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ht20 for 400 bucks but no spark.


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#1 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 08:06 PM

so i bought a ht20 for 400 bucks. it has the hydro angle plow and a 60 inch deck, which is tons of fun for the whole family to move lol. and i went to start the beat, i have compression and its getting gas, but no spark. points are fine, condesser is fine. only thing left is the coil. correct? also my engine uses 2 different spark plugs. any ideas on the 2 different plugs?

#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 08:11 PM

I can't help you with the plugs. Make sure you have current going to the positive side of the coil. Do you have a spare coil you can use or borrow to check that out?

$400 is a great deal on an HT20 I think. The big ones definitely are not fun pushing are they? LOL

#3 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 08:13 PM

:wave: jdecker94 Welcome to GTTalk! It's great to have you with us! We have a manual for the HT20 in the manuals section. Click Here Have you tried downloading that yet? There are several knowledgeable Bolens guys on here if that doesn't answer your questions. Sounds like you got one heck of a deal on the HT20! Did it come with any attachments? We also love pics!

#4 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 08:14 PM

Welcome to the Forum. I'm mostly a Bolens tubeframe guy so I'm not much help on the Largeframe series.
If everything else is fine like you said then It points to coil I would think.
Hopefully one of the largeframe guys will have some more insight on this.


We would love to see pictures of your Bolens!!!

#5 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 08:32 PM

I would check the coil for a crack there know to do that.
Should only need one kind of spark plug I dont have the numbers handy right now of the plugs I use, I'll get the numbers to you as soon as I can.
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#6 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2011 - 09:28 PM

Like Jerome said, look for a cracked coil. Those big Kohler twins are notorious for that, and the coils ain't cheap. Any time one of my Large Frames starts acting up, I check the coil first, and it is usually the culprit. You can use a coil for the older Harley Davidsons to replace the Kohler coil, for less money than a Kohler coil.

As for the plugs, unless someone was trying to run a hotter plug on one side to reduce oil fouling, both plugs should be the same. I use Champion H10 plugs, which is what is listed in the Kohler manuals.
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#7 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:07 AM

the coil isnt cracked but my brain might soon. i found one for about 90 bucks shipped and i kinda knew it needed a coil. also i didnt have to push it into the trailer, a quad with a plow pushed me =D i think the one engine head was replaced way back. the spark plugs are completely different in diameter, length ect. id like top put new heads on it so it doesnt drive in insane, but that will come in time.

#8 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 09:02 AM

Whenever you need to move an HT20 when the engine is not working, remember that the HT20's have the Sundstrand 15 hydro. It has a relief valve on the left side that you unscrew at least 1/2 turn to allow you to roll the tractor without damaging the hydro.

#9 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:47 PM

only a half turn? i guess i went overkill by pulling it all the way out when i bought it. the coil isnt coming for a while, its on backorder. so im going to salvage the rims, fenderpan, then bring the hood to a pro to take care of it. the bottom of the hood where it bolts on is so rusty i dont have a clue what to even do to it. other then strip what rust off i can, and get a 1/8 inch piece of steel welded to the inside where nobody would see it. if anything thought, the rims are extra high priority, since they dont make 6 lug on 12 inch rims no more.

#10 dadork OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 10:25 PM

If you have a multi-meter you should be able to check for continuity on the coil on the ohms setting, put black lead to stud on coil and red lead to the different leads on the coil, if it shows OL it's no good, if it shows some resistance it should be fine. Try looking at your magnets on the flywheel and make sure they aren't all rusted over, a little steel wool will clean them well, same with the magnets on the coil. Your gap setting between coil and flywheel is made nicely with a business card.

#11 mjodrey ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2011 - 04:24 AM

Welcome to the site jdecker94,glad to have you with us.

As said above,they only use one plug number,but I don't have that number off the top of my head.

#12 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted May 03, 2011 - 07:34 AM

gap the coil? i dont see how i could gap the coil, its just bolts on to a metal mounting plate. also would i have to tear into my engine to clean my flywheel magnet?

#13 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2011 - 10:10 AM

Your Kohler is set up like an older car would be. It uses breaker points and a coil. The coil is not mounted by the flywheel. You do not need to pull the flywheel off your engine. You should check the points gap and make sure that it is close to 0.020".

#14 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted May 03, 2011 - 03:12 PM

ok i read more on points and i think i goofed up on adjusting the gap. i noticed the points move as i crank the engine. at the furthest point gap them to that size correct? and if you know me im gonna go out and regap then read your reply lol. thanks for all the help and advice so far everyone.

Edited by NUTNDUN, May 03, 2011 - 04:04 PM.
language


#15 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2011 - 04:37 PM

When you set the points gap, the points should be at their widest opening as you move the engine through its rotation. They should also close fully during the engine rotation. If they do not close fully, the ignition system will not work.




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