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Bolens Tube Frame Mower Deck With Worn Pulley And Shaft In Gearbox


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#1 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2016 - 05:49 PM

It appears spring has finally arrived in Southwestern Ontario so I decided I had better start working on the lawn mower deck for my 1050.  Last year we had a wetter than normal summer which resulted in the deck getting a good work out and last fall the drive pulley on the lower shaft of the gearbox came loose and damaged the keyway in the pulley and the key seat in the shaft.  I had noticed when I overhauled in about 2005 that there was a bit of wear in the keyway but it had worked until last year although every few years the roll pin for the gear on the vertical shaft would break and I would have to take the gear box apart and replace it.  Last fall I did a quick fix by drilling another hole in the side of the pulley and adding a third set screw with the intentions of repairing it over the winter but that didn't quite happen.  About a month ago I checked with Rick Show and he had a new pulley and vertical shaft at a reasonable price so I purchased them from him along with a new key, roll pin and a new spring for the belt.  I compared the shaft and pulley today with mine and I think I can repair mine but I have the new pulley and shaft as a back up plan.  The one thing I did notice is the hole for the roll pin in the vertical shaft is worn compared with the new one (you can just put a 1/4" drill bit through the new one by hand - whereas the hole in my shaft is 1/64" larger) which is probably why the roll pin in mine has been breaking every few years.  The gears and the bearing in my gear box look to be in good shape so I will probably just leave them and replace the seals with new ones.  The case has a piece broken out of it where the input shaft seal goes so I think I will try and repair that with JB weld.  I had to use a puller to remove the PTO yoke on the horizontal shaft but the yoke came off fairly easy once the roll pin was removed - here are some pictures.  I think I will try and sleeve my old pulley and try to build up the shaft where the key seat is and recut a new key seat. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pulley Worn.jpg
  • 2 Pulling Yoke To Remove Horizontal Shaft.jpg
  • 3 Yoke Moved.jpg
  • 4 Key Removed And Piece Broken From Case.jpg
  • 5 New Pulley.jpg
  • 6 Old Pulley With Damaged Keyway.jpg
  • 7 New Shaft And Old Shaft With Damaged Key Seat.jpg
  • 8 New And Old Shaft.jpg
  • 9 New Shaft And Old Shaft With Worn Hole.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, April 17, 2016 - 10:59 AM.

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#2 petrj6 ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2016 - 06:40 PM

   I have had to do that to two or three shafts on my big ten, things wear out over the course of 45 years hard use.  god luck with it.

                                                                                              Pete


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#3 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2016 - 06:29 PM

Started to repair the shaft today.  The first step was to drill the roll pin hole out so that it was a uniform size all the way through - it cleaned up nice with a 19/64" drill bit.  Next I took a 5/16" grade 5 bolt and turned the head off it and then turned the outside so it was a nice press fit in the enlarged roll pin hole.  Then I cut the bolt 7/8" long and drilled a 1/8" centre hole in the centre of it - once I had that done I ground the worn key seat area of the shaft and the edge around the hole and pressed the bolt piece into the hole in the shaft.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 5 16 Bolt.jpg
  • 2 Bolt Turned To Hole Diameter.jpg
  • 3 Bolt Cut And Drillng 1 8 Hole.jpg
  • 4 Hole Drilled In Bolt.jpg
  • 5 Key Seat Area Ground Out.jpg
  • 6 Edge Of Roll Pin Hole Ground.jpg
  • 8 Bolt Piece Pressed In To Roll Pin Hole.jpg
  • 9 Bolt Piece Pressed In To Roll Pin Hole.jpg
  • 10 Side View.jpg

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#4 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2016 - 06:45 PM

I slid a worn out gear with a 3/4" hub over the area of the shaft where the bearing and seal run so that no weld splatter would end up on the shaft there and filled the key seat area back in with the mig welder and then built up the area where the pulley and the gear sit and let things cool down while I greased the 1050 and did some other tasks.  Once it was cool I stuck it in the lathe and realized that I would have to turn one of the welded area before I could check the bearing area for run out from the heat of the welding (one of these days I will learn to think ahead).  I decided I would check the shaft for run out where I had not welded it and it showed about .006" runout so I decided to turn the weld at the pulley end so that I could remove the gear hub.  I turned the pulley area to .750" and then removed the gear hub figuring that if worst came to worst I could always build that area back up again and turn it back down if there was too much runout at that end.  I checked the bearing area and it showed about .006" runout as well so I turned the rear area down a bit so that I would have an even surface in the centre to press on and stuck it in my small press with the 2 ton jack and gave it a bit of pressure in the centre while I supported the ends and got the runout down to about .002" at the bearing areas and the pulley area which I thought was tolerable. So I turned the gear area down to .750" and polished the shaft.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Gear Collar Over Bearing And Seal Surface.jpg
  • 2 Shaft Areas Built Up WIth Mig Welder.jpg
  • 3 Gear Area.jpg
  • 4 Pulley Area.jpg
  • 5 Shaft Runout After Welding.jpg
  • 6 Shaft Runout After Welding.jpg
  • 7 Pulley End Turned And Getting Ready To Straighten.jpg
  • 8 Gear Area Partially Turned straightend And Run Out After.jpg
  • 9 Runout After Straightening.jpg
  • 10 Gear Area Close To Correct Size.jpg
  • 11 Polishing Shaft.jpg
  • 12 Shaft Polished.jpg

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#5 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2016 - 07:31 PM

Once the shaft was the correct size again I used the 1/8" hole to index the shaft to drill the roll pin hole back to 1/4" in the drill press.  One it was indexed and clamped in the drill press vise I drilled it out to 3/16" and then took it up to 1/4" 1/64" at a time.  Then I decided to try and recut the keyway.  Since I do not have a 3/16" keyseat cutter I mounted the 1/8" one I do have in the lathe and using the new shaft figured out where the left side of the key seat should be in relation to the shaft mounted in the milling attachment by turning the cutter by hand to see when it came up against the left side of the key seat in the new shaft (I also determined the finished depth of the key seat by turning the cutter by hand and raising the shaft up until the cutter started to touch the bottom of the key seat).  I then removed the new shaft and mounted the old one in the milling attachment and cut a 1/8" key seat down to within .010" of the bottom of the cut and then withdrew the cutter from the key seat by lowering the shaft.  I mounted the dial gauge and zerod the dial and then unlocked the bed carriage and used the dial guage to determine how far to move the lathe carriage over to the left to get a 3/16" wide key seat and then relocked the carriage again and then cut the right side of the key seat down to the bottom.  Once I had that done I unlocked the carriage and moved it back and finished cutting the left side of the key seat to the finished depth.  When I was done I compared it with the new shaft - the key 3/16" woodruff key is a nice snug fit in the key seats in both shafts.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Using Hole To Line Up Shaft In Drill Press.jpg
  • 2 Hole Drilled To 3 16.jpg
  • 3 1 4 Hole Compared With New Shaft.jpg
  • 4 Carriage Moved Sideways Measured With Dial Guage.jpg
  • 5 Cutting Second Half Of Key Seat.jpg
  • 6 Cutting Second Half Of Keyseat.jpg
  • 7 Finished Key Seat.jpg
  • 8 Repaired Shaft Compared With New Shaft.jpg
  • 9 Close Up Of Key Seats.jpg

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#6 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2016 - 10:52 PM

Fantastic work and write up, per usual. You are truly skilled and I really enjoy reading of your repairs.
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#7 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2016 - 11:03 PM

Ditto here too very well done.
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#8 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2016 - 08:26 AM

Great Work!

Its the guys like you that help keep these machines going for the future, so many would have scrapped what you are fixing!


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#9 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2016 - 12:52 PM

Great Work!

Its the guys like you that help keep these machines going for the future, so many would have scrapped what you are fixing!

Thanks for the kind words.  One of the main reasons I post repairs like this is to show that if something is broken or worn there is another option rather than just throwing up ones hands and saying time to scrap it and go and buy a new mower or tractor and lose a piece of history.  It is my hope that people will discover that what seems like a major obstacle can be repaired by the average person with some mechanical ability (I am not a machinist), a little bit of resourcefulness and a few machine shop services (if they do not have the equipment) - forums like this are what makes the internet so valuable as information like this can be shared so easily with people all over the world and be available long after I am gone.  Bolens products such as this were designed and built to have a long life if looked after properly and also to be repaired if and when the time came in my opinion unlike todays "sell it cheap and often" products.  While some of the parts are becoming harder to find they can still be had thanks to people like you and Rick Show taking the time to source new suppliers and find NOS from old dealers.  I know most people dislike the use of the word "rare" but in my opinion what is "Rare in the Bolens world" are some of the "hard" parts that are no longer being made (such as the three gear cluster for a 6 speed tubeframe) and that eventually will cause people to park machines and equipment in the corner for the scrap man to collect and destroy forever - it is my hope that posts like this will prevent that from happening as long as possible.  And who knows what the future will bring in 10 to 20 years - maybe by then I can take my old TRA10D Wisconsin down to the local computer store and for $200.00 they can take detailed pictures and feed the information into a computer and a machine will spit out a brand new replica complete with metallic brown paint and matching carb.


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#10 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2016 - 07:35 PM

Started to work on repairing the pulley today.  I thought about just broaching another keyway in the pulley but since the pulley had been loose I figured the bore was probably out of round and a quick check in the lathe confirmed this so I took the easy way (I think) out to fix it.  I had an extra 3/4" weld on V hub that I use for the small gears on the snow blower and since it already was the correct bore and had they keyway already in it I turned the step off of the hub to make it a uniform size. I bored the inside of the pulley to .002" smaller than the outside of the hub for a press fit.  I then machined a recess in the bottom of the pulley so that I could weld the hub at the bottom - the hub was a little shorter than the pulley but where the set screw holes were located it was almost flush at the bottom when they lined up.  I lined the keyway up with the set screw hole in the hub (I thought) and then I started to press the hub into the pulley using the bench vise and got it within 1/4" of where I wanted it but I was afraid of breaking the vise and the pulley so I used the press the rest of the way and supported the recess at the top of the pulley with a socket so that when I pressed the hub in I was not applying any pressure to the outer (V belt) part of the pulley - did not want to end up with a broken pulley.  When I got the hub where I wanted it I found out I was a little off on the set screw hole location so I had to press things back apart and rotate the hub a little bit so the hole in the hub was centred with the hole in the pulley.  As you can see in picture 11 the holes in the pulley are larger than the ones in the hub but it is close to being centred.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hub Part Number.jpg
  • 2 V Hub.jpg
  • 3 Hub Set On End Of Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Turning Step Off.jpg
  • 5 Step Turned Off.jpg
  • 6 Hub Ready To Be Pressed Into Pulley.jpg
  • 7 Starting To Bore Pulley.jpg
  • 8 Pulley Bored For Hub.jpg
  • 9 Recess Turned For Weld.jpg
  • 10 Hub Pressed Into Pulley.jpg
  • 11 Hole In Hub For Keyway Centred In Hole In Pulley.jpg
  • 12 Hub Pressed Into Pulley Top View.jpg

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#11 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2016 - 07:40 PM

Then I welded the bottom of the pulley and hub and did a couple of short welds at the top of the hub to the pulley bore as well as filling in the groove where the pulley had rubbed on the deck when it was loose.  Then I ground the welds off with the die grinder and used a file to clean out the weld spatter at the edges of the hub bore so the shaft would fit inside.  Hopefully tomorrow I can drill and tap the holes in the hub for the set screws, 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hub Welded To Pulley.jpg
  • 2 Hub Welded To Pulley Top View.jpg
  • 3 Welded Areas Ground Down.jpg
  • 4 Welded Areas Ground Down.jpg
  • 5 Weld Filed At Edges Of Hub.jpg

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#12 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2016 - 07:46 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  One of the main reasons I post repairs like this is to show that if something is broken or worn there is another option rather than just throwing up ones hands and saying time to scrap it and go and buy a new mower or tractor and lose a piece of history.  It is my hope that people will discover that what seems like a major obstacle can be repaired by the average person with some mechanical ability (I am not a machinist), a little bit of resourcefulness and a few machine shop services (if they do not have the equipment) - forums like this are what makes the internet so valuable as information like this can be shared so easily with people all over the world and be available long after I am gone.  Bolens products such as this were designed and built to have a long life if looked after properly and also to be repaired if and when the time came in my opinion unlike todays "sell it cheap and often" products.  While some of the parts are becoming harder to find they can still be had thanks to people like you and Rick Show taking the time to source new suppliers and find NOS from old dealers.  I know most people dislike the use of the word "rare" but in my opinion what is "Rare in the Bolens world" are some of the "hard" parts that are no longer being made (such as the three gear cluster for a 6 speed tubeframe) and that eventually will cause people to park machines and equipment in the corner for the scrap man to collect and destroy forever - it is my hope that posts like this will prevent that from happening as long as possible.  And who knows what the future will bring in 10 to 20 years - maybe by then I can take my old TRA10D Wisconsin down to the local computer store and for $200.00 they can take detailed pictures and feed the information into a computer and a machine will spit out a brand new replica complete with metallic brown paint and matching carb.

Excellent work :thumbs: and this paragraph says it all, thanks for posting :worshippy1:


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2016 - 05:39 AM

Nice fix!


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#14 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2016 - 06:37 PM

Nice fix!

Thanks for the kind words but I found out there was a slight hiccup in my repair plan for the shaft which I will explain in a couple of posts.



#15 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2016 - 06:52 PM

Started working on the pulley holes this morning.  First I verified the threads in the pulley were 3/8" UNC and then took a 3/8" course thread bolt and drilled a 15/64" hole in the centre of it in the lathe.  Then I threaded the bolt into one of the holes and clamped the pulley in the vise on the drill press using the hole to line up the drill bit - note the use of a wood wedge at the end of the pulley for support while the hole was drilled.  This method used the hole in the bolt to centre the drill in the threaded hole of the pulley and I drilled a 15/64" hole through the hub part.  The bolt was then removed and a 5/16" drill bit was used to enlarge the hole in the hub to the correct size for tapping the threads - since the 15/64" hole was already centred in the hub part the larger drill did not disturb the threads in the pulley as it was guided by the initial hole.  When I did the temporary repair last fall I drilled and threaded a third hole in the pulley to add a third set screw to secure the pulley so I did the remaining two holes in the hub the same way which left me with three holes to tap threads in.  I then used a 3/8" UNC tap and threaded the holes to finish the pulley. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 3 8 Bolt WIth Hole Drilled.jpg
  • 2 Bolt Threaded Into Pulley And Set Up In Drill Press.jpg
  • 3 Wood Wedge For Support.jpg
  • 4 Bolt Removed And DrillingWIth 5 16 Drill Bit.jpg
  • 5 Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 6 Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 7 Holes Tapped.jpg
  • 8 Holes Tapped.jpg

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