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Broken spindle assembly


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#1 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:28 AM

Last year I installed a steel angle bracket on the front of my LGT145, with a trailer ball attached, so I could maneuver my car trailer around in the driveway more easily than with the pickup. This morning, with the trailer attached, I was backing the tractor up and turning when I looked down and thought, "Wow, that left front tire sure has a lot of castor". Well, don't I wish. The spindle on the steering arm had snapped off down in the assembly. As you can see in the photos, there was only about half the spindle attached. I assume this must have been from an earlier fracture, I don't know. It doesn't look repairable, so I'm in the hunt for a replacement. Any suggestions? Also, are there any alternatives to the hardened roll pin that holds the spindle in the steering arm assembly? It took me an hour to get it out which involved making a piloted drift, lots of heat, and a five pound hammer.

 

 

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:59 AM

Last year I installed a steel angle bracket on the front of my LGT145, with a trailer ball attached, so I could maneuver my car trailer around in the driveway more easily than with the pickup. This morning, with the trailer attached, I was backing the tractor up and turning when I looked down and thought, "Wow, that left front tire sure has a lot of castor". Well, don't I wish. The spindle on the steering arm had snapped off down in the assembly. As you can see in the photos, there was only about half the spindle attached. I assume this must have been from an earlier fracture, I don't know. It doesn't look repairable, so I'm in the hunt for a replacement. Any suggestions? Also, are there any alternatives to the hardened roll pin that holds the spindle in the steering arm assembly? It took me an hour to get it out which involved making a piloted drift, lots of heat, and a five pound hammer.

Ouch! I have one, but been saving it in case mine breaks. If you can't find one closer, I might part with it. Real hard to find parts on this side of the Mississippi!


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#3 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 02:16 PM

Mine did that. Its from twisting back and forth for years. And it's worse if you use a blower, because of the weight. I made a new one out of cold rolled 3/4 rod. I just reused the bracket. That was 7 or 8 years ago. Still holding up. I had bought a new one from new holland at the time. Didn't use it yet. Don't know if they are still available.

Noel
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#4 TimW OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 02:21 PM

I have the Jacobsen closed side version I may breakdown, I would sell any and everything off it except the engine.  Mine never has had accessories attached, other than the crappy rusted out deck.


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#5 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 05:04 PM

A little JB weld & duck tape will fix that right up!!   :smilewink:

 

DANG!!  Car trailers are quite heavy to put on a front axle for sure..  Once you get it fixed try to hook it up and break the rear of the tractor! :beerchug:


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#6 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 08:19 PM

  It broke off almost to the weld, so I'd clean all the weld off, get it in position and re-weld it w/ stick running high on the amps. It's worth trying and it won't be on the road doing 60 mph.

                                                                          Mike


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#7 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 03:34 AM

That cracked seconds after welding at the factory, lasted all these years, this happens once in a while, steel was a little too cold when welded out. This is exactly why you should pre heat anything thicker than 1/2". Anyways, don't try fixing it, it's been crystalized, if you have access to a good torch and press, make a new one. McMaster Carr has good material you can by to do so. Get a length of 1045 that is ground finished size!! Then heat it up at the bend area to say, 350° not red hot, you just want to get the molecules excited to take a bend. Put in press an bend to the correct angle. Next prep your steering arm/ bearing surface from the broken piece. Get it in position , pre heat the new shaft to 850° or so and weld it on the same as it was before. Let cool on its own!!! When cool , paint and reinstall.
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#8 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 08:39 AM

Thanks. Lots of good advice and information there. I'm going to keep searching for a replacement, but if I can't find one soon, I know a good welder as I only have a little MIG. My idea would be to cut the existing bar just below the weld where the bend starts below the bracket, cut or grind away the remaining piece of bar and weld, drop a new piece of bar down through the hole to butt the existing bar, and weld as original, including the butt. I have made templates of bar length and angle and pin hole location. 

 

I didn't realize I had gotten any responses to my post until I talked with another member last night. How do I set  to receive emails?

 

Alan

That cracked seconds after welding at the factory, lasted all these years, this happens once in a while, steel was a little too cold when welded out. This is exactly why you should pre heat anything thicker than 1/2". Anyways, don't try fixing it, it's been crystalized, if you have access to a good torch and press, make a new one. McMaster Carr has good material you can by to do so. Get a length of 1045 that is ground finished size!! Then heat it up at the bend area to say, 350° not red hot, you just want to get the molecules excited to take a bend. Put in press an bend to the correct angle. Next prep your steering arm/ bearing surface from the broken piece. Get it in position , pre heat the new shaft to 850° or so and weld it on the same as it was before. Let cool on its own!!! When cool , paint and reinstall.


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#9 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 09:38 AM

Up at the top of the thread on the right is a button that says "Follow this topic" click it and you should receive emails when there is activity.


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#10 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 09:56 AM

  Jagman, my personal opinion is you're making this into a nuclear power plant project. I agree w/ skyrydr that a new pin and preheat before welding will probably make it outlast the original. Some serious peening on the weld w/ a needle gun or air chipping hammer would help relieve weld stresses.

                                       Mike


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#11 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2016 - 09:02 AM

Well, we're back on the green road again. Thanks for all the comments. I finally decided on repairing the spindle using a 3/4" bolt cut to length, set at the correct angle which I had measured previously, and having it welded in by a local shop. I tacked it in place with my MIG first. The weld was done with a power MIG and air cooled afterward. I had a little trouble getting the roll pin hole drilled through dead center but it's all back together and is very secure.

 

If anyone is interested in buying a NOS part, I actually found a source. The original Jacobsen part number JAC121927 has been superseded to a New Holland 87052764 and they are obsolete but available out of the warehouse for only $230! I opted for the $3.62 bolt from Home Depot and $20 for the weld.

 

 

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#12 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2016 - 10:12 AM

Thanks for the update, I was wondering how this turned out.  Glad you have it back up and going, nothing like a little back yard engineering.   :thumbs:


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2016 - 07:43 PM

Sounds like a good fix! Have FUN!






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