With help from LPbolens and all the detailed photos and measurements that he provided me in this post:
I was able to fabricate a few pieces and get my Hyro_seed Blade/Rake set up in mid-mount position on my 853. In an attempt to pay back the favor I will detail out what I had to do to make this all work. Hopefully others will be able to use this information.
I was missing two pieces. I'll call them the 'lift plate' and the 'lift link'. The lift plate is a triangle looking piece that bolts directly onto the lift tool of the tractor. I used a combination of Doug's measurements and the photos from the Hydro-seed manuals that were posted here.
Lift plate was 1/4" diamond plate steel that I had kicking around, probably overkill but the plasma cutter just made it through
Lift link was 1/4" X 1 1/2" flat bar steel from Lowes
The first thing I did was make a cardboard template of the lift plate. Then I made a template of the lift link. This lift link is an unknown as Doug was also missing his. So, my advise when making this is to make the template of the lift link with the lift system in the RAISED position. The reason behind this is because you do not want your implement to be able to raise too high as it will raise the blade so high as to jam up into the frame of the tractor. I learned all of this in the cardboard template stage of my experimenting.
Note in the pictures of the system in the LOWERED position that there will be some lift cylinder rod sticking out of the cylinder. This is fine and hence the reason for insuring that you make the link link template while in the RAISED position. This also gives the blade down pressure when center mounted (I was pleasantly surprised to find that out)
The angle of the lift plate holes was the most important piece of this entire puzzle. It needs to be the correct angle in order to get proper lift and clearance.
After the pieces were made I slid the center mount frame under the tractor with the rake attached to it. I put pins in the rear axle tabs and mounted the frame. Now I had a frame that would pivot on the rear transaxle. The frame was now in the center mount position. I put a floor jack under the rake which allowed me to raise and lower the rake.
I raised the rake to the raised position, connected the lift plate template and the lift link to the tractor and to the frame of the rake. By lowering and raising with the floor jack I was able to determine where the holes in the lift link needed to be. Once I got everything working I removed the templates and fabricated them out of steel.
The lift plate has two 3/8" holes (the two holes most forward when mounted on the tractor) the third hole which bolts to the lift link is 5/16". The lift plate attaches by sliding lower hole over the pin of the lift tool and the upper hole is bolted onto the lift tool in the rear hole. There are two holes in the upper portion of the lift tool where the lift cylinder clevis attaches. Use the rear hole and get a longer 3/8" bolt to accomodate the lift plate.
The lift link holes are 5/16" I used a 5/16" bolt on the rake frame with a nut as a spacer to get the lift link to align properly with the lift plate when viewed from the rear of the tractor. On the end of the lift link that connects to the lift plate I also used as 5/16" bolt with a nut as a spacer for alignment.
I've included pictures of all this so you can better see what I am describing. It seems that these two pieces are missing on many of the blades that you folks have posted. I ran this rake in my driveway and it worked great.
I also saved the actual cardboard templates. If you are fabricating the pieces I would be happy to pass the templates along to you. I just ask that you would pass them along to the next guy should anyone else want to make these pieces or have them fabricated by a shop.
As of now all the parts were painted with Rustoleum regal red using a brush. I wanted good heavy coverage for this project. I was lucky as mine was used very little, the rake, blade and scarifier are not worn even a tiny bit so it only needed paint and some welding of new attachment studs for the scarifier.
I took pictures in both lowered and raised position so that you can see the difference in the length of lift cylinder rod that is sticking out.
Finally, here are the pictures enjoy and thank again to Doug for getting this subject rolling along. I hope this helps someone with their project.
Edited by Husky, April 04, 2016 - 05:30 PM.