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Bolens Tube Frame Mower Deck With Worn Pulley And Shaft In Gearbox


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#16 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2016 - 07:08 PM

As I stated in the first post the case had a piece broken out of it where the input shaft seal goes so I had used a couple of pieces of cardboard, a socket, and some masking tape to make a form to shape the JB Weld after I filed and cleaned the area around the missing piece so the JB Weld had something to stick to (I had inserted a piece of towel inside the needle bearing to keep debris out of it).  I took one piece of cardboard and shaped it to conform to the inner part of the seal hole using a socket and another piece of cardboard to wedge it in place.  Then I taped another piece of cardboard to the outside of the case with masking tape.  After mixing the JB Weld I use a small flat screwdriver to force it into the area between the two pieces of cardboard making sure there was no air bubbles trapped.  Once the area was filled I set the case aside for a couple of days while I worked on the shaft and pulley.  Once it had sat for two days and appeared to be cured I removed the socket and used a utility knife to scrape the cardboard away from the JB Weld on the inside and outside.  Then I used a flat file to clean up the inside a bit and contour the outside to blend in with the case - after that it got a squirt of red paint.  Today in preparation for the seal I used the socket with a piece of 120 grit emery cloth wrapped around it to finish contouring the inside of the hole.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Piece Broken Out.jpg
  • 2 Piece Broken Out.jpg
  • 3 Cardboard Inside Case And Held WIth Socket.jpg
  • 4 Cardboard Shims Against Back Side Of Socket.jpg
  • 5 Cardboard Taped To Outside Of Case.jpg
  • 6 Area Filled With JB Weld.jpg
  • 7 JB Weld Cured Socket Removed And Cardboard Scraped With Knife.jpg
  • 8 Inside View.jpg
  • 9 Outside Filed.jpg
  • 10 Inside Scraped With File.jpg
  • 11 Red Paint Covers Repair.jpg
  • 12 Repair Painted.jpg
  • 13 Socket With Emery Cloth.jpg
  • 14 Inside Of Hole Contoured Where JB Weld Was Applied.jpg

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#17 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2016 - 07:27 PM

Then I pressed in two new seals for the input and output shaft, cut a new gasket for the case out of gasket material, cleaned and lubricated the thrust bearings and washers, lubricated the needle bearings and new seal lips with some 80W90 gear lube and inserted the input shaft and positioned the half moon key in the shaft.  Once that was done I got things ready to install the output shaft and discovered the hiccup in my shaft repair - the hole in the shaft for the roll pin was not in the centre of the shaft like I thought it was when I repaired it.  I double checked by trying to install the roll pin and found out it was off by about 1/16" and the roll pin bound at the edge of the gear when it was inserted through the shaft and trying to enter the hole in the gear.  I double checked the gear with the new shaft using a 1/4" drill bit and I could insert the drill bit by hand through the gear holes when it was on the new shaft but I could not do the same with the old repaired shaft.  At that point I consulted with my two associates who have been observing things at various stages of the repair as to what I should do to correct the problem with the hole alignment.  Blackie said "let me think on it" and Tiger said "I'm outa here" so I decided they were not going to be much help and took a break to see if I could come up with a plan "B".     

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Seal Part Number.jpg
  • 2 Output Shaft Seal Installed.jpg
  • 3 Input Shaft Seal Installed.jpg
  • 4 New Gasket Made.jpg
  • 5 Input Shaft With Gear Installed.jpg
  • 6 Input Shaft Key Installed.jpg
  • 7 Thrust Bearing And Washers For Output Shaft.jpg
  • 8 Output Shaft Gear.jpg
  • 9 Key In Shaft.jpg
  • 10 Pulley On Output Shaft.jpg
  • 11 My Associates.jpg
  • 12 My Associates Responses.jpg

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#18 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2016 - 08:05 PM

I debated about just using the new shaft but I decided I would try and repair the roll pin hole again so I drilled the hole in the shaft back out to 19/64", ground the edges of the hole, turned a new insert, pressed it in, welded it, let it cool, checked it for run out, straightened the shaft again and turned the welded area back down in the lathe.  Then I mounted the milling attachment on the lathe, mounted a 1/4" drill bit in the lathe chuck and using the new shaft clamped in the milling attachment positioned the shaft at the proper height for the drill bit to pass freely through the roll pin hole in it and locked the milling attachment at that height and tightened the screws on the cross slide to remove any play in it.  I removed the new shaft and placed the old shaft in the milling attachment at the correct depth so the hole would be in the proper location in relation to the end of the shaft and removed the 1/4' drill bit and mounted a 3/16" drill bit in the lathe chuck and drilled a hole through the side of the shaft by moving the carriage by hand towards the drill bit - I made sure to lubricate and clean out the hole every few seconds so the drill bit was cutting easily and straight into the shaft.  Once I had the 3/16" hole drilled I removed the shaft and placed the gear on it and using a 3/16" diameter punch checked to see how it looked as far as being centred for the holes in the gear.  It looked promising so I put the shaft back in the milling attachment making sure the 3/16" drill bit would pass through the hole easily to verify I got it back in the same position.  Then I removed the 3/16" drill bit and mounted the 1/4" bit in the lathe jaws and drilled the hole in the shaft out to 1/4".  I removed the shaft and tried the gear on it to see if I could insert the 1/4" drill bit by hand through the holes in the gear and shaft and it went which made me happy.  To verify that things were aligned I pressed the roll pin into the gear with it on the shaft and it went so I am hoping that I can now install the shaft back in the gear case tomorrow.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Turning Welded Shaft.jpg
  • 2 Drilling 3 16 Hole.jpg
  • 3 Ready To Drill 1 4 Hole.jpg
  • 4 Drill Bit Inserted By Hand.jpg
  • 5 Hole Alignment.jpg
  • 6 Shaft Beside New Shaft.jpg
  • 7 Shaft Beside New Shaft.jpg
  • 8 Roll Pin Now Fits.jpg
  • 9 Roll Pin Now Fits.jpg

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#19 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2016 - 06:31 PM

Got the shaft back in the case, roll pin installed, case bolted back on the support bracket and the pulley back on the shaft and snugged up the set screws.  Turned the input shaft by hand and everything feels good and the pulley is running very close to true again - has a very small wobble but not nearly as bad as it was before.  When I removed the U joint from the input shaft yoke one of the caps slipped out of my hand and fell and about 10 needles fell out of the cap - getting older does have it fun moments. I have hunted for the past few days for them and have found all but one so I bit the bullet and purchased a new u joint today so I should be able to put the input shaft back together now.  Before I went in to get the u joint I pulled two of the three spindles apart and inspected the bearings as they had a bit of play. Once I cleaned the old grease out the cups and cones looked good so I repacked them and put them back together - just have to do the third one now and sharpen the blades.  My thanks to Classic Bolens for the information sheet on how to set up the shafts and torque specs for the spindle bolts.  I also have to weld in a piece that is broken out of the belt guard at one of the bolt holes so I got some green paint mixed up in a spray bomb - will see how well it matches when I get that far.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Gears And Shaft Back In.jpg
  • 2 Case Back On Bracket And Pulley Installed.jpg
  • 3 Bottom Of Deck 2 Hubs Greased.jpg

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#20 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 06:27 PM

Got the third spindle bearings repacked, blades sharpened and back on, and checked the pulley height on the gear box.  It look good so I used some blue thread locker on the set screws and tightened them down.  Then I put the belt back on and put a new tensioner spring on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Thread Locker On Set Screws.jpg
  • 2 Screws Tightened.jpg
  • 3 Blades Back On.jpg
  • 4 Belt Back On.jpg
  • 5 New Tensioner Spring.jpg

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#21 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 06:38 PM

Then I moved on to repairing the piece that was broken out of the belt cover to the left of the gear box.  I had tried to weld the piece back in that broke out last year but it was thin and the weld broke again so I cut a bit more of the cover back to get back to some thicker metal.  Once the piece was cut back I cut a new piece out of some heavy sheet metal I had from the cover of an old electrical fuse panel, bent it and fit it to the area in the cover - I left it a little large on purpose.  I ground the area with the die grinder so the new piece fit fairly well, clamped it in place and welded it with the MIG welder. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Piece Broken Out Of Cover.jpg
  • 2 Piece Broken Out Of Cover.jpg
  • 3 Broken Area Cut Back.jpg
  • 4 Cut Out Piece.jpg
  • 5 New Piece Of Metal Cut Out.jpg
  • 6 New Piece Bent.jpg
  • 7 Test FIt.jpg
  • 8 Area Ground To Fit.jpg
  • 9 Clamped For Welding.jpg
  • 10 View From Back SIde.jpg
  • 11 Partially Welded Vise Grips Removed.jpg
  • 12 Finished Welded.jpg
  • 13 Finished Welded.jpg

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#22 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 06:39 PM

 Then the welds got ground down, cut off the excess material at the edges, marked and drilled the bolt hole.  Cleaned up and scuffed the area with a scotch brite pad, gave it a light coat of self etching primer and then painted it with the green spray bomb I had mixed up. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 2 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 3 Edges Trimmed.jpg
  • 4 Edges Trimmed.jpg
  • 5 Bolt Hole Location Marked.jpg
  • 6 Hole Drilled.jpg
  • 7 Light Coat Of Self Etching Primer.jpg
  • 8 First Coat Of Paint.jpg
  • 9 Second Coat Of Paint.jpg
  • 10 Second Coat Of Paint.jpg
  • 11 Spray Bomb Of Paint.jpg

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#23 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2016 - 06:53 PM

Here is a video of the pulley turning on the gear box with me turning the centre blade by hand.  There is very little wobble in the pulley and the tensioner spring is not flexing very much.  Before I did the repair the pulley and the spring were moving about 5/16" when the pulley was rotated.  I apologize for my shaky camera skills.

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, April 24, 2016 - 06:55 PM.

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#24 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 05:01 PM

Got the new u joint pressed in to the yoke and put the shaft back on the deck after I bolted the cover in place.  If you remove the yoke from the input shaft the cover can be removed and installed without loosening the bolts for the gear box but I think it is easier to just loosen the bolts than pull the yoke off.  Got the lift arms bolted back on, greased and changed the oil in the tractor and then put the deck back on - now I have to clean up the branches in the yard that fell off the trees this winter and I should be ready to cut some grass. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Drive Shaft Back On.jpg
  • 2 Cover Back On And Lift Arms Attached.jpg
  • 3 Deck Back On Tractor.jpg
  • 4 Deck Back On Tractor.jpg

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#25 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2016 - 09:18 PM

Well I had used the deck for three and a half cuts (takes about 6 hours each time) of the lawn this year and was hoping for a trouble free summer cutting grass.  The first cut about 3 weeks ago was interrupted about one third of the way through when the blades stopped turning.  I thought the worst and figured I had put something together wrong or the roll pin in the vertical shaft had broken but when I got the cover off it turned out the belt had broken (it looked ok when I put the deck back together but it had seen a few seasons so I just replaced it and put things back together.  It worked well till today when I took up from where I left off cutting on Friday - got about one round done and the blades stopped turning again - so I headed back to the shop to investigate.  I found that the roll pin that holds the PTO yoke on to the input shaft had left home and the half moon key had apparently left as well so the PTO yoke was spinning on the input shaft to the gear box.  I also found the seal on the input shaft had come out of the housing as well as about 3/16" of the input shaft needle bearing was now showing out past the end of the housing.  I removed the deck from the tractor and took the belt cover off and removed the gear box.  I then unbolted the gear box from the support and removed the vertical shaft so I could remove the input shaft and have a good look at things.  Once I removed the input shaft I found that the inner needle bearing had also moved forward about 3/16" which surprised and puzzled me as I had not disturbed the needle bearing when I replaced the input seal and they had worked fine for about the last ten years.  I checked the thrust bearing and the two washers that they run on and things looked good - there was no evidence of over heating or unusual wear.  I pondered to myself as to why the bearings had walked ahead thinking to myself there is nothing to create side pressure as the needle bearing washer butts up against the inside of the housing against a machined recess.  I discovered that the JB Weld had lost its bond and come off so I am fairly certain that is why the seal came out as it probably did not have enough pressure from the housing bore to maintain a press fit when things got warm.  I found I could also push in the outer needle bearing about 1/3 of the way into the housing so that may be why it walked forward as well but I am still unsure why the rear bearing moved as the needles were in good shape in both bearings and the inner bearing was a nice tight fit all the way.  I cleaned up the bearing bore and the outside of the bearings with a degreaser and pressed the two needle bearings back in to the housing.  I then ran a little green Loctite around the outer ends of both bearings to lock them in position and let them set for a little while and then I pressed the seal back in and ran a little green Loctite around the outside of it as well. Unfortunately I had left the camera in the house so I did not take any pictures of things to this point but since I had to go into the house any how for a bite to eat I grabbed the camera.

 


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#26 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2016 - 09:41 PM

I figured that JB Weld would not hold any better the second time so I opted to make a sleeve out of sheet metal to go around the outside of the gear box housing to keep it from expanding and put a little more pressure on the outer bearing and seal.  I went around the outside of the housing with a flat file to remove any ridges from the casting process and then I cut a piece of sheet metal about 7/8" wide and formed it to go around the outside of the housing.  Once it was rolled around and I found out where it would overlap I trimmed the excess off so that it would have about a 1/4" overlap.  Then I used the chain vise grips to squeeze it tight and make it a very tight fit and then I used the mig welded and welded the overlap and removed the chain vise grips.  Then I found another half moon key and roll pin and put the yoke back on the input shaft.  To make sure the roll pin stays put I put a piece of wire through the roll pin and then I put the gear box back on the deck.  I wondered if it might be the gear lube building up pressure on the input shaft bearings when hot but the vent hose and vent are working so it should vent the same way it has for years and the output shaft bearings and seal have not moved.  The other thing I thought about was the roll pin coming out on its own as it had never moved for years so I decided to install the new output shaft and pulley in case there was a balance problem that may have created a vibration that caused the roll pin and the needle bearings to walk. I then put the belt guard back on, put the deck back on the tractor and cut grass for about an hour tonight.  So far the seal is staying put and things look good - do not notice much difference as far as any vibrations go.  I also checked the PTO U joints and both have no play and the snap rings are all in place on the caps.  Will see what happens tomorrow as I still have about two hours cutting left.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Outer Area Of Housing Cleaned Up WIth File.jpg
  • 2 Needle Bearings Pressed Back In.jpg
  • 3 Sheet Metal To Make Collar.jpg
  • 4 Collar In Position.jpg
  • 5 Chain Vise Grips To Tighten Collar.jpg
  • 6 Close Up Of Chain Vise Grips.jpg
  • 7 Collar Welded With Mig At Join.jpg
  • 8 Wire Through Roll Pin.jpg
  • 9 Wire Through Roll Pin.jpg
  • 10 Deck Back Together.jpg

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#27 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2016 - 08:32 AM

Appreciate your positive attitude of " this can be fixed" without just going out and spending for new. Solutions looking good :thumbs:


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#28 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2016 - 12:20 PM

It looks like that it should hold up nicely this time. I've seen others use a hose clamp around the front of the gear case. I like your repair much better.
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#29 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2016 - 07:30 PM

It looks like that it should hold up nicely this time. I've seen others use a hose clamp around the front of the gear case. I like your repair much better.

Thanks - I thought about a hose clamp but was concerned that the clamp could loosen over time due to vibration.  Finished cutting the grass yesterday and so far so good.


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