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New to the forum! Midland Walk tractor Help

3K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  hbryant123 
#1 ·
I got an old midland walk behind tractor, it came with my house! I have the mower, harrow, sickle bar, sulky and disc! So far i love this machine, it has a briggs on it, not sure of the horse power!

I cleaned the points, filled the tank and a shot of start fluid and it started and ran decent for not being started in 40 years. I was able to get it going well enough to pull itself out of my garage.

The questions I have is where can i get information about how everything on the machine is supposed to work? for example the brakes? does it even have one? i took it for a spin with the sulky and going down it hill it was pretty scary!

The throttle cable is there and is free, but i am not sure were or how it hooks up? I throttled it up by clamping small vice grips on a rod near the carb!

I do not plan to restore it, i want to fix it up a little and use it around my property. I definitely want power wash the years of grime off of it!

I will be working on adding pics for everyone to see!

thanks in advance for anyhelp!
 
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#4 ·
Hello I'm fairly new my self so some one else will point you to the manuals section, no breaks, the throttle cable pulls on a spring hooked to the governor,the governor pulls on wire linkage to throttle on carb. sounds like a very nice tractor.(warning,this site and old iron are habit forming).
 
#11 ·
Hello I'm fairly new my self so some one else will point you to the manuals section, no breaks, the throttle cable pulls on a spring hooked to the governor,the governor pulls on wire linkage to throttle on carb. sounds like a very nice tractor.(warning,this site and old iron are habit forming).
Hey thanks, I looked at my tractor after work, i got off real late, i see one spring and a rod that goes next to the carb, then a rod that connects to the carb, still not sure where the cable hooks, im gunna try and upload pics!
 
#14 ·
a close up of carb will tell everything, model and serial number on engine will tell year and if its correct for tractor, a lot of times a repowered tractor will be lacking in detail, look for anything that pulls on linkage with spring
I will work on finding id plates, i uploaded a few pics, from what ive found the engine is origional, judging by photos and from people who used it in the past!
 
#15 ·
The cable go's next to the vertical throttle rod straight down and held in place with a half strap and small screw (if missing look for small round hole with threads with square hole approximately 1/2in. away with horizontal relationship) pulling up and down on square throttle adjust nut and a good drop light will show you how it works, when right the vertical rod with nut move's with throttle, throttle is adjusted with half strap and cable housing, I'll look tomorrow on some engines to be sure
 
#16 ·
Nice looking tractor!
 
#17 ·
In your third picture, the rod coming up through the bracket with the square top on it. The cable should come up from the bottom through the holes beside it and is held with cable nuts. The cable needs a 90 degree bend and go through the hole that can be seen in the square block. The block will need to be turned toward the cable and the set screw in the top holds it. It should be a model 14 Briggs. There is a good manual for that engine here that should show it, http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/4813-briggs9to30pt-1-and-pt2/
 
#21 ·
This is one of them, if Doug t says it then that is the way it should be.I'll have to find another reason to dig through my engine pile now
I don't know that I'd agree with that statement. I've been known to be wrong before, especially the older I get and the more feeble my mind becomes.

The two jam nuts in pic belong together on the top flange(I think), one on top one underneath,I'll get Doug approved sooner or later
I'm glad I didn't deprive you of an excuse to dig through your engines. I've seen the nuts placed both ways. I don't suppose it really makes a difference as long as you keep the cable from moving either direction.
 
#24 ·
On your carb question, I start by giving both jets two full turns out from bottom, set the high speed first(float bowl jet on bottom) with engine at full throttle (black smoke is to rich) then adjust low speed as you bring the rpms down, then repeat, should end up somewear between 1-11/2 turns out on both on average, but can be more or less on both,no two engines are exactly the same on this
 
#25 ·
On your carb question, I start by giving both jets two full turns out from bottom, set the high speed first(float bowl jet on bottom) with engine at full throttle (black smoke is to rich) then adjust low speed as you bring the rpms down, then repeat, should end up somewear between 1-11/2 turns out on both on average, but can be more or less on both,no two engines are exactly the same on this
I will give it a try! I finally have some free time tomorrow! After i repalce the brake belt im going to start messing with the mower!
 
#26 ·
Little update, i did not mess with my carb any but i did hook up the mower, it is 28 inches long and the deck is clean and made from aluminum! very well made in my opinion! I had it running and she mowed well!

I have a couple questions to ask, I read the transmission requires #2 cup Grease, were can i get this or the equivalent?

I am also interested in my options as far as restoring the tractor, were can i get parts? should i just buy parts tractors?
 
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