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Wisconsin TRA-12D


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#1 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 01:15 PM

I decided to rebuild the Wisconsin TRA-12D so I spent the morning taking it apart,here are some pic's.
0506010756.jpg

Just to make it clear I never rebuilt a engine before!!!! So I have a few questions to ask.
(1)The ring gap is about 0.0080 when seated in the cylinder which I think is way over??Is it the same gap as the TRA-10D 0.0025
(2)The exhaust valve sits higher then the intake valve not sure if that was something that was done before when it was rebuilt or not??
0506010803.jpg
(3)Should I replace the crank seal while I'm there??they didn't leak before.

(4)When I puled the drive pulley off I noticed a peace was broke at the engine side of the pulley. Will I have to replace it or not???
0506011221.jpg

I also honed the cylinder to clean it up, oooh shinny
0506011200a.jpg

Thanks for all your help past,present and future!!!:rocker2:
And a short video as well.
YouTube - Wisconsin TRA-12D

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Edited by awol, May 06, 2011 - 01:37 PM.


#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 03:23 PM

My service manual doesn't state ring end gap, but you should be fine at .008". The .0025 is piston to cylinder clearance & ring groove play stats. On the pulley, I would just round the broken inside edge slightly & use it as-is. Won't hurt a thing.
And it's normal for the exhaust valve to sit higher...thicker valve top.
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#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 04:13 PM

:ditto: what Daniel said above.

A Page I have says the gap should be between .004 and .012 thousandths.
Make sure you check the top of the piston to see if you have a standard or oversize piston and ring set.

#4 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 05:03 PM

:ditto: what Daniel said above.

A Page I have says the gap should be between .004 and .012 thousandths.
Make sure you check the top of the piston to see if you have a standard or oversize piston and ring set.

Top of the piston is 010 I guess 10 thou over?

#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 06:36 PM

Top of the piston is 010 I guess 10 thou over?



Yep, .010" oversize.

#6 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:00 PM

Yep, .010" oversize.

So what exactly dose that mean, as far as ring gap???? or rings I should buy.

#7 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:49 PM

You want to order a .010" oversize ring set. Your compression rings weren't worn out, but the oil control ring set might have been the fault if it was smoking. Plus you need to check valve to guide fit. If lots of side to side play, new guides & possibly valves are in order.
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#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:51 PM

You never did say why you ar5e rebuilding....smoking? You should also check the rod journal on the crank for wear. A micrometer or good dial caliper will accurately measure it & check for out of round. You could use "plastigauge" also to check rod to journal clearance.

#9 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:58 PM

The only suggestion I have is on your honing job is to run the hone in and out of the bore to create more of a cross hatch so the rings will break in correctly. Looks line the honing marks in the bore right now are straight around which could cause a ring to break or get stuck.

#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:05 PM

The only suggestion I have is on your honing job is to run the hone in and out of the bore to create more of a cross hatch so the rings will break in correctly. Looks line the honing marks in the bore right now are straight around which could cause a ring to break or get stuck.


Yep, good catch George! You wanna run the drill slow & rapidly pull the hone in & out to create a 40 to 45 degree cross hatch pattern.
That flat pattern will wear the rings down fast!

#11 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:10 PM

You never did say why you ar5e rebuilding....smoking? You should also check the rod journal on the crank for wear. A micrometer or good dial caliper will accurately measure it & check for out of round. You could use "plastigauge" also to check rod to journal clearance.

It did smoke a bit when I bought it and thought if I was to restore it I would go all the way. I wil have to buy a micrometer to check the specs on it.

#12 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:14 PM

Yep, good catch George! You wanna run the drill slow & rapidly pull the hone in & out to create a 40 to 45 degree cross hatch pattern.
That flat pattern will wear the rings down fast!

I did exactly that and thats how it turned out. I Youtube it and all say the same. thanks

#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:20 PM

If you go slow enough, & pull the hone in & out fast, you'll get proper cross hatch. When I mean slow, I mean like 60 to 80 rpm. Maybe you can practice on a junk block. You'll definitely see a good crosshatch when you practice a bit. But don't practice on your good cylinder. You may end up removing too much material.

#14 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 10:22 PM

:ditto: the above replies

#15 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 09:59 AM

(1)The ring gap is about 0.0080 when seated in the cylinder which I think is way over??Is it the same gap as the TRA-10D 0.0025 The general rule of thumb is .003" per inch of cylinder bore. ....Your .008" is fine! .....When you re-assemble make sure the ring gaps are spaced evenly around the piston. ....If the ring gaps line up in a row, you will have a "smoker", not matter how good the rings, piston, or bore. .....Check the ring gaps by installing a ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it part down in the bore. ...This "squares-up" the ring for a more accurate reading.


(3)Should I replace the crank seal while I'm there??they didn't leak before. Yes! .....While the rear seal was not usually a problem area, the front seals on those Wisconsins would often leak. .....Now, is the best time to replace them both.

Crankshaft end-play is adjusted by the amount of gaskets used under the front bearing housing. ....You want some end-play, but it should not be excessive. .....You should use some gasket sealer on/under/between these gaskets, as they are prone to leakage.

As olcowhand already said, you should check the valve guides for wear. ....These were a common wear point on those engines. .....With the valve springs removed, drop the valve into its respective guide. .....Lift the valve off its seat approx 3/16"-1/4". ......Now, rock the valve side-to-side and front-to-back. .....There should be very little movement of the valve. ......Usually, guides wear very little side-to-side, but more in the direction toward-and-away from the piston. .....If the head of the valve moves more than 1/32"-1/16" the guide is worn and should be replaced. .....You can do this, and don't need to take it to a machine shop.


Hope this helps.
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