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New member- Ford lgt 145 project/ repower/ snowblower


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#16 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 09:42 AM

NO WAY! Mine will stall the diesel ! If your going through belts you have an alignment issue or your tensioner is not correct, maybe belts too long ? I have mine correct and belts last for at least 2-3 seasons, both deck and snowblower, and the rear pto belt hasn't even wore the ink off it yet, going on 3rd season now.
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#17 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:03 AM

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm... That's good to know. My snowblower didn't have a tensioner, so I had to fabricate one from a spare mule pulley arm  setup. I used a belt tensioner pulley from a car I used to own. The only guess-work was the spring- Mine might be too tight, or not strong enough. there is a good pic of it untensioned in post #6.  I should post some more pics to compare to an original spring. I've never had problems with the mower deck belt, or with my dad's rear pto belt on his 125. Maybe it's just the tension. I've adjusted the alignment on it multiple ways trying to find a perfect alignment- and I think it's pretty close when it is. It is good to know the blower doesn't eat belts if done properly. I just assumed it was a weak spot!

 

edit- Also the lower pulley was slightly bent when I got it, and they seem impossible to get off, so  straightened it on the axle and it seems pretty true. I will also have to look up what size belt I'm using. I have not idea what the factory size is.

 

Thanks again!

Ron


Edited by dualresponse1731, April 27, 2016 - 10:49 AM.


#18 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 02:59 AM

I had fun with the tensioner on mine too , I only use the large pulley for the mower deck everything else uses the smaller one.

#19 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 09:05 PM

Whoops....I ordered the Allis chambers rockershaft... (or... we've secretly replaced the 2 point with a new 3 point necessity...) Lets see if this fits...



#20 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2016 - 09:07 PM

Also- Keith- I saw a pic of your belt twisted back onto your smaller pto drive. It had a lot of deflection. Okay- newbie question- was that a "before" pic, or does it actually work like that?  Just curious....

Ron


Edited by dualresponse1731, April 29, 2016 - 07:39 AM.


#21 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2016 - 03:56 AM

Not sure what your refuring too there? None of my rigs have any " large deflection " on the ptos? They both have straight shots with proper sized belts? May have been an ols shot of an experiment?
Could be an allusion as it is all but impossible to get a pic of the front pto, there is 50# of stuff put in 2 # bag on my diesel rig..

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Edited by skyrydr2, April 29, 2016 - 04:03 AM.

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#22 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2016 - 05:35 AM

Yeah- that's it- the middle pic. :D After looking at it again it really doesn't look that far off-WHOOPS-  My bad- sorry! It did  Seem like the lower pulley is about 1/2 way between the small /large pulley on the PTO. Maybe it's the camera angle. Not meant  in a bad way. This is encouraging because it means that something must be wrong with my tension or setup. Because I have had such trouble, I've beaten myself over the head getting things aligned to the millimeter with a straight edge and it will still jump belts/ wear them down. The lesson here for me is that the belts can have a bit of deflection and still work well. It gives me hope I can get mine working better.

 

I also like how you have the front and rear PTO going off the same belt Thanks again for the info.


Edited by dualresponse1731, April 29, 2016 - 08:01 AM.


#23 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2016 - 08:04 AM

Lol , the front pto is only used in the winter for me snowblower, it uses up any and all room for my mule drive, so it comes off in summer. The rear pto then gets its drive belt back, can't do both . can run mower and rear but not front and rear, both can't share the same pulley, they are each gready and want it all for them selves lol
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#24 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2016 - 08:23 AM

Ha! From the pics I thought you were looping it around the rear pto and the front at the same time! That is funny. Just think, you could rototill AND blow snow at the same time! hahaha!!!!!  :dancingbanana:


Edited by dualresponse1731, April 29, 2016 - 08:24 AM.


#25 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2016 - 09:43 AM

I've been making slow and steady progress on the LGT repower. Got the mower deck installed, hooked up the rear tow behind and cut the lawn. GOBS OF POWER!!!!! Much more than the 14 hp. It pulls the tow behind with wheel weights and liquid filled tires up any incline in high gear with ease while mowing tall wet grass. It actually keeps engine speed better than my 27 hp JD x728- which will bog down on inclines while towing/mowing,

 

The only drawbacks of the lgt repower to a friggin JD 700 series is this:

Lack of 4 wheel drive (mostly for steering)

Not as tight turning radius.

Not as much traction/ weight- no differential lock.

Lack of power steering

 

Where the LGT wins:

No water cooling.

Freakin way cooler mojo!

I built it. 

 

So the JD wins- but the FORD LGT gets a VERY honorable mention!!!!!!!!!

 

Wow- a 40 year old garden tractor that is being compared to the biggest newest garden tractor JD makes before you getting into compact tractors and such!  :thumbs:

 

This is the first time I have used the rear homemade hitch to pull the offset mower. I usually use the largerJD to pull it. Using the LGT is a riot! 

 

Slowly working on the internal heat duct work. Trying to get all hot engine cooling air moving forward through the front exhaust shielding. Compared to some of the fabrication work on this website, my fabrication skills are a joke, but the engine bay is much cooler now.

 

Edit- I'm throwing in some pics of the JD for comparison- Look at how the tow behind dwarfs the LGT.  Look at how the JD dwarfs the tow behind. AND THE LGT gives the JD a run for it's money!!! yeee haw!!!!!

 

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Edited by dualresponse1731, May 07, 2016 - 08:42 PM.

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#26 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2016 - 10:31 AM

Today's project on the repower was to vent the oil cooler to outside of the closed engine bay.

As usual, I employed my lousy fabrication skills to make something that functions. I did it in aluminium flashing, and at some point might do it in metal- so all of this shrouding  is more of a rough copy at this point. I built a shroud off the side of the oil cooler, and then (gasp...) made holes in the side for hot air to exit.

 

I have always NOT wanted to modify the outside of the panels, but today I had to do something. Oh well.... The panels need repainting at some point anyway.

 

I have enclosed the pictures, but the thermometer tells the story. The hot side of the oil line comes in at about 150-160 degrees pointing at the oil filter, and the cool return side is about 115 degrees. That's significant! The exhaust  gets up around 300 degrees, but the inside of the bay is around 100. I am pretty happy with those numbers and think I can make it even better.

 

update- I went an mowed the lawn. The oil temp at the oil filter (warm side) was 195 degrees. On the cool side it was 135. That's a 60 degree drop!

 

Secondary update! Found an old can of Ford blue! Just enough to coat the area until I am ready to repaint. I recently found that someone finally started making the closed sided decals- so a repaint is now officially in order. I'm also going to get some bright aluminium mesh to line the inside of the holes, and that should spruce it up a bit.

 

Cheers!

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Edited by dualresponse1731, May 08, 2016 - 06:26 PM.

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#27 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 05:47 PM

ROCKERSHAFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(or is it just called "rockshaft"?)

 

Jackpot!  I swore earlier I wasn't going to go 3-point, but couldn't resist. I took a chance on a Allis Chalmers  shaft I found on ebay, and guestimated the measurement and lucked out bigtime. The distance between the mounting tabs fits over the LGT frame PERFECTLY. 

 

I got home, opened the box, and stuck it on there with 2 small bolts. It's kind of drooped from where it needs to be, but I'm not worried, I just need to find where I want it, and drill new holes in the frame to set it perfectly. IT IS LIKE A FACTORY OPTION!!!!!

 

I am a little upset that I will not be able to get the ford rear pto hooked up, but the v-twin engine put an end to that idea. oh well.

 

The has a good lever arm for the hydraulic ram, as well as two other arms which I can make into height stops. This is a quality piece, and unless there's something I don't know (and am about to learn)- it seems to fit perfect!

 

For a short term project, I might hook it up and drop 2 links down to my 2 point hitch- BUT>>>>LONG TERM>>>>

 

 

Now for the question:

Paging Keith (Ahem....) Paging Keith....

Can you put bents in a custom set of lower arms like on my JD x728? The internal mounts are at about 14 inches- about what the lower axle tabs are on a LGT. If I could get these bends, I could have a class one hookup with a 27 inch wide rear drawbar width.

 

I am almost 1/2 tempted to buy a JDx700 series 3 point kit, but most of that fabrication is in the Rockshaft- and at $500+, is not going to happen anytime soon.

 

Also- I need to fabricate a upper link to go around the rockshaft bar. I can't disassemble the rockshaft to slide/weld one on, so I was thinking fabricate one with some big a$$ u bolts. I don't know.... 

 

Thoughts?!?!?

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Edited by dualresponse1731, May 09, 2016 - 06:09 PM.

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#28 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 07:12 PM

My arms are straight no need for bends if you go cat "0" , the Deere 700 series has a "special cat 1 " hitch that is also a pain to get things to fit. Cat "0" has a max spread of 20" cat 1 is 30 ". The LGTshould only lift 450# max with front ballast.
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#29 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2016 - 07:38 PM

Thanks Keith  :D - Interesting- the deere site has a limit of 450 on the 700 series as well. I would think it would be more, but it's not.

 

http://salesmanual.d...00-500-700.html

 

My JD  has a width of 26-27, and fits about everything (that I've got). Perhaps 26 is what people refer to as a limited class one hitch? ( I don't know- I'm learning)

 

Most of my implements come in around the 26 range- except for the rear blade which is built HEAVY DUTY but has a cat 0 ish width.

My biggest is a rear 30 inch dirt scoop, which I run the pins inboard and it works fine- I use it mostly for lightweight mulch and such, so it works well.

I don't really expect the Ford to be practical pulling these things- Even the JD struggles with weight and with 4wd and the differential lock will spin wheels if I get too aggressive with these things.

 

HINT- this is a subtle prod for someone to come up with a 14 inch- 26 inch splay!  Ruegg makes one under "John Deere 3 point hitch" on ebay for the 700 series and the 400 series.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...f1fVnj11RoTrFwQ

 

I can provide measurements of my JD bends if someone has a press to make those types of bends.-or if someone can go wide like the ruegg, thats cool too!!!!  :D

 

Here are some of the attachments I would like to carry- however, most of the time, I would like to have a rear triangle with a 2 inch hitch receiver (much like my current setup) to hold the carry-all basket, but it would look like my JD triangle, yet have weight brackets incorporated into it somehow.

 

MOST IMPORTANTLY THE REAR TRIANGLE WOULD BE PAINTED FORD BLUE!!!!!

 

When discussing fabricating such ideas... My HF 110V mig just aint gonna cut it!!!!!!!! :worshippy1:

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Edited by dualresponse1731, May 09, 2016 - 07:44 PM.


#30 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2016 - 03:08 AM

Your LGT isn't going to work carrying any of those pieces around. If you did lift them they would most definitely stress out the frame! And you will know this is happening when it won't stay stopped when your foot is off the pedal!!
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