the cotter pin but on my one 1050 the cotter pin was mounted in a hole on the clutch yoke support - if memory serves me it was a large diameter cotter pin (3/16" or 1/4") bent over from underneath.  If it broke and it needs to be replaced it could be a pain to do with things together if yours was mounted in the same location (it is more in line with the idler pulley arm than the hole in the main support) - the pin ends would be hard to bend I would think.  You should be able to tell which hole was used on yours - the one in the main support or the clutch yoke.  On my second 1050 someone had drilled another hole in the clutch yoke support and mounted a 1/4" diameter eye bolt in it for the tensioner spring.  When I redid my second 1050 I went to the hardware store and got a smaller diameter eyebolt and drilled a hole just down from the original hole in the clutch yoke pivot to mount the eye in with a nut on the top and a nut on the bottom to lock it in position once I had it oriented properly so the spring was not being twisted - you may want to use Loctite on the threads or vibration nuts on the eye bolt.  Attached are pictures of what the clutch yoke support looks like from the top and bottom - the eye bolt may be easier to mount than a cotter pin and the round shape of the eye bolt may be easier on the spring hook than a cotter pin as I have seen the spring wear on the hook of the spring where it makes contact with the cotter pin creating a weak spot that usually breaks at a most annoying time.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Holes for Cotter Pin And Eye Bolt.jpg
  • 2 New Eyebolt InstalledTop View.jpg
  • 3 View Underneath.jpg

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#14 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2016 - 06:49 PM

Oh crap sorry about that that small hole I pictured is for the belt switch return spring on 3 speeds not the idler tension spring, its been a long day! :wallbanging:

 

 

29 chev is correct. 


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#15 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2016 - 08:18 PM

Oh crap sorry about that that small hole I pictured is for the belt switch return spring on 3 speeds not the idler tension spring, its been a long day! :wallbanging:

 

 

29 chev is correct. 

No need to bang your head - maybe you were dreaming about a nice freshly painted metallic brown 900 with a new seat?? 


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