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B-110 coil replacement questions


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#16 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2011 - 03:09 PM

some good news and some bad news.

the good news is I got the nut off the flywheel and I can see the slot from the flywheel is lined up with the slot in the shaft and the key is intact.

the bad news is I still have a problem of no spark .

#17 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2011 - 06:15 PM

Next thing I'd do is remove the coil again, clean & scuff the mounting areas and the connector/wire that provides ground for the coil.

This thing keeps screaming bad ground or connection somewhere every time I think about it.
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#18 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2011 - 10:13 PM

well here's something, when I take the coil wire off the common post, on the backplate, I find there is continuity from the end of that wire to ground. How can that be ?

#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 06:01 AM

Guys, haven't noticed that before... :anyone:

#20 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 09:40 AM

Did you clean the points after you installed them? New points can have a flm on them that doesn't make good current flow. They are gapped at .020 at the most open point and close good? Coil gap is .010 to the flywheel. A thin business card over the magnets and let the coil draw down to the flywheel then tighten. Other than that, its time to get out the ohm meter and start testing.

#21 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 09:44 AM

well here's something, when I take the coil wire off the common post, on the backplate, I find there is continuity from the end of that wire to ground. How can that be ?


Didn't see this when I replied before. If you are checking the wire coming from the coil it should have continuity to ground. You are checking the resistence of the primary side of the coil. This will be 1 to 2 ohms. You should also have continuity from the secondary to ground but you will have to read it on the K-ohms scale.
....
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#22 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 01:11 PM

thanks DougT, that does help explain matters. I was getting very confused with the findings. All gaps are correct, I will double check the points regarding the film.

I get a similar continuity check on the end of the condenser wire. Is that also normal ?

What else can I check ? My knowledge is exhausted and I could sure use any help I can get.

#23 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 04:31 PM

A condenser is best checked with an analog (needle type) ohm meter. Most of the digitals won't send enough amperage to test it. Start by touching the condenser lead to the case to make sure it is discharged. Then touch one lead of the meter to the case and the other to the cond lead. One way should show continuity for a second or two as the condenser charges and then go open. Leave it set for awhile and retouch the leads it should still show open indicating that it didn't bleed off. The reverse hookup of the leads should just show open. If you charge the condenser on the first test you would need to touch its lead to the case to discharge it before the second test. If it shows continuity both directions or never shuts off, the condenser is bad. Testing with the digital can fool you on the shut off because of not producing enough amperage to reach the saturation point. When the condenser is charged touching the lead and the case can give you a good jolt. We used to charge condensers and toss them to some unsuspecting person and then watch them jump when they caught it. With all the leads removed from the points you can also ohm check them. One side will be insulated from ground with the points open and then show ground when they are shut. I've had points show continuity that still weren't clean enough to spark right. A new crisp bill usually works best.

#24 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:02 PM

Finally - success I got spark !

I tried using different old parts and new parts. I ended up using a combination of old points, new condenser and new coil. Not sure if that was the cure or just taking things apart and putting them back together. I'm glad either way.

Thanks to all for for your help and hanging with me .

#25 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2011 - 11:01 PM

Fantastic news!! :dancingbanana: Glad you stuck with it.

Now that you have spark, add fuel & air & post a video of it running!

#26 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2011 - 12:06 PM

Might be a while before I can get it back to running. I want to rebuild the carb, clean the valves and give it some fresh paint while I got the engine out of the tractor. I also want to paint the frame too since it's all stripped down ( a prerequisite for getting the engine out).

I'm going to have to find a source for the right yellow AC paint first.




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