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Ford 195 worn rear axle


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#1 Dugmf12 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 07:20 PM

Well I brought Jake/Ford in the garage again to check a couple things and found that both my rear rims had considerable hub wobble.  Both had worn woodroof keys but the right axle has a very mangled keyslot on the axle.  The same axle has a moon shaped crack from the back side of the expanded keyslot down about 1/2 inch from the keyslot.  There are some 165 axles on eBay but they look considerably shorter.  So  my question is, if I remove the axle can the damaged/cracked area be remove and built/milled back up?  I know nothing about metallurgy, what can be done or not done or not recommended.  I will try some pictures here.

 

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Any thoughts or questions would be appreciated.  Thanks

Doug


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#2 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 07:53 PM

That doesn't look real good! From the parts manual, it looks like the 195 had different axles. Wonder if a Sears FF had the same ones?


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#3 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 08:30 PM

Weld up the keys slot, v out the crack and weld it. Only a little bit at a time, so the axle doesn't get to hot, grind off your welds, test fit your wheel, then turn the axle 1/4 turn and make a new key slot with a dremial tool with the cut of disks in it. Worked for me on a impeller shaft with the same type of key in it. Only a suggestion,

Noel
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#4 rustyoldjunk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 10:25 PM

They same issue is fairly common Wheel Horse axles and they use woodruff keys too. I have one in the garage now that looks like your baddest axle,it also has a big chunk missing. I agree with Noels fix idea above with the only difference being,I would make my new keys and slots regular square stock.


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#5 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2016 - 10:34 PM

I would weld them up slowly and machine a new keyway in them. If you don't have the ability to do this yourself, take them to a machine shop to cut the proper key slots into them for a new woodriff key.. If you get the axles too hot, you can weaken them and they could break.


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#6 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 04:22 AM

Boy Doug, you have a mess there!! One axle looks to have been welded on already? That in it self could pose a serious problem ! I have a few different axles, but they look to have a different end on them. And the flanges are 5 bolt not 6?
To disable assemble the transaxle you have to remove the axle tubes. With that blob of weld lunking up one axle, you have a real mess on your hands!
The axles are usually hardened from the bearing area to the splines, but not tool steel hard. It can be fixed really nicely but not on the tractor. The axle would need to be heated, then welded up over sized , cooled slowly and re-machined then you would be good to go as long as the flanges are not destroyed....
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#7 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 09:21 AM

I agree that it's been welded on before


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#8 Dugmf12 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 09:36 AM

Thanks guys for the input.  It sounds like this mess can be filled in by welding, if done properly.  So that is a good thing as 195 axles are very difficult to find.  I did talk to a former co-worker of mine who does machining/milling and he said that he could cut a new key slot in the axle but that was when I was dealing with the left one which is not at all like the right one that I have pictured.  He is not aware of this one. 

Yes, there has been some welding done on this before.  I appears to me that they welded 2 "tabs" on the axle to tighten the hub against with the axle nut, I suppose to stabilize it somewhat.

So, after reading the posts, my plan is to remove the axle, probably both, to get accomplished what needs to be done.  I have never dealt with a transaxle before so would be a new experience.  I quickly looked at the service manual on disassembly, seemed a little vague, I think it was written for the experienced mechanic but I am going to print out the disassembly part and read it completely.  I assume there is a clip ring of some sort to hold the axle in and was trying find in the manual how that gets released to remove the axle.  I suppose it is easier to remove the whole transaxle/hydro unit from the tractor in the long run to do this.??



#9 Dugmf12 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 09:48 AM

I forgot to bring this up, but the service manual says the same transaxle was used in the 125, 145, 165, and 195 LGT tractors.  Can I assume that is the differential/hydro/pump only and that there are different axles/axle tubes for the tractors?  I suppose as the first 3 are tube frame there is different mounts as well?  I bring this up because I was talking to a guy about a complete unit off a 165 he had for sale.  He measured the axle length from axle tube mounting point to end of axle and it was 3 1/2 to 4 inches shorter than my comparable measurement.  I was hoping that would have worked out but obviously not. 



#10 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 10:55 AM

Doug, your in for some fun!! First you must remove that weld on the axle!! PERFECTLY! As the bearings have to pass over this part to be able to get the tubes off. Then you need to remove the left side axle tube and then youxcan get the transaxle side cover off. You then need to diss assemble the 4 bolts on the diff and split it. Then and only then can you get the clip off with heavy duty snapring pliers. And remove the axles. OH YES, ITS A JOB!!! But well worth it in the end.
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#11 warrior120 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 11:17 AM

I have the same problem with my wheel horse
Sorry to sabotage your tread but I have a question on this if I were to weld the key back into the axial but heat up the axial and weld it while it is still hot. Would that work or would it just break again

#12 Dugmf12 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 01:04 PM

Skyrydr2,

 

Thank you for the summation of the task at hand.  That is what I was wondering about, a basic process to get this accomplished.  I am sure there are some I details to attend to but at least I know what has to be done.  It might be time to have an "Axle Repair Party"! 

 

Warrior120,

 

No problem asking your question here, you are not sabotaging my thread.  It's comforting to know there are others that have the same issue with these axles. (In a sick kind of way).  It's amazes me that these heavy engineered/built garden tractors have all this capability and heft but where all that torque happens where the hub and axle come together, it all comes down to a wood roof key that is 1/4" by 1 1/8", half moon shaped besides.  Seems to me a weak point.


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#13 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 01:43 PM

...  I have never dealt with a transaxle before so would be a new experience.  I quickly looked at the service manual on disassembly, seemed a little vague...

 

Thank you for the summation of the task at hand.  That is what I was wondering about, a basic process to get this accomplished.  I am sure there are some I details to attend to but at least I know what has to be done.  It might be time to have an "Axle Repair Party"! 

 

 

Please take and post lots of pictures of the procedure. As you have found out by now, there is little information on the net about these great machines. May help out someone in the future, I just hope it is not me. Good luck.

 

Brian


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#14 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 02:35 PM

Some pictures from the manual. Maybe they will help.

Noel

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#15 Dugmf12 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2016 - 03:34 PM

Brian,

 

That is a good idea.  It takes extra time but it might be worth it for somebody else later on.  I know I refer to pictures and documented procedures a lot on here and other forums.  It's a good thing to contribute back.

 

Noel,

 

Thanks for the pictures of the manual.  I glanced over them on line but I work better with a paper copy so I will be printing anything I can on this procedure.  I see you have yours in a 3 ring binder.  I have a binder designated for each of the tractors I have been working on in the past couple years, wiring diagrams, hydraulics, etc.  Whenever I dig into something I print out what I need.  Thanks again.


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