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HELP - cannot get enough spark !


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#16 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 07:39 PM

Stupid question,but is the spark plug gap to big.If gap is set wider it'll change timing and not fire,and not jump the gap properly.



#17 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 07:45 PM

Yep - .030  I even tried .025  Even if it was too big it shoulda jumped .

I just talked it over again with my uncle on the phone - he is baffled as well.

No good reason for this thing to not be working right now. But its not.


Edited by MGP59DB, March 30, 2016 - 07:48 PM.


#18 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 08:09 PM

You say I need the flywheel too?

your original coil has 3 legs the magnetron has two, so when going to the pointless iggy system, you have to change both the flywheel and the coil. easy as pie and you'll never have a spark trouble again,,,ever


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#19 HANKG ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 08:24 PM

I'm currently working on a 143302 I had some experienced help that suggested cleaning the magnet on the flywheel if it has rust, setting the air gap properly to the models spec . Also check for a bare wire spot I've seen spark jump at night that you might miss during the day.
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#20 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 09:11 PM

 

 

attachicon.gifpost-66960-0-63428800-14421509151.jpg

We did this one - same motor type - just replaced the condenser and rewired . works great !

 

 

Maybe you could try the flywheel from that engine and check it? I wonder if the magnetron flywheel will work with the 3 legged coil?Maybe somebody has changed the flywheel and got the wrong one.


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#21 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 09:17 PM

Maybe you could try the flywheel from that engine and check it? I wonder if the magnetron flywheel will work with the 3 legged coil?Maybe somebody has changed the flywheel and got the wrong one.

no the magnets are not in exactly the right place, as its a shorter magnet.


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#22 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 11:01 PM

Model 143402 - B&S 502727 - SN111659

attachicon.gif026.JPG

 

 

 

I put in the new coil pieces today . So good coil , ...?  Maybe yes, maybe no ! ....New does not always mean good.  .....Did you connect the small bare wire to a good, clean, ground?  .....Small black wire connected to the points terminal?  ....Any pic of the coil installed? 

 

Tried two new condensers .

Points are good . Are they as rusty as the points in your other pic?  ....Are the points coated with oil?  because there is some juice flowing thru the system , enough to bite you pretty good.

But there is not enough juice to jump the spark plug gap ? Is the plug new? ......Which plug are you using?  ....Is it a resistor plug?   ....Was the plug grounded to a shiny spot or a painted area when you tested the spark? 

I hooked this motor to an electric motor to spin it pretty fast and can see sparks from the wire to the head .

 

Does anyone have any idea's on what to do next?

Only thing left is the magnets on the flywheel ... the rest is new  , wires and all.

 

Are the magnets on the flywheel rusty? ....They need to be clean.  .....You can test the strength of the magnets with a screwdriver.  ...The magnets should pull the screwdriver in when the screwdriver is about 1/4" away from the magnet. 

 

Are the steel laminations of the coil armature shiny, both where they are exposed to the magnets, and where they contact the block?

 

Does the plug wire attached to the new coil have a wire core or a carbon core?


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#23 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 11:08 PM

I think I read back thru far enough, but did you try another plug?
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#24 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 03:34 PM

Are the magnets on the flywheel rusty? NO ....They need to be clean.  .....You can test the strength of the magnets with a screwdriver. Done ...The magnets should pull the screwdriver in when the screwdriver is about 1/4" away from the magnet. 

 

Are the steel laminations of the coil armature shiny, both where they are exposed to the magnets, and where they contact the block?Clean and shiney

 

Does the plug wire attached to the new coil have a wire core or a carbon core?Wire

This ignition compartment is very clean no excess oil , points are clean and shiny , The one in the picture #2 had all of the key surfaces cleaned and shiney .

You bring up good things to look for , but after going thru this entire thing 4-5 times and double checking these areas for issues , nothing seems out of sorts.

The magnets on the flywheel seem to be good based on the screwdriver test , but I have my suspicions that they are the problem .

 

 

your original coil has 3 legs the magnetron has two, so when going to the pointless iggy system, you have to change both the flywheel and the coil. easy as pie and you'll never have a spark trouble again,,,ever

 

I think I will go this route if I can't sort out the issue . Would you mind linking me to the right part to look for . I know you said any I/C 8HP B&S .

will have the right parts to swap .

 

Tried 3 different plugs - original - new replacement - and Uncles recommended.


Edited by MGP59DB, March 31, 2016 - 03:35 PM.


#25 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 04:46 PM

well I would give you part numbers but I never had them, I just took the flywheel and coil off the engines and exchanged them. A friend of mine put me on to this a few yrs back, maybe I can get the numbers from him. He also has one to convert the 1 1/2 hp engines, like an N, 6 and 8 briggs by doing the same thing with a different models flywheel. I know this works good because ive done several my self. Costs a lot to buy the parts new, that why I use the old ones.


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#26 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 06:18 PM

well I would give you part numbers but I never had them, I just took the flywheel and coil off the engines and exchanged them. A friend of mine put me on to this a few yrs back, maybe I can get the numbers from him. He also has one to convert the 1 1/2 hp engines, like an N, 6 and 8 briggs by doing the same thing with a different models flywheel. I know this works good because ive done several my self. Costs a lot to buy the parts new, that why I use the old ones.

What were these engines used on ? years maybe , what should I be looking for ? I have no idea what to look for.


Edited by MGP59DB, March 31, 2016 - 06:18 PM.

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#27 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 06:53 PM

What were these engines used on ? years maybe , what should I be looking for ? I have no idea what to look for.

well they used tons of them on pumps, troybuilt tillers, etc. they were built in the 1980's. Found some numbers, ,engine 195432, the coil might be 398811, couldn't find one for the flywheel. Take this engine number to a briggs dealer he should be able to get you the right numbers. Most any engine that say IC or Magntron on it will have the right parts.


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#28 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 07:10 PM

It seems that when the magnetron first came out, you could send your flywheel to Briggs and they would reverse polarize the magnets and it would work with the magnetron. Might be worth getting the coil first and try it. Maybe your flywheel has been switched. I'm not sure if that would work that direction with the 3 pole coil or not.

 

You can go here and see the coil we are talking about.  http://www.ebay.com/...9cAAOSwAKxWbhGe

 

Mouse over the pic and notice the little button by the right side leg. That is the electronic pick-up.


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#29 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2016 - 04:13 PM

Do you know anything about those conversion chips  Mega Fire II   -  Nova II ?



#30 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2016 - 07:37 PM

Do you know anything about those conversion chips  Mega Fire II   -  Nova II ?

I've used the Nova mainly because they are available locally. There used to be another that was called Atom but haven't seen it in a while. They worked good on Briggs but the coil has to be capable of creating the primary voltage and spark. If you tried it and it worked in your case, you'd know you have been fighting a point/cond issue. I like to use them on engines that don't get run often. Sure saves on having to clean corroded points.


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