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New guy with a '68 MF10 project


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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 03:23 PM

You have enough slack for the belt to stop turning, the factor setup has a belt guide that goes around the crank pulley and acts like a brake to stop the belt when it is released.

Maybe you could make some guides to do the same thing. ???



#17 Bluenoser OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 03:46 PM

I'll look around and see if I can find a picture of that to see if I can fab one. Mean time I disconnected the brake rod and drove it around the yard shifting perfectly, Clutch activated perfectly and all belts stopped turning right. Variable speeds even worked right. Looking at the operator's manual photo of the drive system it shows the pedal sitting at the back end of the loop on the end of the brake rod, on mine it will never go like that, the rod is always pulled tight to the tip. 

Untitled_1.png

 

I did notice, for whatever reason, someone in the past cut down the adjustable end of the brake rod. Adjusted out all the way it's not enough to allow a full range of motion on the pedal. Perhaps a new brake rod adjusted out will take care of it?

temporary_257.jpg


Edited by Bluenoser, April 13, 2016 - 04:00 PM.

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#18 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 06:40 PM

They might of tried adjusting it and it snapped off the rod,and didn't bother fixing it properly.


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#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 08:12 PM

Here are some random pics from the site with that side of the engine in them.

http://gardentractor...-1346542797.jpg

http://i271.photobuc...21/Photo061.jpg

http://gardentractor...ge-5#entry19791

http://gardentractor...ge-4#entry12552
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#20 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2016 - 07:00 AM

I'll look around and see if I can find a picture of that to see if I can fab one. Mean time I disconnected the brake rod and drove it around the yard shifting perfectly, Clutch activated perfectly and all belts stopped turning right. Variable speeds even worked right. Looking at the operator's manual photo of the drive system it shows the pedal sitting at the back end of the loop on the end of the brake rod, on mine it will never go like that, the rod is always pulled tight to the tip. 

Untitled_1.png

 

I did notice, for whatever reason, someone in the past cut down the adjustable end of the brake rod. Adjusted out all the way it's not enough to allow a full range of motion on the pedal. Perhaps a new brake rod adjusted out will take care of it?

temporary_257.jpg

A piece of all-thread and a coupler should take care of the broken brake rod. I have to change out the main drive belt on my MF10, been soaking the brake rod with Kroil for the last few days in preparation. Nice tractor you have there. :thumbs:


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#21 Bluenoser OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2016 - 07:31 PM

Well no one around town had a 1/4" fine thread coupler so I bought a piece of threaded rod and just took a couple nuts and put it together to try. Obviously couldn't hold the strain by a couple threads and didn't hold up long but it did work. I took the rest of my piece of threaded rod and bent an oval shape at one end and cut it to length at the other and we have clutch. Need to do some slight adjusting to get it just right and find someone with a welder to tack the loop tight. I am also going to try to make a belt guide as DH1 suggested as it takes a while for the belt to stop spinning before I can shift gears.

 

Anyways just want to thank everyone for the welcomes and input. Hate to be that new guy who just shows up to the forum begging for help. Very much appreciated.

temporary_259.jpg


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#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2016 - 09:03 PM

Just happy to hear that it all worked out well
Stick around put your feet up and enjoy the place, lots of good folks here
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#23 MFDAC OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2016 - 03:33 PM

Well no one around town had a 1/4" fine thread coupler so I bought a piece of threaded rod and just took a couple nuts and put it together to try. Obviously couldn't hold the strain by a couple threads and didn't hold up long but it did work. I took the rest of my piece of threaded rod and bent an oval shape at one end and cut it to length at the other and we have clutch. Need to do some slight adjusting to get it just right and find someone with a welder to tack the loop tight. I am also going to try to make a belt guide as DH1 suggested as it takes a while for the belt to stop spinning before I can shift gears.

 

Anyways just want to thank everyone for the welcomes and input. Hate to be that new guy who just shows up to the forum begging for help. Very much appreciated.
 

Hello, welcome from South Dakota! Looks like you are getting your 10G figured out, but here is a link to pics of the belt guard for the vari-drive. I had to modify it for the new engine and maybe the pics will help you visualize how the guard rubs the belt to stop it. I'm pretty sure the 10 and 12 are pretty similar in design in this area.

 

I put a new front vari-drive belt on during this swap too and it did require an adjustment in the vari-drive position as well as the brake too.

 

http://gardentractor...re-power/page-3

 

Go down to post #39 to view the pics of the guard.

 

Hope this helps even though it's a 12G.

 

EDIT--Oh yeah as far as begging for help, I have done plenty here and these folks are ALWAYS happy to give great advice!

 

DAC


Edited by MFDAC, April 16, 2016 - 03:35 PM.

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#24 Bluenoser OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2016 - 09:06 PM

Thanks, I should be able to slap something together based off of that. Won't be pretty but it'll work lol


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