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No luck getting the 1250 running


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#61 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2016 - 08:12 PM

the blue wire is attached to the stud on the breaker box the second red wire goes to the fuel pump.

 

Assuming you have a 12v fuel pump, power for the pump should come from the switch side of the ballast resistor, not the coil side of the resistor.

 

The resistor is actually dropping the voltage going to the pump the way it is wired now.


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#62 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2016 - 08:15 PM

the blue wire is attached to the stud on the breaker box the second red wire goes to the fuel pump.

 

Edit:   Removed double post


Edited by Bruce Dorsi, March 05, 2016 - 08:18 PM.

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#63 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2016 - 08:23 PM

Assuming you have a 12v fuel pump, the wire going to the pump should be installed on the switch side of the ballast resistor,  not the coil side of the resistor, as it is now.

great thank you for taking the time to help me with this project. i will move that over. I downloaded the wiring diagram and as far as I can tell the wires are going to the correct places. I am not getting 12 volts to the starter/generator when I test the solenoid, it's dropping to like 9-10 volts. The battery itself is 12.5v.

#64 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2016 - 08:37 PM

great thank you for taking the time to help me with this project. i will move that over. I downloaded the wiring diagram and as far as I can tell the wires are going to the correct places. I am not getting 12 volts to the starter/generator when I test the solenoid, it's dropping to like 9-10 volts. The battery itself is 12.5v.

 

 

 

Is the starter connected to the solenoid for the test you described?  ....If it isn't, there is a lot of resistance in the solenoid or the connections.  .....The negative (ground) cable from the battery needs to have a good, clean connection where it attaches to the tractor or engine.  ...Paint will cause a poor connection. 

 

If the starter was connected for your test, slip the belt off the starter, and re-check the voltage when the starter is spinning.  ....Again, the ground side of the circuit is important, so if the starter mounting is not grounded well, the starter can be sluggish.


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#65 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:01 PM

This is the very first time I have worked on a tractor in the garage.

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#66 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:20 PM

When I turn the engine over by hand by grabbing the pulley and turning it I can feel the pressure in the engine increasing until it gets hard to move and then after the pressure is built up I hear the air hissing out of the leak around the spark plug.

In the second picture it looks like the end of your spark checker is laying on the heat shield.  If so, you will not get a spark because the coil is grounded out at the end of the spark checker ?


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#67 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:25 PM

In the second picture it looks like the end of your spark checker is laying on the heat shield.  If so, you will not get a spark because the coil is grounded out at the end of the spark checker ?

ok thanks I tried my other new spark tester and the only time the bulb lights up is when I cycle the key from off to run but it does not light up when I am cranking it over.

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#68 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:41 PM

Never have messed with points but here they are. Gonna replace the wire from here to the coil.

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#69 AA Hayes ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:54 PM

Clean points and adjust gap. Sounds like that could be your issue.
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#70 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:56 PM

Clean points and adjust gap. Sounds like that could be your issue.

I replaced the wire from the points and now I am getting spark when I start turning it over.
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#71 AA Hayes ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 10:03 PM

If you have a good consistent spark it sounds like your ready to clean a carb and put fuel to it.

Edited by AA Hayes, March 07, 2016 - 10:04 PM.

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#72 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 10:22 PM

Ok it looks like I have gas coming out of the carb and the head?

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#73 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 10:26 PM

If you have a good consistent spark it sounds like your ready to clean a carb and put fuel to it.

did that last fall but looks like I need to do it again, maybe a carb kit. I am a little concerned about this motor and what shape it may be in when I get it running. I did have some smoke come out of the head when I was cranking it.

#74 AA Hayes ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 10:45 PM

Might be worth checking out piston, ring and cylinder specs. At least get gasket kit if possible and try to track down a head that doesn't have a tampered with spark plug hole? I would take the opportunity to do top end over hall if parts are available. It looks like the tractor is in decent condition and worthy of a good running motor.
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#75 accidentalchild OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2016 - 10:49 PM

Is this the wrong carb for this motor? Really hokey and painful carb removal.

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