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B-110 coil replacement questions


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#1 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 11:44 PM

I have no spark on the b-110 and have already replaced the points and condenser with no change.

I think I need to replace the coil after I figure out how to get the engine pulled.. But before I put the engine back in I want to test the spark by cranking the engine.

Is there a way to jump the starter from a battery to crank the engine while it is off the tractor ?

http://img13.imagesh...lectricalg.jpg/electrical.jpg
http://img13.imagesh...lectricalg.jpg/

Edited by Dee, May 02, 2011 - 11:59 PM.


#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 12:11 AM

Double check me here, but I believe you can go to the large terminal with the positive and ground to the block. If it were me, I would put it in so it's bolted down and you can use the wiring from the tractor. Safer for all that way & you don't have to worry about how to hold the engine down. Also, you can hook up the driveshaft after you get spark.
If you don't have spark, check your kill switch.

#3 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 12:27 AM

I have two terminals on the starter "A" and "F" can you tell me which of these is to be positive ?

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:11 AM

I will look to see how my 112 is, but the short answer is Where the big wire went.

It is nearby, should be able to look in a little bit and reply from work.

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:34 AM

My small wire is on the F terminal, can't read the other, but assumedly, it would be A. The big wire goes closest to the engine on mine.

#6 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 12:04 PM

positive to A throws a big spark with negative to block, but doesn't crank the starter.

#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2011 - 09:18 PM

Sorry I didn't get a chance last night, but tonight I took a good look at it, that's how mine is. Starter Cable to terminal "A". I think I'd take the belt off the starter and try it again without the load of the motor.

#8 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 02:17 PM

Well, some progress. Got the engine out, removed all the wires and I am able to spin the starter .

I replaced the coil, checked all the gaps and connections. I am testing with the engine out.

When I give it a test spin, I still get no spark at the plug the plug wire or the points.

what am I missing ?

#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 04:14 PM

OK, where the kill wire attaches, start following that wire and check for any bare spots that may be a short. If there is a short anywhere in that line, you won't have any spark. Also make sure the kill wire end isn't touching ground. Check to make sure the ground for the coil is connected to clean metal. If it doesn't have that, you'll get anywhere from weak to erratic to no spark.

Good luck.

#10 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 04:35 PM

The ground to the coils is sharing a post with two other wires, one is the kill wire coming from where the points are. The second goes to the condenser.

The engine is off the tractor, so one end of the kill wire (above the points) isn't attached to anything. Is that the problem ?

Edited by Dee, May 04, 2011 - 05:15 PM.
routing of second wire


#11 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 04:45 PM

Did you pull the flywheel and check the key? The kill wires have to ground to shut down the spark so if they aren't touching anything they will be alright.

#12 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 05:12 PM

I haven't pulled the flywheel . I will look to see if I can check the key without removing the flywheel - although I suspect the piston would not work without the key, correct ?

The piston is moving and compressing air .

#13 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 08:24 PM

The piston is connected to the crankshaft. The key times the flywheel to the crankshaft. The magneto creates voltage by passing the magnets in the flywheel across the primary side of the coil. The points have to open at the time of the highest voltage to create the secondary spark. If the flywheel isn't timed to the points then you don't get spark. The piston still moves. The flywheel key is made of aluminum and is made to shear. This is more common in engines that drive off the flywheel or push mowers that have hit something.

#14 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2011 - 08:32 PM

I'll have to find some instructions on how to remove the flywheel for this engine because I haven't done it before.

#15 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2011 - 07:19 AM

Take the flywheel nut loose, regular thread. Leave it on a few threads. Use a steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller with bolts in the holes in the flywheel to pull it off. It's on a taper so once it comes loose it will come right off. Sometimes when it pops it comes real quick. That's why you leave the nut on a few threads to catch it!




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