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HH120 Charging question


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#16 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:56 AM

Hi Brian, Yes it does have an ammeter. I'm just not sure that it is working properly. I have one on my 7 that I may swap out to see if it works.

#17 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:23 AM

Just wanted at add to what was already said. As a quick check on pretty much anything that charges , car , truck , GT, ect. I'll start by checking the voltage before starting , should be around 12.5 v , if the battery is good it shouldn't drop below 9.5 v when cranking , as soon as it starting the voltage should rise above 13.5v at high idle . If it's not then the battery really isn't going to charge . I'll turn on everything to load up the alt. , headlights, PTO , ( on vehicles 4 ways a/c ) and see if the alt will keep up the voltage . If the battery is old or bad you might not see 13.5 v at idle until a long time running. On one of my cars that I don't use often is going to need a new battery it cranks slow and when it starts you can hear the alt trying to charge the battery , like a winning noise .The dash gauge is on the low side until you run it for a while . The alt is full load which isn't good for it. Here's a cheap handy tool , it's an inductive amp meter you can lay it across the battery wire and check how many amps it charging and also checks how much draw when starting.
K D Hand Tools Danaher Group KDT 2423 - Current Indicator
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#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:37 AM

Neat little piece. The scale is a bit bigger than I need, if my battery is pulling 600amps, I'm running!

Would be handy just to have to verify current flow direction or even if your amp meter is working.

Edited by MH81, May 07, 2011 - 06:46 AM.


#19 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:46 AM

Neat little piece. The scale is a bit bigger than I need, if my battery is pulling 600amps, I'm running!

Me too !!! But you might see that if the starter is shorted or engine locked up . Then you would know it wasn't the battery !!

#20 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:19 AM

Engine starts, but starts kinda hard. Which is whyI have to give the battery a little boost. I'm wondering now if the drive belt isn't disengaging properly when depressing the clutch brake pedal causing unnecessary drag on the engine. It's sitting down in the pulley quite a ways. The belt looks pretty old so I'm going to replace it with new today and see if that makes a difference. (yes all pulleys are turning free and the idler is working correctly) I will also check all my grounds before re-connecting the battery.

#21 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 11:41 AM

Before you go changing belts, just take it off the engine & see if there's a major difference. You may just need a bigger battery.

#22 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 03:33 PM

The battery that I put in is a 625 CCA Interstate Battery. I don't know if a larger battery will fit in the battery case.

#23 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 04:56 PM

Okay! I spent most of the day working on the MF12h. Adjusted the cam for the hydro. Put on a new belt. Then proceeded to check and clean all the electrical connections one connection at a time. Got everythig back together, battery hooked up, turned the key. NOTHING!! Grrrrrr! I musta missed something. To frustrated and hungry right now to mess with it. I will start again in the morning. Such are the learning curves of a new hobby.
I guess it's like my wife says when anyone asks her if their is any money in breeding dogs. She replies "YAH MINE"

#24 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:00 PM

You need to get that new 625cca battery fully charged first, hook it up to an automatic charger over night on low amps.

A fully charged 12volt battery at rest for at least 1 hr will show 12.6 to 12.7 volts.
That 625cca battery is probably 2x the ratting of the one that came with the tractor.

The charging circuit in the Massey MF12 is only about 15 amps, it takes a long time, hrs, to charge up a battery of your size that is 1/2 or more discharged.

A load tester used would be the best at determining whether the battery is good, needs to be tested on a fully charged battery.

Voltage readings taken at the battery terminals is a reliable way to check if it is charging when running, you need to see a rise in voltage from idle to full speed.
The closer the battery is to full charge the higher the reading will be at full speed.
If reading is more than 14.7 regulator n/g
If there is no change in reading from idle to full speed drain down battery (turn on lights) and then test again.
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#25 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:28 PM

Trickle charged it for 2 days. Battery shows 12.7 across the terminals. Pretty sure I missed something. It's the way my last couple of day's have been going. Started out with the Red Sox getting creamed last night 9-2 then wake up this morning to the fridge on the fritz. Evaporator Fan motor gone. Nobody local has it in stock. Had to order it and pay for overnite shipping, still it will not be here until noon Tuesday. I will tackle it again in the morning.

#26 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:51 PM

Just wanted at add to what was already said. As a quick check on pretty much anything that charges , car , truck , GT, ect. I'll start by checking the voltage before starting , should be around 12.5 v , if the battery is good it shouldn't drop below 9.5 v when cranking , as soon as it starting the voltage should rise above 13.5v at high idle . If it's not then the battery really isn't going to charge . I'll turn on everything to load up the alt. , headlights, PTO , ( on vehicles 4 ways a/c ) and see if the alt will keep up the voltage . If the battery is old or bad you might not see 13.5 v at idle until a long time running. On one of my cars that I don't use often is going to need a new battery it cranks slow and when it starts you can hear the alt trying to charge the battery , like a winning noise .The dash gauge is on the low side until you run it for a while . The alt is full load which isn't good for it. Here's a cheap handy tool , it's an inductive amp meter you can lay it across the battery wire and check how many amps it charging and also checks how much draw when starting.
K D Hand Tools Danaher Group KDT 2423 - Current Indicator


That sure would be a handy little tool to have around when you need to do any DC troubleshooting. I wonder how it works.

#27 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:38 PM

Trickle charged it for 2 days. Battery shows 12.7 across the terminals. Pretty sure I missed something. It's the way my last couple of day's have been going. Started out with the Red Sox getting creamed last night 9-2 then wake up this morning to the fridge on the fritz. Evaporator Fan motor gone. Nobody local has it in stock. Had to order it and pay for overnite shipping, still it will not be here until noon Tuesday. I will tackle it again in the morning.


Maybe something draining it down when it sits??? Next time you go to it check battery volts again should be the same, 12.7

#28 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:57 PM

Will do Doug. That was part of the reason for my electrical exploration today. Tomorrow after chores I will sit down and go through it all again with the wiring diagram in front of me.
Also, even after making the hydro adjustment. brake adjustment and readjusting the transmission shift rod, when I depress the clutch brake wheels stop but the hydro lever doesn't return to the neutral position.. It returns to about 1/2 way into the forward position. Is there any way to adjust the cam for the clutch brake? (Not the Hydro Cam)

#29 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 08:09 PM

Will do Doug. That was part of the reason for my electrical exploration today. Tomorrow after chores I will sit down and go through it all again with the wiring diagram in front of me.
Also, even after making the hydro adjustment. brake adjustment and readjusting the transmission shift rod, when I depress the clutch brake wheels stop but the hydro lever doesn't return to the neutral position.. It returns to about 1/2 way into the forward position. Is there any way to adjust the cam for the clutch brake? (Not the Hydro Cam)


I've had 3 MF12h and never had to adjust the neutral return on them, I don't know if you can or not, maybe something bent or out of wack???
Let me know what you find on yours, be interesting to know.

#30 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 09:05 PM

Hmmm! Could be something is bent. I made some significant adjustment in all the linkage. Found alot of missing c-clips. Who ever owned the tractor last did some Rube Goldberg adjustments. Went right by the manual and now the brakes work and the hydro is properly adjusted.
Oh well, one thing at a time. Gotta make her run again. Will keep you posted. To all who have come to my aid, Thanks for all your assistance and your patience.




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