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Geared Transmission driven with hydraulic motor


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#1 sharkman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2016 - 01:43 PM

I am building a narrow front end tractor just for fun.  So far I have a John Deere 100 and I am fabing my own front end kit.  The tractor did not have an engine (it should have a vertical shaft 8 hp Briggs), but I am putting a modern 6 HP. OHV engine in it. 

 

Thinking of running a direct drive hydraulic pump from the motor to a hydraulic motor and a pulley that would spin the transmission drive belt constantly.  I would use the existing clutch and it would drive the 4 speed when released.

 

I guess I need a reservoir in the system too.

 

Here is the pump I have from a left over log splitter project;

Specifications:

  • New Hydraulic Log Splitter Pump 11 GPM @ 3600RPM.
  • Inlet: 1”
  • Outlet: ½”
  • Dimensions: 5.5”L  x  3”H  x  4”W
  • Minimum HP: 5,
  • RPM Requirement: 3600
  • For use with open center hydraulic systems only
  • 1st Stage: 9 GPM@650 PSI
  • 2nd Stage: 2 GPM@2500 PSI
  • Maximum Pressure: 3000 PSI
  • Rotation: Clockwise

Will this drove motor do what I want it too?

SPECIFICATIONS

  • Disp. 0.468 cu. in/rev
  • Type Gerotor
  • Pressure: 
      650 PSI Cont.
  • Motor Torque: 
      48.75 in-lbs. cont.
  • Speed: 
      3000 RPM max.
  • Flow: 
      6 GPM max. 
  • Rotation Reversible
  • Mount USA 4F17
    4 bolt (2" x 2") w/1-7/8" pilot
  • Shaft 7/16" x 1-1/8" w/ keyway
  • Ports 3/8" NPT rear
  • Size 3-11/16" x 2-3/4" x 3-9/16"

Thanks!

 

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#2 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2016 - 01:47 PM

Dont over complicate this build. If you are still using the original clutch and belts, then you havent gained anything over just using a belt drive set up oem. With hydraulics you need hoses, radiator, cooling fan, reservoir, filter, and space for that stuff and the hydraulic pump and hydraulic motor. On a tractor that small... Stick to basic drive methods.

Edited by wvbuzzmaster, April 26, 2016 - 01:48 PM.

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#3 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2016 - 02:01 PM

I don't think you would need cooling unless you were going to run it for extended periods of time or use it as a worker.



#4 sharkman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2016 - 02:39 PM

This is what the original belt routing looks like.  With the new steering linkage space is tight under the tractor.  I don't have the pulley from the original engine

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Edited by sharkman, April 26, 2016 - 02:40 PM.

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#5 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2016 - 06:22 PM

  Murphy tends to get heavily involved in projects such as your's!! 

                                              Mike


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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 05:04 AM

You will also loose a lot of power as heat by going the pump/motor route. With only 6hp to start with, and on a modern OHV engine that figure is usually a peak amount not continuous, you will not have a lot left to drive the pump in high load situations.



#7 sharkman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 07:45 AM

Thank you all for the input.  I guess it's back to the drawing board!


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#8 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:28 AM

Thank you all for the input.  I guess it's back to the drawing board!

 

Excellent idea. Good luck with your project.

There's a lot of guys here with years of experience. Don't be afraid to bounce your ideas off of them. 



#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 11:34 AM

Slap a horizontal engine in there and drive the rearend off the side. You could make a large drive drum on the side like the big old tractors had, give it a scale model look.

 

I am curious on your front end setup, I've always wanted to built one.


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#10 sharkman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 07:24 AM

I used the axle housing from a JD110 (as most kits do) and made it work from there.  I am still working on the steering, as I don't like my current setup.  Here are a few pictures.

 

My number one priority was to make sure the tractor looked level and the front tires were in balance with the rest of the tractor.  Used 1" axle hubs on the back and 12" rims.  Still have to cut the rear fenders from the seat pan to raise them.  The front are 6".  

 

This is a  mid 1970's JD 100, the last of the "round fenders", but a lawn tractor so was not worth restoring to original (IMHO). 

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#11 sharkman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 08:35 AM

This is what i started with 

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#12 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 11:25 AM

That's really looking good. Please keep posting photos.

 

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