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Bolens 1050 Tube Frame PTO Shaft Repair


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#16 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 04:28 PM

The L pieces got welded on and then I did a test fit with the arms bolted in position and after tweaking the bends a little I had the U part centred around the pulley.  I used an old belt to make sure it would sit away from the pulley inside the shield to let the PTO turn freely and that the shield would not rub on the belt when it was pulled into the pulley groove.  I tacked things together and then I cut off the excess metal on the arms and used the two pieces to plate the arms from the bend to the U piece by tacking them in position. After removing the pulley and shaft I unbolted the shield and finished welding it up. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Guard Clamped To Be Tacked.jpg
  • 2 L Shaped Pieces Welded On For Strength.jpg
  • 3 Checked For Clearance Using Old Belt.jpg
  • 4 Belt Pulled Into Groove.jpg
  • 5 Shield Tacked And Removed From PTO Housing.jpg
  • 6 Shield Tacked And Removed From PTO Housing.jpg
  • 7 Excess Metal Cut Off And Ready To Be Welded.jpg
  • 8 Excess Metal Pieces Ready To Be Welded.jpg
  • 9 Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 10 Pieces Welded.jpg

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#17 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 04:40 PM

That is some nice work you are doing. Thanks for the pics of the process.


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#18 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 04:41 PM

I then set the shield back on the housing with the pulley and shaft in place and verified the shield would still slide ahead enough to be able to put the belts on.  Then the shield got cleaned up for painting and I gave it a coat of paint.  If you concentrate really hard and use your imagination you can almost see the metallic in the brown paint. :(

 

Seriously - I did check with an automotive store that sells paint but they did not have a mix formula for the 1965 AMC P-12-A colour which did not surprise me as I think our VOC compliant rules are tougher in Canada than the U.S. and a lot of the older formulas got dropped when the new VOC compliant tinters got introduced.  I thought if they had a mix they could put in a spray bomb I would get one made and do the PTO and shield to see what the colour looks like up close.  I will have to check into it further when I get time and see if another manufacturer has anything available.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Sheild Slid Ahead For Belt Installation Check.jpg
  • 2 Ready For Paint.jpg
  • 3 Ready For Paint.jpg
  • 4 Painted.jpg
  • 5 Painted.jpg

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#19 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2016 - 06:04 PM

Did some more to the shaft that I welded the worn splines on in post #9.  I made a slotting tool and tried to clean out the weld in the splines and tried it over the weekend - http://gardentractor...repair-splines/  .  I found that the tool bit wanted to hog in since it was extended out from the bit holder and wanted to spring a bit.  I decided to try a 1/8" key seat cutter and see how it would work cleaning out the weld in the splines and it did a nice job in my opinion.  Here are pictures of the finished spline after I was done cleaning out the weld - once I had the spline looking good I tried it on a spare pulley I have and it slid right on.  After that I cut a new groove for the snap ring.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cleaning Up Side Of Splines With Key Seat Cutter.jpg
  • 2 Finished Splines.jpg
  • 3 Finished Splines.jpg
  • 4 Finished Splines.jpg
  • 5 Finished Splines.jpg
  • 6 Finished Splines.jpg
  • 7 Finished Splines.jpg
  • 8 Pulley On Shaft.jpg
  • 9 Snap Ring Groove Cut.jpg
  • 10 Pulley On Shaft.jpg
  • 11 Pulley On Shaft.jpg

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#20 AA Hayes OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2016 - 06:26 PM

Looking good!
I have a friend in the auto body field, I will see if he can come up with anything for he paint code.

Edited by AA Hayes, April 11, 2016 - 06:28 PM.


#21 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2016 - 06:34 PM

Looking good!
I have a friend in the auto body field, I will see if he can come up with anything for he paint code.

Thanks - I think I have found a place that can supply the paint - will know in a week or two.


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#22 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2016 - 07:12 PM

Started to work on the pulley that was welded on to the shaft backwards (as shown in post #1) today.  I mounted it in the lathe and bored it out so that a piece of 1" diameter cold rolled steel would just press inside by hand.  Then I angled the bore at the rear to allow the weld to have good penetration for the insert.  I cut the 1" cold rolled steel to a length of 1.25" and then I placed it into the pulley and welded it with the mig welder at the front and back sides of the pulley.  I also built up the area where it had been welded on the front side of the pulley with weld and then I let things cool.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pulley Mounted In Lathe.jpg
  • 2 Pulley Ready To Bore.jpg
  • 3 Starting To Bore Inside.jpg
  • 4 Pulley Bored.jpg
  • 5 Back SIde Of Pulley.jpg
  • 6 Tapered For Weld.jpg
  • 7 One Inch Cold Rolled.jpg
  • 8 Round Piece In Position To Weld.jpg
  • 9 Front Side Of Pulley.jpg
  • 10 Insert Welded.jpg
  • 11 Front Side.jpg

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#23 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 05:14 PM

Machined the weld on the front of the pulley, drilled a 1/2" hole and then I bored the inside to .5625" (9/16") diameter and machined the 3/4" recess at the front.  Then I turned the pulley around and faced the rear where I welded it. I decided that I would cut the spline using a 3/16" broach that I had purchased a couple of years ago to repair the spline in a PTO yoke since it did a nice job on it.  The 9/16" bore is not large enough for the finished spline but allows the 9/16" insert for the broach to be used which results in the inside of the spline to be just shy of .750" inside.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Front End Faced.jpg
  • 2 Drilling Half Inch Hole.jpg
  • 3 Hole Bored And Recess Machined.jpg
  • 4 Rear Weld Faced.jpg


#24 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 05:27 PM

Next I indexed the pulley for the six keyways that would be cut with the 3/16" broach to create the spline.  I still had the pie chart that I printed off using Microsoft excel when I did the PTO spline so I mounted it on the lathe spindle and then threaded the chuck back on and trued up the pulley.  Then I set up the dial indicator to act as a pointer for the chart and turned the chuck so the mark on the chart lined up with the dial guage and when it did I scribed a mark on the face of the pulley with the lathe bit.  Rotated the chuck to the next mark and scribed another mark until I had six equally spaced marks on the pulley face.  I chucked the 9/16" broach bushing in the chuck and scribed a mark with the lathe bit in it to use as an alignment mark when I cut the keyways.  Then I removed the pulley from the lathe and moved to the press.  I set the bushing in the pulley and inserted the broach after I applied some oil to it and the pulley and pressed the broach through the pulley to form the first keyway pass - I verified that the insert mark was aligned with one of the index marks on the pulley face first   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 5 Using Dial Gauge As Pointer.jpg
  • 6 First Indexing Mark.jpg
  • 7 Index Marks.jpg
  • 8 Index Mark In Collet.jpg
  • 9 Bushing Set In Pulley To line Up Mark.jpg
  • 10 Broach In Bushing For First Cut In Homemade Press.jpg
  • 11 Close Up Of Broach.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, April 13, 2016 - 05:31 PM.

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#25 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 05:47 PM

The second picture shows what the pulley looked like after the first pass with the broach.  Then I rotated the insert until it lined up with the next index mark and pressed the broach through again and you can see in the third picture the results. After four more passes it was beginning to look like a spline.  The broach requires a shim and a second pass to cut a keyway given the amount of material that has to be removed - to do it in one pass would require a lot of force and possibly break the broach.  So I inserted the shim and pressed the broach through again.  I did two passes 180 degrees from each other before I did the rest to verify the inside distance of the two grooves and it was about .740" which is .010" too small for the finished spline.  I placed a .005" piece of brass shim stock behind the shim and pressed the broach though again in the opposite direction resulting in 6 equally spaced grooves that measured .750" inside to inside. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Checking Mark For Alignment.jpg
  • 2 First Cut.jpg
  • 3 Second Cut.jpg
  • 4 First Passes Done.jpg
  • 5 Shim And Bushing.jpg
  • 6 Shim In Place For Second Passes.jpg
  • 7 Two Passes To Verify Diameter Of Spline.jpg
  • 8 Second Passes Done.jpg
  • 9 Rear View.jpg
  • 10 After Broached WIth Shim From Other Way.jpg

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#26 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2016 - 06:12 PM

Then it was back to the lathe to bore the inside out to the correct inside diameter and hope that the PTO shaft would fit.  I believe the spline is a standard 3/4" 6B spline given the measurements and the inside diameter for that spline should be .637" to .638" for a slide together fit according to the machinist charts I found.  I bored the inside to .620" and did a test fit to see if the shaft was close to fitting and it actually slid in about 1/4" into the spline before it got tight.  I took another .005" cut and tried the shaft again and it slid inside by hand but was a very snug fit.  I tried the front spline of the PTO shaft in the pulley and it started in about 1/4" and stopped which made sense since it probably has a bit less wear than the rear.  I took another .002" cleanup cut out of the pulley and the rear spline was a nice easy fit so I stopped there.  Since it will wear a little bit with time and the splines where I built them up are a good fit I didn't figure there was much point of making it any looser.  The last picture shows how far the pulley will fit on the front spline by hand - still too snug for a hand fit but the pulley will work fine on the rear spline and should outlast me.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 11 Bored Inside Of Spline So Shaft Would Fit.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit Of Shaft.jpg
  • 13 Shaft In Pulley.jpg
  • 14 Shaft In Pulley.jpg
  • 15 As Far As Pulley Fits On Front Spline By Hand.jpg

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