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Painting Cement, Questions


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#1 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 07:58 AM

Trying to give an old cement block building a coat of paint.
The retired painter I know said Latex Block Fill from Sherman Williams with a Top Coat of Latex Paint
$27 a gal and 90sq ft coverage. Looking at 23 cans of the stuff. It'd be $700 with topcoat.

I did som googling and saw a few posts about the benefit of Boiled Linseed Oil with tint and Mineral Spirits as a paint for blocks. The reviews were very positive... And it would be less than half the cost.
When I asked my painter friend, he was almost aggressive about using some oil based home brew.

Since I didn't have enough conflicting opinions, I thought I'd ask here.
Anyone have an opinion or suggestion?

#2 karl OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:02 AM

Use cement floor paint.


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:13 AM

I've only painted a floor one time as it was very rough and held a lot of dust. This was 25~ years ago. I found some cheap oil base at Big Lots. The first coat I cut 50-50 with paint thinner to soak in. Second and final coat, about 25% paint thinner. Seemed to hold up well. Took a while to dry, though.


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#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:13 AM

Biggest problem with block is if it has broken up, what's that called, grainy,  dusty, can't find solid base......durn, too late and I'm tired now!  Anyway, surface falls off as you paint, and/or will fall off later taking paint with it and looks all flaky and patchy. IN other words, if solid good block, any latex should work. If falling surface material, that will never really wash away, just go deeper as you clean, then just side it with something.  Effervescent??  Not sure spelling, that is it I think!


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#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:26 AM

Efflorescence I think is how it's spelled. If that is happening it will be hard to get any paint to stick to it for long. There are some instructions on line for getting rid of it, but it's quite a job, involving muriatic acid and alkaline rinses etc. It's much harder to do that on a vertical surface than on floor. 

   We have that cement Hardy Board siding on the church. It was let go too long before being painted and some spots are powdery and flakey. The advise I got was to use a super adherent primer after brushing away any loose corrosion and flaking, then apply the top coat. The Primer was 50$ a gallon. Not really affordable on an entire building but OK for spot repairs. That was last spring. We'll see how it survived the winter. 


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#6 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:28 AM

I did a house foundation on my first house. I just cleaned real well then used a good exterior primer then painted over it will an exterior latex. It held up for w couple years we lived there, new owners repainted it after they moved in.

Just takes a lot of paint!


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#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:46 AM

We did the inside block wall in the basement garage with a dry powered product that you mix with water called SUNNY DRY 30+ years ago ,, I did a search and couldn't find it anywhere but this seems similar by Thoroseal    http://www.midlandha...bQ#.VtBU_f72aM8   anyway , it's a pita to put on with a stiff brush but seals the block great , I ran out with just a few blocks left so I figured it would just take a few extra coats of the gray oil base top coat to look the same ,, no way the oil based paint just sucked into the block , I gave up after about 4 coats lol you can still see which blocks those are .  I don't know how the costs compare with the Sherman Williams


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#8 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 08:49 AM

We painted the floor of our office with the garage floor enamel.  It went on great, and has held up awesome.

 

We painted the interior block walls with just latex paint out of a spray gun.  It's holding up so far.


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#9 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 09:19 AM

I'll ask Rick Show to chime in, he's a retired painter and has done every type of buildings inside and out with every product under the sun residential, commercial and industrial, I'd value his opinions on what for where .


Trying to give an old cement block building a coat of paint.
The retired painter I know said Latex Block Fill from Sherman Williams with a Top Coat of Latex Paint
$27 a gal and 90sq ft coverage. Looking at 23 cans of the stuff. It'd be $700 with topcoat.
I did som googling and saw a few posts about the benefit of Boiled Linseed Oil with tint and Mineral Spirits as a paint for blocks. The reviews were very positive... And it would be less than half the cost.
When I asked my painter friend, he was almost aggressive about using some oil based home brew.
Since I didn't have enough conflicting opinions, I thought I'd ask here.
Anyone have an opinion or suggestion?


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#10 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 09:43 AM

Pressure wash the block first. All the dust in the porous block will be a mess to paint.
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#11 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 10:13 AM

I've been using Sherwin-Williams White Traffic Paint on the block walls of our carwash.

 

It holds up very well for our use.  ...The walls have been painted previously, so no primer was used.

 

Cars drive over it, oil, salt & grease don't affect it, and roads are not prepped or primed before application.

 

It is water-based, and can be brushed, sprayed, or rolled, and has a very quick drying time.

 

I think it was approx. $105 for a 5 gal. pail when I last bought it 2 or 3 years ago.


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#12 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 10:15 AM

Well as others have said,getting it good clean is the first important step,thoroseal does work well for sealing water out but is a pain to put on,if you get it good and clean and any loose paint off,I really like Sherwin Williams block fill,and there A-100 Satin finish really works well and looks good,I would put 2 coats of finish on it for the protection,just remember if your getting any moisture or water in the block,nothing will hold up,I know it's pricey doing it this way but you will like the results,your right,your only going to get approx 75-100 square ft with the block filler,just don't spread it out to thin,I usually add a gallon of primer to a five of block filler,makes it go on a little easier,use a heavy napth roller cover also (1 1/4"),if you have acess to a sprayer even better,makes things a whole lot easier,1" cover for finish coat,was a pained for almost 40 years,but never claimed to know it all,products are changing every day,all this is just my thoughts,good luck,feel free to get a hold of me if you need anything else,also if you but it buy the 5 gallon can,its usually cheaper


Edited by blackjackjakexxix, February 26, 2016 - 11:00 AM.

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#13 CanadianHobbyFarmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 11:24 AM

I am not a painter (my brother in law is). I would look into the cost of 1x4 strapping and vinyl siding. It would probably take a little bit longer (or maybe not, depending on how much prep work you will need before paint), but would likely be cheaper and it will last longer than any paint will.

 

Jim


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#14 Tecumseh power ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 12:36 PM

Really can't beat oil based for durability though, painted the foundation on my house in 2014 it's latex and already wearing off, the coat before that was oil based and was on there for 30 years. I never cared for latex paint.

#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2016 - 12:55 PM

Wow, thank guys for the info.
I may have to look again at the block filler...

Does anyone have any experience with linseed paint (it seems to be the main ingredient in most oil base stuff now.)
Just wondering if it will do as well as Google says it will.
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