
New to me mf12
#1
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 11:26 AM
- DH1, DMAX, limebuzz and 1 other said thanks
#2
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 11:43 AM
Noel
- collinmf12 said thank you
#3
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 12:00 PM
Good Stuff, looks like a late model with the hump on the top of the right side foot panel. That should work good for you at plowday.
- IamSherwood and collinmf12 have said thanks
#4
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 01:02 PM
Nice, I have one of those tractors. Nice tires too, but I was wondering what size they are. I have 23x8.50x12 on my tractor. Yours look bigger, but mine are Duro tires, not the same as yours. Maybe that's the reason they look different in size.
Noel
Mine are 23x8.50x12 to I think the picture makes them look bigger
- propane1 said thank you
#5
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 01:08 PM
Good Stuff, looks like a late model with the hump on the top of the right side foot panel. That should work good for you at plowday.
Yeah It is a 1975 model
- DH1 said thank you
#6
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 04:21 PM
Gotta keep in mind those manuals suggest that carb settings to just make it run enough to adjust. You have to adjust and listen to get correct and even. Also at times between the idle and the Hi-spd you have to go back and forth between them and re-adjust many times till you find the best workable position. I like to remive the needles and blow cleaner and air thru the holes first if you can. Not a lot, just some to help clean out. Running carb cleaner in the gas for a few tanks is good idea too on bringing them back to life. At times you need to keep the idle mix just a little rich so when you crack throttle it doesn't cut-out or big lag in transition to higher speed. Set, listen, try. many times over.
- limebuzz and collinmf12 have said thanks
#7
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 05:03 PM
Gotta keep in mind those manuals suggest that carb settings to just make it run enough to adjust. You have to adjust and listen to get correct and even. Also at times between the idle and the Hi-spd you have to go back and forth between them and re-adjust many times till you find the best workable position. I like to remive the needles and blow cleaner and air thru the holes first if you can. Not a lot, just some to help clean out. Running carb cleaner in the gas for a few tanks is good idea too on bringing them back to life. At times you need to keep the idle mix just a little rich so when you crack throttle it doesn't cut-out or big lag in transition to higher speed. Set, listen, try. many times over.
Ok thanks for the info appreciate it I didn't realize that.
#8
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Posted February 25, 2016 - 08:22 PM
Hurts my neck to look at the pics and compare to my 1975 12G, but one thing I noticed is that mine doesn't have the shields from the footboards up to the rear fender. I've seen them before but always thought it was a hydro thing. Looks like a good score for the money!
DAC
- collinmf12 said thank you
#9
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Posted February 26, 2016 - 03:30 PM
Hurts my neck to look at the pics and compare to my 1975 12G, but one thing I noticed is that mine doesn't have the shields from the footboards up to the rear fender. I've seen them before but always thought it was a hydro thing. Looks like a good score for the money!
DAC
As soon as I seen that for $200 I knew I had to buy it
- limebuzz and MFDAC have said thanks
#10
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Posted April 19, 2016 - 06:46 PM
Good Stuff, looks like a late model with the hump on the top of the right side foot panel. That should work good for you at plowday.
What do you mean here Doug?