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Need help! 77 Economy Tractor


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#1 msta999 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 12:55 AM

Hi, great forum, lots of good info.

My problem: I bought a Econo Tractor with a broken rod (K321S). I took it apart and it didn't look that bad. The rod had broke, but everything else looked buildable. I had the crank ground and the cylinder bored out and started putting it back together. I am having trouble with the gov. linkage, can't remember where the last link for the linkage goes. Does anyone have one of these tractors, they can post a pic of the linkage assembly? Also, I can't find any info for the correct position of the clutch/pully assembly on the crankshaft. Do I just line up the one set screw with the indent on the crank? Seems to have a little too much clutch peddle play if I do that......


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#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 05:23 AM

Welcome to GTTalk  I think your best bet on the governor would be to download the service manual for your engine and set it back to the factory specs .Correct rod placement  I was using mine for a few years , always thinking it was a weak engine , turned out the governor needed to be readjusted to specs . I'm sure there are members here who will be able to answer the clutch question


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 06:21 AM

Welcome to GTT. That is a great tractor. You are best off to follow the advice above. Go to our Manuals Section and download the tractor and engine manuals that you need. Kohler engines can be a little finicky about correct assembly so follow the directions very carefully. VERY IMPORTANT: new rods require a double torquing technigue. BEWARE of the grenade gears, they are the balance gears and when they fail they blow the engine ruining the block. Many guys just remove them but the engine will then vibrate more.  Ask when you have questions. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, April 07, 2016 - 06:23 AM.

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#4 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 06:24 AM

Seems to me there is a snap ring that goes on the flywheel itself that stops the flywheel where it needs to be.  It's been a LOOOOOONG time since I've had one of these apart but I do seem to remember that snap ring.  A manual will have a break down of the clutch area.  As far as the governor is concerned, I think they are all pretty engine specific and setting it back to factory would be the ideal place to start as stated.  Good luck.


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#5 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 07:14 AM

If you have had the flywheel off? there is a snap ring down inside the center hole that is the stop for sliding it on the shaft and bumping the end of shaft onto the snap-ring. You may also have a grease seal on outside of same center hole covering the ring making it unseeable from that direction. Take good light and look down the center hole from both ways to see it.  It may be there, but kinda mashed in sideways because of pushing on the clutch pedal. Doesn't take much of a bend in the clip to make a bigger space on the pedal movement.  Takes a standard ring, buy anywhere. Recommend changing if all apart. Sometimes once that is changed and slid back on the shaft, you can drill a small dent in the shaft down thru the set screw hole to kind of locate it. Set screw tip then sets into that hole when tightened. There are two set screws. One goes into the shaft, other one just pushes into the key stock there. No need to divot the key stock. Other items like the throw-out bearing holder (cast) and the fork ends that ride on it may also be worn and need welding build up or replacement if too loose.


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#6 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 08:37 AM

:welcometogttalk: :camera:



#7 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 08:51 AM

Governor adjustment.

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  • Governor.jpg

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#8 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2016 - 12:53 PM

Hi msta999, welcome to the Power King club and the group, just follow the advice in the posts and you'll be up and running in no time.

Here's some clutch sheets:

Attached File  Clutch 3.pdf   1.68MB   36 downloadsAttached File  Clutch Flywheel Installation Instructions.pdf   430.89KB   41 downloads


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#9 msta999 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 12:17 AM

Thanks all, I do have the manual, but my gov linkage has an extra link and there are 3 or 4 holes it can be screwed to. I don't have the carb on yet, waiting for a new one. I think once I get the carb on, I'll be able to tell where the 2nd link bolts to. It doesn't show the second link in the manual. The second link is where the throttle cable connects.

 

I am having trouble putting the shields back on. I have the front one, covering the flywheel on, then there are two little covers on each side of the engine, then a larger one with three holes in it that is on top, then there is a big once that covers the top and back of the engine. I can't get it to fit right, the small cover on the left side (if your sitting in the seat) is in the way. I have checked youtube videos, but none of them have the big cover. I should have taken a pic to make sure it went together right, but I didn't think of it.

 

I adjusted the clutch so it has about 3/4 inch of free travel, but I'll print the manual for the clutch that was posted here, to make sure it is correct.

 

Thanks for the help. Yes, I am excited to get this little tractor going/working.



#10 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 04:25 AM

Usually you can look at paint wear to see how the sheilds fit together and even where to hook up the governor.  That's what I used to do anyway.


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#11 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 07:25 AM

I'm not following you on clutch free play, there is no free play that I know of on these clutches. As for the cooling tins the side ones I install before the flywheel housing and the Kohler top one slips down over the 2 side cover screws, the PK (large one covers the engine and is the last to go on after the carb etc as it covers the carb exhaust etc, the exhaust is very close if its not the original setup it will require some work to get it all to fit. I'll post a picture of the throttle linkage maybe it will help.100_0477.jpg


Edited by MNGB, April 08, 2016 - 09:59 AM.

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#12 msta999 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 09:48 AM

I stripped the paint off and painted all the covers.

 

Thanks for the pic, that is exactly what I needed. I have to pull the covers off and put them on correctly.

Thanks for helping me out. I need to use the tractor to put new gravel on the driveway and I am putting up about 400 ft of chain link fence this spring or I would have taking it all apart, cleaned and painted the whole thing. I hope to make that a winter project. my plan is to, eventually, make it look like new.....we'll see. I have been thinking about looking for a mower deck for it, that would be a nice addition, but probably won't find one up here in Alaska.....but I might.



#13 msta999 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 09:49 AM

Welcome to GTT. That is a great tractor. You are best off to follow the advice above. Go to our Manuals Section and download the tractor and engine manuals that you need. Kohler engines can be a little finicky about correct assembly so follow the directions very carefully. VERY IMPORTANT: new rods require a double torquing technigue. BEWARE of the grenade gears, they are the balance gears and when they fail they blow the engine ruining the block. Many guys just remove them but the engine will then vibrate more.  Ask when you have questions. Good Luck, Rick

Where can I find the manuals section? I try'd looking around, but didn't find it.



#14 msta999 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 09:58 AM

If you have had the flywheel off? there is a snap ring down inside the center hole that is the stop for sliding it on the shaft and bumping the end of shaft onto the snap-ring. You may also have a grease seal on outside of same center hole covering the ring making it unseeable from that direction. Take good light and look down the center hole from both ways to see it.  It may be there, but kinda mashed in sideways because of pushing on the clutch pedal. Doesn't take much of a bend in the clip to make a bigger space on the pedal movement.  Takes a standard ring, buy anywhere. Recommend changing if all apart. Sometimes once that is changed and slid back on the shaft, you can drill a small dent in the shaft down thru the set screw hole to kind of locate it. Set screw tip then sets into that hole when tightened. There are two set screws. One goes into the shaft, other one just pushes into the key stock there. No need to divot the key stock. Other items like the throw-out bearing holder (cast) and the fork ends that ride on it may also be worn and need welding build up or replacement if too loose.

I already had it together when I found this forum. I didn't look down the center of the flywheel (we are talking about the part with the pullys, just in front of the clutch, correct?), I just cleaned it out with some sand paper and a rag. 

I did put it together by the book, just to make sure I didn't miss something.



#15 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2016 - 10:01 AM

Here's the manual section      http://gardentractor...r-king-economy/






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