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Cub Cadet 782 hydro question


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#1 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2016 - 07:51 PM

Going to change the trans. fluid in my dad's 782, it has water in it and thankfully didn't break the rear last winter (did push about a quart of fluid out of the vent hole on the dipstick), we already have a part bucket of Hy-Tran from the farm tractors and will use that vs. other oils.  My question is, where are all the drain points on this tractor, and is there a filter or any special methods to drain or refill the transmission? 


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#2 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 07:15 AM

Generally I change fluid after it has warmed up but in your case with the contamination of water...hmmm. I'm wondering how so much water got in there to start with? Old school CC's like the Original, 70,71,72 & 73's we have seen issues of taking on water when left out in the elements but with a 82 series ? To drain there is a drain plug next to the hydro return line, front of the rear end IF it is a alumn rear...BUT I would pull the rear plate to clean and inspect and if it has a cat.0 rear lift you know it needs to be removed first. Bad enough to have water in a manual shift (see Jim's post on his model O rear end post) but a hydrostatic is a different animal. In hopes someone else will jump in with their input as well here is what I would do;

 

After draining/cleaning installing new filter(PN# 923-3014) fill with Hytran also add Seafoam, start and warm up tractor/drive it around some forward/reverse. Drain again remove contaminated filter an replace with another new one and fresh Hytran. You might want to wait an hour or so before the second draining in hopes most of the contamination will exit. A little costly but maybe a peace of mind?       



#3 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 10:20 AM

Generally I change fluid after it has warmed up but in your case with the contamination of water...hmmm. I'm wondering how so much water got in there to start with? Old school CC's like the Original, 70,71,72 & 73's we have seen issues of taking on water when left out in the elements but with a 82 series ? To drain there is a drain plug next to the hydro return line, front of the rear end IF it is a alumn rear...BUT I would pull the rear plate to clean and inspect and if it has a cat.0 rear lift you know it needs to be removed first. Bad enough to have water in a manual shift (see Jim's post on his model O rear end post) but a hydrostatic is a different animal. In hopes someone else will jump in with their input as well here is what I would do;

 

After draining/cleaning installing new filter(PN# 923-3014) fill with Hytran also add Seafoam, start and warm up tractor/drive it around some forward/reverse. Drain again remove contaminated filter an replace with another new one and fresh Hytran. You might want to wait an hour or so before the second draining in hopes most of the contamination will exit. A little costly but maybe a peace of mind?       

Sounds like a solid plan of action. I would be concerned that knowing you have water in there is it possible that it also has worked its way into the lift cylinder ? The valve would be higher up under the dash, but the cylinder is low along the inside right side frame rail. If it got in there would it eventually work back out safely? Maybe pulling loose the lines from each and blowing thru them as well as the draining and cleaning of the axle itself. ? Rust inside a hydro pump would make my "O" project look easy in comparison...



#4 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 11:03 AM

I'm thinking the amount of water was along the lines of condensation, as the case is sill sealed and what is still in there is mostly oil, I'm going out to make new battery cables for this tractor soon, I'll double check how the oil looks, I think with oil still in there it would be unlikely there would be rust in there.



#5 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 04:21 PM

After looking things over, the oil doesn't show any signs of water, the cap is slightly damaged, the fluid is a little low but not enough to account for the oil on the ground, I'm wondering if a little leaked (tractor has a lot of hours on it) and that was it, gonna  change the fluid and filter to be safe, but I'm not seeing the water problem he sees, all of the signs I se point away from water in the fluid.  where is the filter on these? Not sure if he has a manual or not. 



#6 olds45512 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 04:26 PM

The filter is on the front of the trans under the driveshaft, you can't miss it. I'd recommend pulling the rear cover off the rearend to inspect and clean if necessary, if it hasn't been serviced in a long time its possible it will have jelly on the bottom of the housing. Hytrans is made to capture water and when it does it leaves it on the bottom of the rearend in the form of a yellowish jelly.

Edited by olds45512, March 24, 2016 - 04:27 PM.


#7 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 04:57 PM

The filter is on the front of the trans under the driveshaft, you can't miss it. I'd recommend pulling the rear cover off the rearend to inspect and clean if necessary, if it hasn't been serviced in a long time its possible it will have jelly on the bottom of the housing. Hytrans is made to capture water and when it does it leaves it on the bottom of the rearend in the form of a yellowish jelly.

I failed to mention that this tractor does not have hy-tran in it currently, it was serviced at a local shop about 4 years ago(not my tractor so not much say), they told us that they put 15-40rottella in these cubs, probably would have been good to mention this at the start.  I'm switching it to hy-tran as that would be more correct and we already have it on hand because of the farm tractors.



#8 aagitch OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 07:56 PM

15w40????? Wow. I would put some off brand correct fluid like from tractor supply, run it with the old filter for a bit and then drain, install new filter and hytran. I would want to get all that 15w40 flushed out.
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#9 olds45512 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 08:03 PM

15w40????? Wow. I would put some off brand correct fluid like from tractor supply, run it with the old filter for a bit and then drain, install new filter and hytran. I would want to get all that 15w40 flushed out.

I agree but would probably use atf since it's cheap, actually atf is one of the fluids cub says can be used.

Edited by olds45512, March 24, 2016 - 08:03 PM.


#10 aagitch OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 08:11 PM

I assume you mean use atf to flush it. Good idea.

#11 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2016 - 09:36 PM

15w40????? Wow. I would put some off brand correct fluid like from tractor supply, run it with the old filter for a bit and then drain, install new filter and hytran. I would want to get all that 15w40 flushed out.

 

 

I agree but would probably use atf since it's cheap, actually atf is one of the fluids cub says can be used.

 

 

I assume you mean use atf to flush it. Good idea.

This has been in there without any issues for about 4years at this point, shop owner (very reputable shop I should mention) said tis is what they use in these hydros, the good part about this is that any water didn't stay suspended and went to the bottom where it shouldn't be a big issue, I've heard of 15-40 being used before, wouldn't be my first choice either but again, not my tractor.  Our plan for now is to drain and change the oil and filter, run it for a little while and then change it again this spring, while monitoring it for a while.    



#12 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2016 - 09:34 PM

Well, this project got pushed off some(ahh the joys of being on a farm and working away while things break), my dad got all the old oil and water drained out and let any remaining fluid drip out over night.  We changed the filter and refilled it with fresh hy-tran, started the tractor and everthing seems good, will keep an eye on it.  In the end it only ended up being a little more than a pint of water, all settled to the bottom that came out, I think the water being on the bottom is what saved it as it pushed the oil upward and out of the breather instead of cracking the housing.  Next is to service the engine and deck and get the old girl ready for another season of work.


Edited by adamjd200, May 02, 2016 - 09:35 PM.


#13 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2016 - 10:48 PM

After we have run this tractor more today, all seems good, oil changed with Rotella t1 30w, we're gonna get a new belt for the deck, grease it back up, and put it back to work.



#14 aagitch OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2016 - 04:18 PM

Good to hear everything is going well.  The 782 is one of the best cub cadets IMHO.






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