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Scoop tote build


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#1 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2016 - 08:08 PM

I am contemplating building a dumping carry all, thinking along the line of a scoop tote. As of now I am thinking a bit wider than the tractor and about 24" deep. I have an old steel box to split and reuse. My biggest question, it is stainless and how do you weld it?
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#2 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2016 - 08:10 PM

Could I use a stick welder? And can regular steel be welded to it?

#3 1964Deere OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2016 - 08:44 PM

What kind of steel box, thickness etc? And pretty sure you can buy special welding rods for stainless


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#4 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2016 - 08:52 PM

1/8 on the sides and 2×2×1/4 corner posts.
A box to burn trash in, left by the previous owner. 12+ years in the weather and no rust... That's why I am guessing it is stainless.

Edited by shorty, April 21, 2016 - 09:00 PM.


#5 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 04:37 AM

Could I use a stick welder? And can regular steel be welded to it?

 

Yes, but you will have to find the right rods.

 

6011 just ain't gonna do it  :D :D :D


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#6 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 05:38 AM

Yes, but you will have to find the right rods.

6011 just ain't gonna do it :D :D :D

Yup. I was looking through some welding forums. There are about 5 different ones that they couldn't agree on.😉 So far it is just in preliminary planning.

#7 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 09:22 AM

  309 stainless rod should work OK, open up the wallet!! I'm not sure but I think it is a DC only rod.

                                             Mike


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#8 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 04:17 PM

The more I think about this, the less I feel like trying to deal with the challenge of stainless. But the thought of a nice dumping carry all is cool. Polish.... No rust. Once I disassemble this box, I should have enough to build the whole frame. And our big snow this past winter showed me how usefull it could be year round.

#9 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 08:27 PM

 If you decide to use 309 rod start out w/ amps at the low end of recommended range and work up from there. Stainless is a poor conductor and if the amps are too high the rod will almost melt before you burn it down to a stub if you're making one continuous weld. Also try to make all the welds in the flat position as 309 is a little tricky to run vertical up.

                                   Mike


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#10 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 09:22 PM

If you decide to use 309 rod start out w/ amps at the low end of recommended range and work up from there. Stainless is a poor conductor and if the amps are too high the rod will almost melt before you burn it down to a stub if you're making one continuous weld. Also try to make all the welds in the flat position as 309 is a little tricky to run vertical up.
Mike

Thanks for the welding tips Mike. It could be a month or two til I really get started on it.
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#11 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 09:43 PM

Have looked at the one I built.

http://gardentractor...coop-box-blade/

This shows some of the things that I have done on mine.

 

Charlie


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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2016 - 06:27 AM

Wow, you've really bitten off a mouthful there.
http://www.esabna.co...c/Lesson5_1.htm

May I suggest either taking the pieces to a professional welder or examining the possibility of putting plates on both sides and thru bolting
Good stainless can be soft and possibly having a plate to spread out the attachment point won't be a bad idea? Especially considering the fact that it's design specs will be tested occasionally (we all do it once in a while)
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#13 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2016 - 07:09 AM

Have looked at the one I built.
http://gardentractor...coop-box-blade/
This shows some of the things that I have done on mine.

Charlie

How wide and deep is your scoop? Off the top of my head, I was thinking of trying for 27" deep and about 52" wide. One thought was, I could be getting to much weight then that it couldn't be used like I thought.

#14 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2016 - 07:19 AM

Wow, you've really bitten off a mouthful there.
http://www.esabna.co...c/Lesson5_1.htm

May I suggest either taking the pieces to a professional welder or examining the possibility of putting plates on both sides and thru bolting
Good stainless can be soft and possibly having a plate to spread out the attachment point won't be a bad idea? Especially considering the fact that it's design specs will be tested occasionally (we all do it once in a while)

TESTING?😉 Think along the line of a nine year old and a 18 horse.... It WILL be tested every time it is used. I can't understand where he got his driving skills, I thought I kept mine.😁 I did consider bolting it together since I don't have a welder and have to take it all to a friends place to do the welding

#15 Gillis.jim OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2016 - 12:59 PM

Yes, but you will have to find the right rods.

6011 just ain't gonna do it :D :D :D



You can use steel wire or rod on stainless but it will rust. It is better to use stainless rod or wire. Makes a really nice bead too if you have your machine set right. You'll want your bead to be a nice yellow gold colour. That shows that your travel speed and Heat are just right.

As for 6011 I wouldn't use that on anything worth keeping. It makes a mess and smokes like heII. 7018 rod is what you want to be using for steel applications. It is way stronger than the 6011 and does a much better job.
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