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Latest Project, A 960


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#31 HALFSCALE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2016 - 02:50 AM

Thanks, it has been a real learning experience so far!

According to the engine S/N it's a 1974 and it does have the separate clutch and brake pedals. The brakes are another item that need to be repaired, the caliper is missing the pucks and nothing I've found looks like it will interchange. Might get a complete assembly like this one and try to modify it to fit http://www.ebay.com/...STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Started work on the dash today, put fiberglass cloth/resin behind all the cracks and built up the area where the throttle mounts with multiple layers. Still debating on what to do with the steel dash insert, may just paint it black and call it good :D

Some where around 72-73 they went to the two pedals, MolonLabe, yours is an early 74, you can tell by the brake pedal, uses the decal in the center , half way thru the year they went to a molded rubber pedal that has the word brake molded right into it.


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#32 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2016 - 09:29 AM

Just in case you want the factory look here is what I got from these folks & used on mine. I thought it was a bit pricey at first but once I applied it on the finished dash I was glad I made the decision. I have seen them painted to match the sheet metal & they look good. My first thought on mine was to go with a piece of brushed aluminum. You could use your old plate as a template. Your project is looking good...I like the red.  :thumbs:

http://www.clickitan...990-dash-decal/

 

My before & after pics

attachicon.gifref26.jpgattachicon.gifdash repair38.jpg

Nice job on the dash and thanks for the link! Just ordered one.

 

Or for less than $10.00 you can order gocart disc pads, Vintage Mini Bike & Go-Kart Round Disc Brake Pads - 1-1/8" OD - 1/2" Height, they fit the original calipers perfectly.

Wow, at that price might as well order a set. Thanks!


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#33 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2016 - 09:07 AM

A progress update on the 960.

 

The dash is almost ready for paint, used fiberglass cloth and plexiglass to repair the damaged areas. Cut a single piece of plexiglass in a "U" shape and JB welded it to the inside of the hood lip then backed it with fiberglass cloth. Also reinforced the throttle mount with another 6 layers of glass cloth. Used Bondo for the low spots and to smooth the fiberglass. Treated the rust on the dash plate and primed it with self etching primer, a coat of black paint and it will be ready for the new decal. 

SAM_1618.JPG

 

Fixed the first gear lockout by adding an adjustable bolt for a stop, it originally allowed second gear to over travel past the detent.

SAM_1628.JPG

 

A long way to go but it's getting there.

 


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#34 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2016 - 09:40 PM

Looking real nice & a lot of progress. Just a little warning...after you mount your decal actually vinyl put small washers I prefer stainless under the screws. When you tighten up the screws without washers the screw heads want to twist the vinyl.


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#35 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2016 - 10:17 PM

Looking real nice & a lot of progress. Just a little warning...after you mount your decal actually vinyl put small washers I prefer stainless under the screws. When you tighten up the screws without washers the screw heads want to twist the vinyl.

That is a good idea, I'll have to make a trip to Lowe's and pick up some washers. It'll give me a chance to check out their garden section they just opened up for the season too. Win win.


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#36 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2016 - 06:38 AM

Dash is looking good!


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#37 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2016 - 07:26 PM

Thanks Kenny! A little more done the last couple of days. Put a kit in the flojet carburetor, reassembled the dash and installed the dash plate and decal. Ended up drilling out the holes for the sheet metal screws that attached the dash plate originally and substituted #10 stainless button head screws with nuts and washers on the back side to retain it. Still need to pick up a plug for the cigarette lighter hole.

SAM_1655.JPG

 

Chased electrical gremlins for a couple of hours and finally got that squared away, bad ammeter connection and no ground to the ignition switch (tractor won't shut off without a grounded switch). Tried and failed to remove the left rear wheel for access to the brake. That hub just won't let go so the plan for tomorrow is to leave the lug bolts loose and ride it around till the wheel breaks loose, that's the plan anyway. All seat time is good time.

 

Next item is paint and I think I'll stick with the red and leave the black as it is. Curious to see what the decals say that were painted over, especially the big square one on top of the hood.

SAM_1656.JPG

 

 


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#38 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2016 - 07:44 PM

Looking good!


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#39 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2016 - 08:24 PM

Doing a great job...I got to get me a red one now.  :thumbs:


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#40 VTXrider ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 02:10 PM

Very nice work on the dash. Thanks for the update.


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#41 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 04:12 PM

Started to work on the brake today but the left rear wheel refused to separate from the hub. Pry bar and hand sledge had no effect, that booger was stuck fast. Loosened the lug bolts and took her for a ride. After half an hour the only thing accomplished was one lost lug bolt. Rats. Okay, decided to spray it down with Kroil and repeat. No luck. Really starting to get on my nerves now, time to bring out the big guns. Aired the tire up to 40psi and started driving over landscape timbers along the driveway in an "S" pattern. Finally the wheel came loose and now on to the brake! Once that's lined out I can start prepping the old girl for a paint job. As a side note, the right angle gear box is a noisy critter, checked the lash when I put everything back together and figure that it's just the nature of the beast. Gotta say that that old Briggs really impresses me, it's a real stump puller and doesn't miss a beat. Update to follow and thanks for reading along, hopefully this will help someone else trying to get one of these dinosaurs back in shape!


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#42 VTXrider ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 06:12 PM

The rear hubs can be harder to remove than the wheel. Used Kroil and heated with a torch several times before it finally loosened up.


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#43 HALFSCALE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 03:07 AM

Those old big block Briggs have a very long stroke, longer than Kohler, Wisconsin and Tecumseh , lots of ft/lbs torque. I wish more aftermarket performance parts were made , like for the Kohler


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#44 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2016 - 07:18 AM

My BIL came over the other day & he has a newer GT with a 1000hp with a tin can stamped frame. I raised the hood on my MTD 990 with a 16hp briggs. He says wow that's just a 16, then when I started it up he says that's a ground pounder for sure. I wanted to say yeah it would take almost two of yours to give you the torque this one has...but I was nice.
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#45 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2016 - 10:39 AM

Stripped the paint off the decal on top of the hood, hard to believe that no one ever took the time to remove it, especially before painting.

SAM_1668.JPG

 

Put a new set of pads in the brake caliper and noticed the slop in the brake pedal. The rod that attaches to the pedal simply runs through the frame and is secured with a locking collar leaving the length of the rod unsupported which is where all of the slop comes from. The only cure I see is to install a pillow block bearing on the shaft adjacent to the brake operating rod.

SAM_1674.JPG

 

The clutch pedal suffers from the same slop, it is secured by 2 locking collars, one on either side of the frame and no bushing through the frame. Gonna have to ponder a fix for this one due to the close proximity of the lift arm.

SAM_1671.JPG

 

 






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