Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo

Anyone had a busted tooth on a steering rack repaired?


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,306 Thanks
  • 934 posts

Posted April 08, 2016 - 09:10 AM

I had a few teeth bust off a steering rack for an FF. I welded it up but dont have the equipment to recut the grooves. I was wondering if anyone had something like that done at a machine shop and how much it cost, or if it would be cheaper to find a used one.

 

I started out trying to rebuild the teeth and ended up filling in the grooves. I will probably grind it back off and redo it all in one bead. I think the first attempt will have weak spots.

 

20160408 090128

 



#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

crittersf1

    GT Lunatic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 26142
  • 4,167 Thanks
  • 5,759 posts
  • Location: Newport, N.C.

Posted April 08, 2016 - 09:14 AM

Dremel style grinder and a file


  • michael.kitko said thank you

#3 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,306 Thanks
  • 934 posts

Posted April 08, 2016 - 09:25 AM

That was my initial thoughts but wasnt sure I could get the precision needed to get it right and not wear out the pinion.



#4 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

JD DANNELS

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2011
  • 3,786 Thanks
  • 3,907 posts
  • Location: Newton.Ia

Posted April 08, 2016 - 10:19 AM

Have you tried to buy a new rack and pinion? I helped my dad replace one in his craftsman and it was not that expensive.

We also replaced the bushings that let it run out of line and strip the teeth.

I am sure it can be rebuilt and filed to fit, but getting it hardened and annealed so it does not break again could be trickey.

Casenite might allow you to case harden the teeth?



#5 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 3,117 Thanks
  • 1,203 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted April 08, 2016 - 10:21 AM

I redid the spline on my PTO shaft using a die grinder with a 3" cutoff blade http://gardentractor...o-shaft-repair/ - check out post #8.  I would suggest taking some light cardboard (old cereal box) and drawing the teeth profile from a good section on it - overlap a few teeth either side and then cut out the teeth profile in the cardboard with a pair of tin snips or utility knife.  Do two pieces of cardboard and tape or clamp them to the sides of your gear over the section that you welded - make sure you include enough extra teeth in the pattern so you can match them up with the good teeth on either side of the welded area.  That way should give you a pattern that will give you the teeth spaced correctly and square to the gear.  You could rough cut the teeth profile with a hacksaw and then finish shaping them with a file or take the arbor out of the die grinder and chuck it in a variable speed electric drill.  The drill will let you control the speed of the wheel which will help control the amount of material you grind away with the cutoff wheel. Hope this helps.


  • Gtractor, limebuzz, Alc and 4 others have said thanks

#6 Bud W OFFLINE  

Bud W

    New Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2359
  • 228 Thanks
  • 217 posts
  • Location: Cly, Pennsylvania

Posted April 08, 2016 - 03:23 PM

i had my friend weld and grind a couple of teeth on the pitman arm gear on one of my Bolens 1256's. It was the "radial" teeth, not the ones on the column. It works fine.


  • limebuzz said thank you

#7 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

michael.kitko
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 28357
  • 472 Thanks
  • 445 posts
  • Location: Gales Ferry, CT

Posted April 09, 2016 - 07:07 AM

If you don't have a lathe or mill, completely agree with all of the above. Grind or file them out by hand. It takes time, but it can be done. Case in point, one time this nipple on a submarine engine room on a pipe had the first three threads cross threaded. It was deemed more cost effective to grind it out by hand. That nipple stayed that way for 4 years.

Mike "Squirrelly" Kitko

#8 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,306 Thanks
  • 934 posts

Posted April 09, 2016 - 03:46 PM

I talked to a guy at work that is a good machinist. He says he can do it on the mill with a fly cutter.


  • michael.kitko said thank you

#9 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,306 Thanks
  • 934 posts

Posted June 26, 2016 - 02:21 PM

** Moved from the other thread**

 

This may work. http://www.stollerla...ductid=-1001971

 

Edited by larrybl, June 17, 2016 - 01:02 PM.

 

 

Posted June 17, 2016 - 01:11 PM

I found one of those on feebay for $29. The ID is wrong but everything else looks right. I can bore it out to .750 easier than I can cut new teeth. I took a chance on it and if it works out, I will take some pics and add it to my old thread about (not) welding it up and re cutting the teeth

 

 

 

I got the part yesterday. I got the rivets for the arm drilled out and removed. The shaft actually mics out to 7/8". The hole is 1/2" and this gear is hard as hell. The 7/8" drill wouldnt even scratch it and busted the cutter when trying to cut the hole on the lathe. Other than that... everything else should work

 

sml_gallery_62468_719_8932.jpg
 

Here is a link to what I bought and part number for when someone is digging through old posts trying to find steering parts for an old FF

 

10-6887 AYP, Sears 102787X Steering Sector

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 
 
****
I got the hole drilled out today. I bought a 7/8" carbide tipped concrete hammer drill bit and used it in a cheapy HF drill press. (here is a pic for the guys with the BS flags ready to fly) 
ssff18
 
The only problem was the 7/8 bit wasnt .875.. it was .900. In hind sight, I could have ground a few thou off the end of the carbide, but it needs to be welded any way. I may throw some shim stock or JB weld in to tighten it up before I weld it. The guy "did me a favor" by cutting out the old weld on the lathe without match marking the gear to the shaft, so I have to put it back in the tractor and clock the gear to the shaft with the steering centered before I can weld it back up.

 


Edited by tater195, June 26, 2016 - 02:30 PM.

  • Alc and KennyP have said thanks

#10 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,306 Thanks
  • 934 posts

Posted August 08, 2016 - 06:50 PM

Just now getting around to putting this back together. Found out the block that holds the shaft for the steering sector and pinion gear is sloppy.... and hardened. The right way would be to machine it oversized and put in a bushing. That is beyond the range of my equipment. Plan B was to flip it over... no threads on that side, hardened and cant tap new threads. Plan B.1, drill out the hole and put a nut on the back side.... refer to the reasons plan A and B wont work.

 

Looks like I am back in the market for used Roper steering parts. I cant even find a part # for the stupid thing.

 

 

20160808 183803

Edited by tater195, August 08, 2016 - 06:54 PM.





Top