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A few questions on a Massey 1655


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#31 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2016 - 09:45 PM

Well....got another couple steps done today.

Got my holes drilled and nuts welded on the back. Yes, there's 2 sets. First set was too close to the wall and I couldn't get the nuts on let alone weld them in place. So i flipped it around and the second set was perfect. Note for next time, install nuts before adding bottom piece. Luckily I left just enough room to reach in with a small rod to tack them in.

Then came fitting it onto the tractor. It fit great! It's always a good feeling knowing the measurements came out just right. The top bolt in the pic is coming out and will be 1 of the 4 used to attach this frame. The bottom 2 were originally used for the mower deck brackets I assume. When I removed all that, I drilled the holes to 1/2" and planned on running some larger bolts. The top 2 will stay the same as they also attach other panels.
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Tomorrow, I plan to bolt the loader on and see where the buckets falls. It should leave me roughly 3" from the front which will be enough clearance. If it needs to go back, I'll need to make a notch for the pivot on the pedal since I'm up against it now. Then marking and back off for more drilling. These projects are always more fun when they're coming together. For now, I'm wore out and have to be up early.

Eric

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#32 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2016 - 06:11 AM

It's takes a lot of 'thought process' when doing things like this. Coming along nicely!


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#33 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2016 - 06:55 PM

Mounted the loader with the center frame on the floor jack. That let's me line it all up and mark my bolt holes. Ended up notching one side so I could push everything back 1.5". Seemed like it was sitting too far forward. Looks better now.
uploadfromtaptalk1466466676167.jpg
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Anyone think this is close enough? Or should I try and move it in tighter? I'm open for opinions on this matter.
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Next pic shows the upper supports and a line I marked. My hood hits these resulting in a pretty good scratch while opening. I made these marks and am contemplating cutting here and reweld in the supports to continue parallel with the hood. Wouldn't affect how the front support attaches but would allow me full clearance for the hood to open. Is it sac-religious to cut on this loader to make it fit? Really looking for some thoughts on this. I've made it this far without majorly modifying either the loader or tractor.
uploadfromtaptalk1466466942674.jpg
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Any thoughts are welcome here.

Eric

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#34 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 02:17 PM

If it were mine, I'd do what it took so everything works well together. A little tweak here and there shouldn't hurt anything.


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#35 ENafziger OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 03:22 PM

It's not clear to me what those bars are for that are scratching the hood.  I presume they were used for stabilizing or triangulating the frame for support?  On the Johnson Workhorse loaders that are seen most often on these tractors, the support bars angle in and down...and attach to the frame of the tractor.  I'll try to find some pictures of mine...

 

Good job notching the bracket to get the loader in closer...it was well worth the time to do that!


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#36 ENafziger OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 03:55 PM

Frontend%20loader%202.jpg

 

Frontend%20loader%204.jpg

 

Frontend%20loader%205.jpg

 

Massey%20Ferguson%20FEL.jpg

 

 


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#37 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 03:56 PM

Yes...they are there to connect to the frontend. They spread the load across the front of the machine. I still have to build the rest of the brackets to complete. All I have to do is cut where I drew the like in the pic and change the angle to run parallel with the hood. I'm going to look at it a little closer when I get home. I think I can just notch a piece out, bend, and reweld. I don't think I'll have to cut it completely off. Wish me luck.

Eric

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#38 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 03:59 PM

Yes...they are there to connect to the frontend. They spread the load across the front of the machine. I still have to build the rest of the brackets to complete. All I have to do is cut where I drew the like in the pic and change the angle to run parallel with the hood. I'm going to look at it a little closer when I get home. I think I can just notch a piece out, bend, and reweld. I don't think I'll have to cut it completely off. Wish me luck.

Eric

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That's what I would do!


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#39 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 04:29 PM

It's not clear to me what those bars are for that are scratching the hood. I presume they were used for stabilizing or triangulating the frame for support? On the Johnson Workhorse loaders that are seen most often on these tractors, the support bars angle in and down...and attach to the frame of the tractor. I'll try to find some pictures of mine...

Good job notching the bracket to get the loader in closer...it was well worth the time to do that!

Seeing pictures if yours now has me thinking. I'm wondering if I should drop mine down a couple inches on the tractor. I have some flexibility there. Right now, my cylinders are all the way down when the bucket is flat on the ground. The only time I'd he able to lift is when I curl it downwards. Yours looks as if you can lift the front regardless of the bucket position. I'm assuming your loader was actually meant for the 1655.

Eric


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#40 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 04:31 PM

attachicon.gifFrontend%20loader%202.jpg

attachicon.gifFrontend%20loader%204.jpg

attachicon.gifFrontend%20loader%205.jpg

attachicon.gifMassey%20Ferguson%20FEL.jpg

Could you post a pic of where the subframe bolts in the rear? I wonder if it's the same spot I planned on hooking mine in.

Eric

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#41 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 09:17 PM

Look ma, no scratching!!!

uploadfromtaptalk1466561833091.jpg
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That's all I got done tonight. Mowed 3 yards including half of mine. Supposed to rain next couple days. I'll weld them up then if work cooperates.

Eric

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#42 limebuzz ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 09:31 PM

Looking good Eric. Nice work.
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#43 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 09:33 PM

And NO, I didn't weld that muffler. Was like that when I got it. As bad as it looks it doesn't leak a bit haha.

Eric

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#44 ENafziger OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2016 - 10:41 AM

Here's the best picture I have of the rear attachment.  It clamps around the rear axle tube with a very solid clamp, such that when you are pushing or digging with the front end loader, you are actually pushing the load directly from the rear axle.  Very little of the push force is being transmitted through the tractor frame directly.  Even though these frames are stout, they do flex...and I imagine repeated flexing under the strains that could be imposed with the FEL could cause cracking.  I do know that I have flexed mine under loads enough that things start to bind...like the hydraulic pedal linkage gets very tight, the rear pto will start to turn slowly, etc.  At any rate, it's probably a good thing to do to make the connection to the rear axle.

 

WP_20140412_011.jpg

 

Here's the front hydraulic pump mount...notice the locating tab is broken that should tie the pump to the frame to help prevent rotational twist.

 

WP_20140412_016.jpg

 

And here is the protective cover over the pump...and it shows the front brace connection point to the frame as well:

 

WP_20140609_20_44_38_Pro.jpg

 

My FEL was missing the mid section brace when I got it.  This is what I came up with (I think similar to what was originally intended)

 

WP_20140412_025.jpg

 

WP_20140421 35.jpg

 

WP_20140421 46.jpg

 

WP_20140421 48.jpg

 

WP_20140421 49.jpg

 

Hope this helps.  When you get this done, it will be one of the most useful tools you own...guaranteed!!


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#45 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2016 - 01:28 PM

I haven't forgotten about this thread. Just haven't had much time recently. Had a few repairs on some other things eating my time up. Will get another update hopefully tonight.

Eric

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