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Bolens 1050 Tube Frame PTO Shaft Repair


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#1 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2016 - 01:01 PM

With the modification to the upgrade on my homemade snow blower tested and so far working (http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/51639-homemade-two-stage-snow-blower-speed-reduction-upgrade/ ) I have decided to turn my attention to repairing the PTO shaft that I broke on my 1050.  I picked up a 1053 parts tractor this summer which uses the same PTO components (double groove pulley setup) and had a look at the PTO unit from it in hopes that it might be in good shape but the shaft from it is not the best candidate.  Someone has welded the pulley onto the shaft (originally it was splined and had a snap ring on either side to hold it in position on the shaft) which is not uncommon to see if the splines inside the pulley wear out but for some reason they chose to put the pulley on backwards.  I mounted the shaft in the lathe and it ran true so I tried to turn the weld off but it was very hard so I went to plan B and used the die grinder with a 3” cut off blade and ground the weld away and removed the pulley from the shaft.  The splines are worn on the one side where the pulley would go which happens over time as the pulley is not locked on the shaft.  The splines will have to be built up as well as the area where I ground the weld which can be done but the shaft is also worn where the needle bearing runs.  The shaft was probably hardened where the needle bearing ran originally so I am not sure how long it would  last if the area was built up and then turned down.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 1053 PTO Shaft And Pulley.jpg
  • 2 1053 PTO Shaft And Pulley.jpg
  • 3 1053 PTO Shaft And Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Pulley Shaft And PTO Housing.jpg
  • 5 Pulley Weld Ground.jpg
  • 6 Remains Of Splines In Pulley.jpg
  • 7 Worn Splines On PTO Shaft.jpg
  • 8 Worn Splines On PTO Shaft Half Turn.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, February 27, 2016 - 02:37 PM.

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#2 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2016 - 01:28 PM

I was also able to get a NOS shaft 1721596 for the single belt pulley set up which is keyed with a half moon key from one of our site sponsors - Rick Show.  I did some research and the smaller tube frames such as the 850 use this shaft (under the old part numbers of 1715563 and 1721589 which sub to the 1721596) but the housing it mounts in is the same part number as the 1050 so the shaft should work in my housing.  In comparing the two shafts the front snap ring grooves are in the same location (for some reason the 1053 has a third groove which I think someone added when they welded the pulley on).  The rear end of the shaft is about 1/8” shorter, has the single keyway and no snap ring grooves.  I am thinking it would be possible to bushing the double groove pulley, cut a new 3/16” keyway and then drill the pulley from the side for two set screws.  This method would eliminate the need for the snap ring grooves to hold the pulley in position at the rear and should let me use the new shaft - the elimination of the two snap ring grooves should come very close to the difference in the shaft lengths.  I will have to do some more thinking this weekend and go from there.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 PTO shaft 1721596.jpg
  • 2 Shafts Side By Side.jpg
  • 3 Front Of Shafts.jpg
  • 4 Rear Of Shafts.jpg
  • 5 Difference In Length.jpg
  • 6 Pulley Location Versus Keyway.jpg
  • 7 Old Shaft Worn At Needle Bearing Location.jpg
  • 8 New Shaft Diameter At Bearing Location.jpg
  • 9 Splined Shaft Overall Length.jpg
  • 10 Keyed Shaft Length.jpg

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#3 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 09:43 AM

You definitely love a challenge.
Also good to know that the shafts may be compatible, will be following up on this.
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#4 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 02:56 PM

  I am thinking it would be possible to bushing the double groove pulley, cut a new 3/16” keyway and then drill the pulley from the side for two set screws.  This method would eliminate the need for the snap ring grooves to hold the pulley in position at the rear and should let me use the new shaft.

 

 

If you decide to pursue this, I suggest "spotting" the shaft with a drill, where the set screws will make contact.  ...A slight recess in the shaft will prevent fore-aft movement of the pulley, while the keyway will take the torque needed for rotation.


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#5 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 05:26 PM

If you decide to pursue this, I suggest "spotting" the shaft with a drill, where the set screws will make contact.  ...A slight recess in the shaft will prevent fore-aft movement of the pulley, while the keyway will take the torque needed for rotation.

Thanks Bruce - will keep that in mind - from what I have seen there should not be much front / back force on the pulley if it is lined up properly with the engine pulley - the two snap rings at the front bearing should be the ones that control the front / back force that the PTO shaft from the attachment puts on it as it moves up and down in the slip joint.movement of the shaft.  Another option would be to recess the front and back side of the pulley the width of the snap ring and cut two snap ring grooves in the keyed shaft.  Should not weaken the shaft much and would prevent any front / back movement - still  would put set screws in the pulley to keep it tight on the shaft to prevent wearing of the key / keyway / keyseat.  Still mulling my options over.   


Edited by 29 Chev, February 28, 2016 - 05:37 PM.

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#6 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2016 - 07:06 PM

Just thought of another option.  I could get two 4" pulleys and a weld in hub for a 3/4" shaft and make a new double groove pulley to fit the keyed shaft. That way I could keep the original pulley and respline it to work with the proper shaft. 

 

https://www.allparts...ItemNumber=PLW4

 

https://www.allparts...temNumber=RBW34

 

 

The original double groove pulley is slightly larger than 4" so the PTO would be a little slower but there should be enough adjustment that I could reuse the original belts.


Edited by 29 Chev, February 28, 2016 - 07:07 PM.

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#7 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2016 - 04:40 PM

I am still debating whether to use the keyed shaft as I checked into off the shelf pulleys and the closest I could find were 4" outside diameter and they are made on a different angle where the belts go - the original double pulley is the same outside diameter as the engine pulley 4.20" which would be almost 1/4" difference and after trying a belt in the off the shelf pulley I found that it sunk into the grooves a bit more than the stock pulley. I may make a new one the correct size out of steel turned on the lathe - time will tell.  In the meantime I decided to try and weld the broken piece of the shaft back on.  I clamped the shaft and the broken piece in a piece of 1" x 1/8" angle iron and tacked them back together by welding a tack on each spline.  I then put the shaft in the lathe and it had about 1/8" of run out so I ground three of the tack welds so I could  straighten it and retacked the welds.  I made a jig to clamp the shaft in that held the shaft steady wile I ground and welded it.  The shaft seemed to weld pretty nice so I V ground out a section of the shaft with the die grinder using a 3" cut off blade, filled it in with weld, let it cool and checked to see how much it had warped by mounting it in the lathe.  It distorted a little bit so I decided to V ground another section 180 degrees from the first one, welded it back in, let it cool and checked it in the lathe again.  It had distorted back to being virtually true so I turned the shaft 90 degrees and did the V ground out / weld procedure a third time, rotated it 180 degrees and did the procedure one last time.  This allowed me to get good penetration with the welds to give the broken end most of it's strength back again.  I checked it in the lathe and it looked good so I finished building up the splines with weld and let it cool.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Broken Piece Tacked Back On.jpg
  • 2 Broken Piece Tacked Back On.jpg
  • 3 Jig To Support Shaft.jpg
  • 4 Shaft Clamped In Jig.jpg
  • 5 Break Ground Out On One Side.jpg
  • 6 Break Ground Out On One Side.jpg
  • 7 Ground Out Area Welded Back In.jpg
  • 8 Shaft Rotated 180 and Ground Out.jpg
  • 9 Welded Back In.jpg
  • 10 Shaft Rotated 90 And Ground Out.jpg
  • 11 Welded Back In.jpg
  • 12 Rotated 180 And Ground.jpg
  • 13 Welded Back IN.jpg

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#8 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2016 - 04:52 PM

Using the die grinder I worked away at the splines by grinding the weld away.  Once I had the rough shape I switched to the 90 degree sander to level the outside of the shaft and chucked the die grinder arbor with the cut off blade in a 3/8" electric drill so I could control it easier as I finished shaping the splines trying not to remove any more material than I had to.  I had two extra slip joints and test fitted them on the spline periodically and once they slid on nicely I ran a drill bit through the pin hole and called it a day.  I am not sure if the shaft will last but I am going to give it a try as I figure the worst that will happen is it will break off again in which case I can still use this shaft for a lawn mower deck or other attachment that drives off the rear of it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Spline Shape Roughed Out.jpg
  • 2 Spline Shape Roughed Out.jpg
  • 3 Outside Of Splines Smoothed WIth Sanding Disc.jpg
  • 4 Outside Of Splines Smoothed WIth Sanding Disc.jpg
  • 5 Die Grinder And Ninety Degree Sander.jpg
  • 6 Spline Finished With Arbor Chuck In Drill.jpg
  • 7 Spline End View.jpg
  • 8 Side View Of Spline.jpg
  • 9 Weld Drilled Out From Pin Hole.jpg
  • 10 Not Perfect But Should Function.jpg
  • 11 Slip Joint Fits.jpg
  • 12 Second Slip Join Fits.jpg

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#9 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2016 - 02:37 PM

I decided to try and repair the needle bearing area and worn splines on the shaft shown in post # 1 by welding them to build them up and then turning them back down to size.  Since I have an extra PTO housing it is my hope that I can repair the shaft and pulley and mount them in the extra housing and then run it for the summer on the 1050 I use to cut the lawn - that way I can keep an eye on it for wear and see how the needle bearing area stands up.  I got the areas on the shaft welded, let it cool and then I turned them in the lathe. This is as far as I got - next I will have to clean up the splines - not sure whether I will use the die grinder or make a shaper tool for the lathe and clean them out with a tool bit.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bearing Surface And Worn Splines Welded.jpg
  • 2 Bearing Surface And Worn Splines Welded.jpg
  • 3 Ready To Start Turning.jpg
  • 4 Partially Turned.jpg
  • 5 Rough Finish.jpg
  • 6 Area Polished.jpg
  • 7 Turning Splined Area.jpg
  • 8 Splined Area Finish Turned.jpg
  • 9 Splined Area Rotated.jpg
  • 10 Splined Area Rotated.jpg

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#10 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2016 - 03:45 PM

Still debating on how to shape the grooves in the one PTO shaft but with spring here I thought I had better get a PTO unit back together and on my summer 1050 so for now I will probably put the shaft that I broke and welded the end on back in the housing and stick it on the tractor.  With that in mind I decided to start working on a new belt shield.  I had an extra belt guard for around the engine pulley so I compared it with the PTO guard on my other 1050 and it looked to be the same shape (about 4-1/2" inside) on the half round part but the engine guard appeared to be a little wider on the open end (about 5").  I used a 4-1/2" flap wheel I had and drew a 3/4 round circle with it and the centre hole on a sheet of paper.  In the past I have used the sheet metal brake to bend and form flat steel but it has never worked out 100% to my liking.  Did some research on some metal forming forums and decided to build a simple tool that I could mount in the vise to shape the flat steel that will go around the PTO pulley.  Used some 1" x 1/8" wall square tubing and two pieces of 1" x 1/8" flat steel 2" long to make a slot by welding them onto the square tubing.  Then I used a short piece of 1" x 1/8" flat steel to close in the slot at the top.  After that was made I mounted it in the bench vise and started to bend a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/2" flat steel by hand moving it through the slot a little bit as I bent it a little.  I would stop periodically and compare it with the drawing to make sure it was bending in the proper shape and if it wasn't I would just bend it a little more or back a little bit to change the shape and eventually I had a U shape made. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Spare Engine Guard.jpg
  • 2 Four And A Half Inch Flap Wheel.jpg
  • 3 Circle Drawn WIth Centre.jpg
  • 4 Tool To Bend Flat Steel.jpg
  • 5 Starting To Bend Steel.jpg
  • 6 Checking Bend.jpg
  • 7 U Formed.jpg

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#11 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2016 - 03:59 PM

With the U formed I decided to add the lip at one end by mounting it in my homemade tool and clamping it with a pair of vise grips and then forming the lip with another pair of vise grips.  Then I drew an outline of the engine shield on the drawing over the circle and continued shaping the U until I got it where it looked fairly close - I kept the open end so that where it straightens stayed at 4-1/2" inside.  Once I had it shaped I bent the other lip by clamping the shield in the tool and using a pipe wrench.  Once it was bent I cut the excess metal off and did a test fit to see how it fit against the flap wheel and around the PTO pulley.  Next I will have to make the two brackets that bolt to the PTO housing and weld them to the U piece.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 8 Bending Lip At End.jpg
  • 9 Bending Bottom Half Of Lip.jpg
  • 10 Added Outline Of Engine Shield To Drawing.jpg
  • 11 Test Fit Of Guard To Determine Where To Cut.jpg
  • 12 Bending Othe Lip.jpg
  • 13 Metal Reversed And Using Pipe Wrench.jpg
  • 14 Test Fit.jpg
  • 15 Excess Metal Cut Off.jpg
  • 16 Test Fit Around Flap Wheel.jpg
  • 17 Test Fit Around PTO Pulley.jpg
  • 18 Test Fit Around PTO Pulley.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, April 14, 2016 - 08:15 PM.

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#12 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 06:26 PM

Got a start made on the two brackets that will bolt to the PTO housing.  I did not have any 3/4" wide flat steel so I went with 1" x 1/8" flat steel and notched them at the front so they can slide ahead to let the belts go on easily.  I bent them the first time and found out I had the bend too far back so I straightened them back out and bent them closer to the bolt holes.  I got the shaft back in the housing and did some test fits to see how things will look.  I left the brackets lots long as I was not sure exactly where to bend them and will trim the excess once I get everything tack welded.  I think I will plate the brackets with another piece of 1/8" x 1" flat steel as they seem a little springy - I think the original brackets used 3/4" x 3/16" thick material judging by the guard on my other 1050.  Fortunately today I had some "Cat "supervision so I did not get into too much trouble.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Brackets Bent.jpg
  • 2 Bends In Brackets Too Far Back.jpg
  • 3 Brackets Rebent.jpg
  • 4 Second Test Fit.jpg
  • 5 Checking Spacing.jpg
  • 6 Bracket Notched.jpg
  • 7 Brackets Bolted On.jpg
  • 8 Test Fit Around Pulley.jpg
  • 9 Test Fit Aroound Pulley.jpg
  • 10 My Assistant.jpg

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#13 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 07:37 PM

Looks good,see you had some help
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#14 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 07:38 PM

Great job on that guard! Those are getting harder and harder to find and are a hard to straighten out.
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#15 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2016 - 04:17 PM

Great job on that guard! Those are getting harder and harder to find and are a hard to straighten out.

They are scarce in my part of the world and you are correct the original ones are hard to straighten if bent.  The one I had on it was one I made when I got the tractor and I didn't even bother trying to straighten it after it got jammed in the snow caster auger - as you can see from the picture it is a little twisted.  It looks like it broke at the bend which is one of the reasons I wanted to reinforce the 1/8" flat steel arms with another piece.  Made two L pieces to plate the two arms and drilled some 5/16" holes in them to weld them through to the arms. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old SHield.jpg
  • 1 Reinforcenment Pieces.jpg
  • 2 Test Fit Of Pieces.jpg

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