A couple new photos - SSI conversion on the hydro
Posted April 30, 2011 - 09:51 PM
I will pick up some nice stainless acorn-nuts to go with that fancy chrome coil bracket too. The wires are just temp for now, I have a full length wire harness from a Chrysler with the plug to the control box. I will be able to use that harness to build the tractor harness, without making any wires longer.
I found that the coil fit in right here the best. I may paint the coil in Massey Flint Gray when I do the parts.
Then on the back side of the plate, the control box is mounted.
Again, the wires are alligator clip test leads so I can test run the motor.
I set the blower cover on so that I could make sure the coil cleared. I am thinking that I will make a hard fuel line with 90 degree bends to feed through the blower housing. The fuel line will look nice run that way.
So there is is for now. I have the carb & fuel pump fully torn apart and clean. I am just awaiting the new fuel pump rebuild kit and it can be put together. While I am thinking about it, on this Walbro carb, there are two very tiny welsh plugs (like 1/8") I am a bit nervous to remove them. The larger ones were removed to clean the carb, but has anyone ever removed these small ones before?
With any luck, maybe next weekend I can more the tractor around under it's own power. Once I know the motor runs good, I can pull the motor off and get ready to paint the frame. From there, I will be batch painting some of the stuff and putting the tractor back together as I go.
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Posted April 30, 2011 - 10:04 PM
Posted April 30, 2011 - 10:22 PM
On this one, I think I paid under $20 for the new coil on e-bay, and maybe $25 for the control box. (NOS) Plus the cost to do the coil. The ballast resistor was maybe $7 new, another $7 for the plug wire, and the $6.00 for the switch (and about $5 for the Massey Ferguson key-chain from e-bay!)
So you will be into one for about $100 depending on how you build it. The nice thing, is that ALL the parts are either in stock, or close by for very little money if anything fails. I have 1.5 years on my 12G conversion now, and it still starts without choke and at dead idle every time, year round. If you have a junk yard close with old Chrysler stuff, you might get everything, the harness and spares for $20.00 or so depending on how nice the junk yard is. I will also solder and hear shrink ALL terminals at the ends of the wires. When I build the harness, I want to pre-run the wires for the alternator, lamps, and everything else. It's easy to do now while it's all apart and not painted! The harness will be wrapped in split loom and very neat when I am done.
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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:19 AM
- caseguy said thank you
Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:54 AM
Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:00 AM
- Texas Deere and Horse said thank you
Posted May 02, 2011 - 10:12 AM
Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:34 PM
Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:48 PM
Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:22 PM
Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:41 PM
While I like the idea of "so sexy interns", your second assumption is the correct one! But
I thought about it for a while..."so sexy interns"? or more likely "solid state ignition"?
Posted May 02, 2011 - 09:44 PM
Good point! Maybe consider one small section of rubber fuel line right when it comes out of the tank then adapt to the steel line. The rubber section would absorb the vibration.
Oh! I see what you mean! No, the metal line will only pass through the blower housing and return to rubber fuel line. The Tec motor has holes in it where the rubber hose can pass through it, but it's very close to the flywheel, and a pain to run it. I want to just run a steel line, with grommets in the blower housing to keep it from rubbing. Rubber hose from the tank to a filter, filter to steel line. Then out of the steel line to the fuel pump.
Posted May 02, 2011 - 10:05 PM
The Tecumseh motors use a system very much like a car and uses those steel pins and a magnetic sensor to tell the ignition when to fire. On the Tecumseh motors, the coil pack is sensor and storage unit for the spark. This is discharged through the plug wire when told to fire. With the failed SSI, it's normally not the sensor part that fails, so this sensor can tell an external ignition to send the word to a coil to be fired. Enter in the 1970's era Chrysler ignition system and external coil. The modified SSI coil pack (aka CPS sensor) is now telling that Chrysler ignition system when to fire.
It's a very simple system to wire, but you will need the ignition components, a new ignition switch (12v car style) and the tractor will pretty much need to be re-wired. On my 12G, I kept only the harness that went from the motor to the regulator, and the one wire that left the regulator to charge the battery.
I say ditch all the wire, save those if they are in good shape. It's easy to hand wire one at a time, and simple tools will make it easy. I buy un-insulated terminals at Radio-Shack and solder them to the wire. Heat shrink tubing slipped over them make for a perfect terminal.
Here are a few photos of my wiring on the last one. I like the placement better on the hydro, and I have an original plug & harness to use this time so it will look even neater. So, this one will be a bit different as I will not be running all new wires from scratch, but I will run the wires from that harness and solder the connectors. I will have to add some wires as not all wires are contained in that harness, just the three needed off the ignition pack.
Here is a link to Ed's website, he is a great guy to deal with and the cost to convert the coil is $25.00 (plus shipping) There was also a 2 issue write up in LAGC magazine not too long ago.
Tecumseh Solid State Ignitions Replacement
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