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A couple new photos - SSI conversion on the hydro


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#1 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2011 - 09:51 PM

I was picking away at the hydro-12 today for a little bit, and I now have the control box and coil mounted. I wanted to keep it looking as stock as I can, so finding the perfect place took a little work. I have used the location for the stock regulator because the tractor will be getting a GM alternator installed behind the grille for more amps. Because this tractor will run the snow-blower, I plan to install a 12v electric lift, and a proper rear work light for snow removal.

I will pick up some nice stainless acorn-nuts to go with that fancy chrome coil bracket too. The wires are just temp for now, I have a full length wire harness from a Chrysler with the plug to the control box. I will be able to use that harness to build the tractor harness, without making any wires longer.

I found that the coil fit in right here the best. I may paint the coil in Massey Flint Gray when I do the parts.
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Then on the back side of the plate, the control box is mounted.
Again, the wires are alligator clip test leads so I can test run the motor.
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I set the blower cover on so that I could make sure the coil cleared. I am thinking that I will make a hard fuel line with 90 degree bends to feed through the blower housing. The fuel line will look nice run that way.

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So there is is for now. I have the carb & fuel pump fully torn apart and clean. I am just awaiting the new fuel pump rebuild kit and it can be put together. While I am thinking about it, on this Walbro carb, there are two very tiny welsh plugs (like 1/8") I am a bit nervous to remove them. The larger ones were removed to clean the carb, but has anyone ever removed these small ones before?

With any luck, maybe next weekend I can more the tractor around under it's own power. Once I know the motor runs good, I can pull the motor off and get ready to paint the frame. From there, I will be batch painting some of the stuff and putting the tractor back together as I go.
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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2011 - 10:04 PM

Nice job. When all is said & done, how much do you have in a conversion like this? I have one I may be needing to do at some point.

#3 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2011 - 10:22 PM

It really depends on how you do it. My last one I did on my 12G, I dug up a coil & ballast resistor at my Dad's shop (my left over junk from my teens) and picked up the control box from a friend. The switch is about $6.00 or so, and the coil conversion was $25 plus shipping both ways.

On this one, I think I paid under $20 for the new coil on e-bay, and maybe $25 for the control box. (NOS) Plus the cost to do the coil. The ballast resistor was maybe $7 new, another $7 for the plug wire, and the $6.00 for the switch (and about $5 for the Massey Ferguson key-chain from e-bay!)

So you will be into one for about $100 depending on how you build it. The nice thing, is that ALL the parts are either in stock, or close by for very little money if anything fails. I have 1.5 years on my 12G conversion now, and it still starts without choke and at dead idle every time, year round. If you have a junk yard close with old Chrysler stuff, you might get everything, the harness and spares for $20.00 or so depending on how nice the junk yard is. I will also solder and hear shrink ALL terminals at the ends of the wires. When I build the harness, I want to pre-run the wires for the alternator, lamps, and everything else. It's easy to do now while it's all apart and not painted! The harness will be wrapped in split loom and very neat when I am done.
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#4 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:19 AM

Nice work indeed!! You're an inspiration. I'm going to save this thread so when I start my frame up restoration I can use use it for reference. I do question the hard fuel line though. Because it's such a short run, engine vibration along with outside temperature changes (expansion/contraction) may cause leaks in the joints. You may want to consider putting a complete 360 degree loop somewhere in the line to absorb the vibration. In my younger days I was a refrigeration tech. and any time a short refrig. line was run we used to 360 loop the line to avoid vibration leaks or cracks.
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#5 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:54 AM

You're doing a nice ,neat job,looks good.

#6 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:00 AM

The hard line would really be just a length of steel tubing with two 90's bent into the ends. This would sit in rubber grommets in the original holes where the fuel line would run through the blower housing. I am just not a huge fan of running just the rubber hose through it. I loop might cause problems with the fuel as well, I am not sure, but the fuel pump is not really that strong on these.
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#7 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 10:12 AM

Good point! Maybe consider one small section of rubber fuel line right when it comes out of the tank then adapt to the steel line. The rubber section would absorb the vibration.

#8 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:34 PM

What is an SSI conversion?

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 06:48 PM

Looks great! I look forward to seeing your wiring harness. I have to redo the rats nest of splices, bad connections, electrical tape and other messes in my 314 and in the MF8. Poor wiring practices are a pet peeve of mine as I work in the electrical/electronics field.

#10 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:22 PM

I thought about it for a while..."so sexy interns"? or more likely "solid state ignition"?

#11 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:41 PM

I thought about it for a while..."so sexy interns"? or more likely "solid state ignition"?

While I like the idea of "so sexy interns", your second assumption is the correct one! But :bigrofl:

#12 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 09:44 PM

Good point! Maybe consider one small section of rubber fuel line right when it comes out of the tank then adapt to the steel line. The rubber section would absorb the vibration.


Oh! I see what you mean! No, the metal line will only pass through the blower housing and return to rubber fuel line. The Tec motor has holes in it where the rubber hose can pass through it, but it's very close to the flywheel, and a pain to run it. I want to just run a steel line, with grommets in the blower housing to keep it from rubbing. Rubber hose from the tank to a filter, filter to steel line. Then out of the steel line to the fuel pump.

#13 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2011 - 10:05 PM

The SSI (Solid State Ignition) conversion has it's roots going to Ed Stoller (ie: the Stoller conversion) He may not be the one who first did this, I am not sure, but he pretty much mastered the work. His final design has taken the old and failed SSI coil pack and created a "CPS" (or crank position sensor) out of it. Using the stock CPS portion of the SSI unit, he has simplified the internals and rewired it so that the terminal on the failed SSI unit is now the terminal to connect the CPS to the new ignition.

The Tecumseh motors use a system very much like a car and uses those steel pins and a magnetic sensor to tell the ignition when to fire. On the Tecumseh motors, the coil pack is sensor and storage unit for the spark. This is discharged through the plug wire when told to fire. With the failed SSI, it's normally not the sensor part that fails, so this sensor can tell an external ignition to send the word to a coil to be fired. Enter in the 1970's era Chrysler ignition system and external coil. The modified SSI coil pack (aka CPS sensor) is now telling that Chrysler ignition system when to fire.

It's a very simple system to wire, but you will need the ignition components, a new ignition switch (12v car style) and the tractor will pretty much need to be re-wired. On my 12G, I kept only the harness that went from the motor to the regulator, and the one wire that left the regulator to charge the battery.
I say ditch all the wire, save those if they are in good shape. It's easy to hand wire one at a time, and simple tools will make it easy. I buy un-insulated terminals at Radio-Shack and solder them to the wire. Heat shrink tubing slipped over them make for a perfect terminal.

Here are a few photos of my wiring on the last one. I like the placement better on the hydro, and I have an original plug & harness to use this time so it will look even neater. So, this one will be a bit different as I will not be running all new wires from scratch, but I will run the wires from that harness and solder the connectors. I will have to add some wires as not all wires are contained in that harness, just the three needed off the ignition pack.
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Here is a link to Ed's website, he is a great guy to deal with and the cost to convert the coil is $25.00 (plus shipping) There was also a 2 issue write up in LAGC magazine not too long ago.
Tecumseh Solid State Ignitions Replacement

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