Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo

How far is too far on a restoration


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1 Kmac1 OFFLINE  

Kmac1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62275
  • 521 Thanks
  • 221 posts
  • Location: Central ok

Posted March 10, 2016 - 12:48 PM

I have two Snapper 1855A's that I am restoring as time allows, (2 years so far). I plan on using one to mow with and the other one to show with. I have some dents on both fender pans, hoods and grills. How far is to far on a garden tractor restoration. I am not a body man (I tried on some of the smaller dings, not pretty) so I took them to a body an I used to work with and he quoted me $200 per panel. I declined his offer to steal my hard earned $$$$$$. I only have $100 in both tractors. So I called my painter and he said he would do it and paint them for paint price only which is $500 for the entire time reactor, all panels, frame and wheels. It sounds a little high to me but he is the number one painter in Oklahoma City metro and when he is done it will be flawless. Should I spend the $500 or try to do it myself.
  • larrybl, MH81, JD DANNELS and 4 others have said thanks

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,292 Thanks
  • 28,625 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted March 10, 2016 - 12:56 PM

I have a hard time doing either, but for what you will have in them (assuming you refreshed them mechanically), you will be a lot cheaper than buying a box store throw away.

If the mechanicals aren't top notch, I would probably have a go myself because the eventual tear down will mess up your paint.
  • JD DANNELS, WrenchinOnIt, holdenboy1960 and 2 others have said thanks

#3 LilysDad ONLINE  

LilysDad

    Cat Lover

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10443
  • 9,646 Thanks
  • 7,675 posts
  • Location: N. Illinois, DeKalb County

Posted March 10, 2016 - 12:58 PM

It's your mower and your money. You can go as far as makes you feel good. There is just one thing to write down and commit to memory. You will never get your investment back out of the machine. Every once in awhile, you will see a fairly nice looking tractor for sale on eBay or CL for really high price, and you must know the man is going to be disappointed. So, if your just going into this with money to burn, have at it. It will be better if you try to do as much of the work as possible. The more you do, the better you will get at it.


  • limebuzz, MH81, JD DANNELS and 8 others have said thanks

#4 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

WrenchinOnIt
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8592
  • 2,515 Thanks
  • 732 posts

Posted March 10, 2016 - 01:40 PM

I have two Snapper 1855A's that I am restoring as time allows, (2 years so far). I plan on using one to mow with and the other one to show with. I have some dents on both fender pans, hoods and grills. How far is to far on a garden tractor restoration. I am not a body man (I tried on some of the smaller dings, not pretty) so I took them to a body an I used to work with and he quoted me $200 per panel. I declined his offer to steal my hard earned $$$$$$. I only have $100 in both tractors. So I called my painter and he said he would do it and paint them for paint price only which is $500 for the entire time reactor, all panels, frame and wheels. It sounds a little high to me but he is the number one painter in Oklahoma City metro and when he is done it will be flawless. Should I spend the $500 or try to do it myself.

You may be asking the wrong people... Just saying... You may want to ask your wife... of course you can offer the the somewhat weak , but still an explanation, that the Forum guys said to go for it...

Seriously what do YOU want, what are your use for them and what are you comfortable with? There are a lot of pretty nice looking tractors their owners took a rattle can to , yes there are drawbacks to painting with aerosol, but it is the easiest DYI.
  • MH81, JD DANNELS, TomLGT195 and 3 others have said thanks

#5 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,151 Thanks
  • 4,498 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted March 10, 2016 - 01:48 PM

Nothing wrong with a rattle can paint job if it is done right.   Use a quality brand of primer and paint.  I like to use the same brand for each.  Have had real good luck with X-o-Rust.  Take your time, several thin coats and follow directions. 

 

Rattle can paint is not as durable as automotive paint so don't expect it to stay bright and shiny if it sits out in the weather all the time.  You can always do a first class paint job later on if your not happy with the rattle can job.


  • MH81, JD DANNELS, WrenchinOnIt and 4 others have said thanks

#6 EricFromPa ONLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 2,300 Thanks
  • 2,334 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted March 10, 2016 - 02:39 PM

I do what I can myself.But I'm slow at it.I make them 100% mechanically sound 1st then use them for a bit and work the kinks out before tearing them apart for paint and body work.

 

 

If you really plan on keeping it then look into Powder coating.It will outlast any grade of car paint.Betting it will be cheaper than $500 to but there is a alot more Prep work that you will have to do.You can't just tape off stuff that you don't want painted.You have to completely disassemble it down to the bare frame.Rubber and plastic parts can't be powder coated.

 

If you decide to paint it yourself make sure you have a Huge well ventilated indoor space you can lay the all of the parts out on for atleast a couple weeks.

 

Wonder if that $500 includes taking it completely apart,painting and reassembling it?Or will he just tape it up and shoot it?Price Seems a really high for a quart of paint,thinner,primer and clear coat if he's not going to take it apart and paint.


  • MH81, JD DANNELS, holdenboy1960 and 1 other said thanks

#7 HANKG ONLINE  

HANKG
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 29484
  • 4,889 Thanks
  • 2,794 posts
  • Location: Pt.Pleasant N.J.

Posted March 10, 2016 - 02:50 PM

Automotive paint is expensive, but looks great and lasts a lot longer than a spray bomb. Its a lot of work to paint a tractor there are a lot of parts to paint. So if you want a show machine I don't find 500 unreasonable at all. And when done by a pro you get pro results. Its been my experience that it takes a 1/2 gallon of paint to properly paint a GT you will have some leftover but that's not a bad thing. If anyone would take apart a GT sand blast, prime and paint for 500 give me his number and I can stop doing it myself.

Edited by HANKG, March 10, 2016 - 03:16 PM.

  • Bolens 1000, MH81, JD DANNELS and 3 others have said thanks

#8 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

JD DANNELS

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2011
  • 3,786 Thanks
  • 3,907 posts
  • Location: Newton.Ia

Posted March 10, 2016 - 02:54 PM

I am not the one to ask, while I really enjoy seeing someone elses perfect trailer queen.

But I cannot justify my owning a machine that I cannot work. They to me are a tool and useless if not working.  No matter how carefull you are things happen, and I have enough regrets without adding scratching a $500-!000 paint job. I like my tractors to look good, but how good is a personal thing.

I can only say that you are the one who can say how far you want to go.


Edited by JD DANNELS, March 10, 2016 - 02:59 PM.

  • MH81, Chris11, KC9KAS and 3 others have said thanks

#9 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,953 Thanks
  • 3,326 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted March 10, 2016 - 03:43 PM

Speaking from experience, On the Craftaman's I spend 7-9 months and around $1,800.00 to $2.200.00 each. Both are working (mowing) machines for 3 acres. 

The 78 Roper was more special, and I spent 9+ months and around $2,400.00 and She is for show, but can be put to work.

Currently working on another Craftsman II (BOH) and so far at a minimual cost, mainly rattle can paint and sand paper, oh and a $100.00 engine gasket set. I expect more expence as I get to the tires and other things. 


  • MH81, JD DANNELS, TomLGT195 and 2 others have said thanks

#10 toppop52 ONLINE  

toppop52
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54420
  • 3,497 Thanks
  • 3,386 posts
  • Location: Lower Eastern Shore of Maryland

Posted March 10, 2016 - 04:03 PM

I've only been into tractors seriously for 7-8 years, but have owned them for 35+, and I've always dabbled in classic cars. I've never coveted, nor owned a trailer queen. Some very, very nice cars, worth a good bit of $$$, but never one I didn't drive like I stole it. Same with tractors, it's a tool, I'm going to work it.
  • MH81, JD DANNELS, jpackard56 and 3 others have said thanks

#11 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

Talntedmrgreen

    Simplicity Enthusiast

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8186
  • 3,059 Thanks
  • 2,174 posts
  • Location: Dorr, MI

Posted March 10, 2016 - 04:17 PM

I do all my own work and paint also, and have to watch the funds when it comes to restores.  I have never been completely happy with my work, but what I did, I did as well as I could.  Each one is a bit better than the one before it as I learn...if a machine is to be a worker, I don't even attempt to 'restore' them.  I get them mechanically excellent, then put some elbow grease into the cosmetics (repair damage, thorough cleaning, etc).  I don't bother with paint, because I like them in their original skin, or a 110% effort to restore them, nothing in between.


  • MH81, JD DANNELS, KC9KAS and 4 others have said thanks

#12 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,686 Thanks
  • 17,204 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted March 10, 2016 - 04:22 PM

Lots of different opinions on here so here is mine, A full blown restorations is a complete tear down to the nuts and bolts and replacing any worn bearings and parts while rebuilding the motor. I see alot of "Restorations" on craigslist that are nothing more than a quick paint job and personally I call those a "Refresh" as theres no way they "Restored" it asking only $800 when they sell them.

 

Like others mentioned a restoration can be rewarding if you plan on keeping it, if you do it to sell later you'll lose money big time. A restoration on my tractors can be anywhere from $1,000 to $2000+ but I dont care as I do it to preserve history and never have intentions of selling them, plus you have a new tractor in the end and likely thats what a new one would cost if available today.

 

A "refresh" can cost a couple hundred if you do a quick paint job and partial teardown/ minor repairs

 

Anyway its yours to do as you wish and what are comfortable with :thumbs:


  • MH81, JD DANNELS, johndeereelfman and 5 others have said thanks

#13 Jazz OFFLINE  

Jazz
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62028
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 950 posts
  • Location: Thunder Bay Ontario

Posted March 10, 2016 - 04:30 PM

 Body/paint is very time consuming work and that is reflected in the prices.  I do all my own paint and body work and I'm satisfied with my results but I also know where every flaw is in my work!

 

 


  • limebuzz, MH81, Chris11 and 6 others have said thanks

#14 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,461 Thanks
  • 1,607 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted March 10, 2016 - 05:36 PM

I have tractors that I use regularly, and some harder to find tractors that I'm doing nut and bolt restorations on. I will use the restored tractors when finished for light use and I will have much more $ into them than someone would be willing to pay for them. I don't even keep track of the $ spent,since I'm not in it for profit. I like the sense of accomplishment as I locate the needed parts and restore whatever part of the tractor that I'm working on. Some of these older machines, 40's and 50's built with some automotive parts are way over built. These were expensive tractors back in the day if you look at the original cost. When tearing into one, you can see why they were expensive. For example, the older Economy tractors seem fairly generic and can be had for very reasonable prices. I bought one for 400, and I will have close to another 2000 into it when finished. It's a nut and bolt restoration on a tractor that I will use for heavy work. I like the fact that I'll know that everything will be new or like new when I start using it. Basically, it will be like buying a new tractor that's simple to work on. These tractors were over 3000.00 in the eightys, so to have 2400.00 in a completely rebuilt tractor is reasonable. To find one of these tractors for 1000.00 that was lightly used, saves a whole lot of time and money.
There are a bunch of different answers to your original question. The main thing is to enjoy what you are doing with your tractors to satisfy yourself, and help others as you see them running into problems if you have the answers. This sight is a great place to come when you need help with your projects.

Edited by classic, March 10, 2016 - 05:37 PM.

  • Bolens 1000, MH81, Chris11 and 5 others have said thanks

#15 Chris11 ONLINE  

Chris11

    old Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1601
  • 1,626 Thanks
  • 943 posts
  • Location: Hudson Mass

Posted March 10, 2016 - 05:42 PM

It depends on how much you like the tractor. Or the job you want to do. My Panzer t70 the frame tubes had pin holes in them from filling up with water. I found that panzer built them from gas pipe, So I made new ones . I enjoy building things so I try to go all out. Don't care what the dollar amount is. Its new to me.


  • MH81, TomLGT195, HANKG and 3 others have said thanks




Top