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Thoughts on Briggs and Stratton 6s rebuild.


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#1 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 10:05 PM

Since I don't seem to be having much luck finding a reasonably priced replacement 6s for my Planet Jr. Super Tuffy, I'm considering rebuilding my current one, I have basic tools needed to do so already, probably wouldn't get to it until late summer/early fall as I have other things to deal with at the moment.  Any thoughts, things to look for, ect.? 

The engine numbers are,

Model: 6s

Type:701084

Serial:695086

Believe this works out to be a 1952? BTW: The engine is currently stuck.


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#2 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 10:35 PM

If you have a dry place to store the engine, I would remove the cylinder head and add some penetrant to the bore. 

 

Most likely, the iron rings are rusted to the iron cylinder.  ....Removing the head may allow you to see the condition of the bore. 

 

If the piston is part-way down the cylinder, fill the cylinder with penetrant or oil, and let it sit for a week or two.  ....You can periodically add more penetrant as needed.  ......After a week or two, try turning the engine by hand.  ....Do not use tools to force rotation, since you will be doing this project at a later date.  ....Instead, add more penetrant and give it more time.

 

You can try motor oil, WD40, ATF (automatic trans fluid), rubbing alcohol, or a 50%-50% mix of ATF & acetone, or commercial penetrants.

 

The engine could also be seized at the crankshaft/rod journal, but more than likely the problem is in the cylinder.

 

Another place to check is the magneto armature to flywheel gap.  ....I have seen rust at this location prevent rotation.


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#3 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 10:43 PM

If you have a dry place to store the engine, I would remove the cylinder head and add some penetrant to the bore. 

 

Most likely, the iron rings are rusted to the iron cylinder.  ....Removing the head may allow you to see the condition of the bore. 

 

If the piston is part-way down the cylinder, fill the cylinder with penetrant or oil, and let it sit for a week or two.  ....You can periodically add more penetrant as needed.  ......After a week or two, try turning the engine by hand.  ....Do not use tools to force rotation, since you will be doing this project at a later date.  ....Instead, add more penetrant and give it more time.

 

You can try motor oil, WD40, ATF (automatic trans fluid), rubbing alcohol, or a 50%-50% mix of ATF & acetone, or commercial penetrants.

 

The engine could also be seized at the crankshaft/rod journal, but more than likely the problem is in the cylinder.

 

Another place to check is the magneto armature to flywheel gap.  ....I have seen rust at this location prevent rotation.

The crankcase is full of oil so I doubt it's the crank/rod journal, good point on the flywheel/mag gap, I am pretty good with Briggs but sometimes forget the obvious, lol.



#4 karl ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 01:36 AM

Check the exhaust valve seat first. Its condison will determin if its worth a rebuild.


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#5 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 11:11 AM

Check the exhaust valve seat first. Its condison will determin if its worth a rebuild.

What should I be looking for?



#6 karl ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 06:56 PM

What should I be looking for?

beond repair exhaust valve seat. I've been going through a few of thease little briggs lately and most of them are junk because the exhaust valve seats are gone. 



#7 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 07:28 PM

Karl:

 

Can't the valve seats be recut?


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#8 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 10:28 PM

I think one of the first things I am going to check is if it's rusted at the flywheel/mag. gap as if that's the case and after that it rolls over good and feels right, I wont even open it up at all as some times it's better not to mess with stuff (IF IT'S NOT BROKE, DON'T FIX IT). 






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