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Painting Cement, Questions

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#16 Bill 76 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 04:56 PM

I had a friend that painted his block garage with a mix of white Portland cement and lime and some kind of tint--it lasted for decades.

goggle it and there might be something on how to do it.

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#17 James Bosma OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:49 PM

Really can't beat oil based for durability though, painted the foundation on my house in 2014 it's latex and already wearing off, the coat before that was oil based and was on there for 30 years. I never cared for latex paint.

Since the first coat was oil base paint it requires a special prime to switch over to latex paint or it will peel of like you said it has

There is a wet nap like test to see if oil or latex paints available, The one I have here is called Paint Detective

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#18 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 09:07 PM

Has got to be C L E A N before anything will stick.  I would use "Do It Best" brand all purpose sealer first, then good quality paint over it.  Their sealer is just as good a Thompsons water seal and cheaper by the gallon.  Only exterior paint I will use is True Value.  They make their own pain.  I used their Latex to paint over red lead based barn paint, hand brushed on, one coat and it is still staying on and that was over 22 years ago.  It definitely needs another coat now.  I sold the property 15 years ago.

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 10:04 PM

Wow, thank guys for the info.
I may have to look again at the block filler...

Does anyone have any experience with linseed paint (it seems to be the main ingredient in most oil base stuff now.)
Just wondering if it will do as well as Google says it will.


About all I can compare to for you was in my sign painting days, and we did use linseed oil a lot! Most block walls were already painted by the building owner and then we would paint the signs in an oil base sign paint often cutting it with linseed oil to slow drying speed a bit increase the "flow" into the pores. It would also help preserve gloss. Hot summer days required a considerable amount of linseed oil and when painting pictorals we would even use a "jelled" version of it called "Smith's Cream" to get the colors to blend.


Anyway I got to a point where quite often painting on a bare poured concrete wall was required at a local racetrack retaining wall. The linseed oil mix with a white primer called "block out" stuck great with a good pressure wash before applying. Let it dry real well of course before applying the paint. The block out was basically just a fast drying oil-base primer and could be compared to oil base "Kilz" if you know what that is. As some of the folks said, oil can go over latex, but latex can't go over oil.


It may work great, but I can't promise anything. Oh did you know the word "Linoleum" was derived from mixing linseed oil with oleum spirits? That's how the early stuff was manufactured poured in sheets with tints and textures added (which may have contained a lot of lead) and allowed to slowly dry.


Sorry about the book and probably confusion!



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#20 oldedeeres ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2016 - 01:37 PM

I should paint my basement floor this year so I'm finding all this very helpful. Thanks for the thread.
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#21 MH81 OFFLINE  


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Posted February 27, 2016 - 03:20 PM

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#22 Alc ONLINE  



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Posted March 04, 2016 - 05:35 PM

Thought I would post some pictures of what not is painted on a block wall but on 2" x 2'x8' Styrofoam panels , glued to a block wall . This I did over 30 years ago . There was a Styrofoam brand kit that had mesh tape ( like what they used for drywall )  and a powered product and acrylic additive .Had to scratch the foam board with a wire brush .Mix  in a bucket and put on with a heavy duty brush . There are some small hairline cracks and spot where the mice thought  might get in but it stuck fine . I'm sure you can find something like that will work for your blocks


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#23 MH81 OFFLINE  


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Posted March 05, 2016 - 07:07 AM

Looks very nice Al.
Thank you.