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Broken cast iron repair


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#1 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 06:10 AM

While getting my Kohler 482S ready to install the "new" exhaust manifold, several things happened.  Not surprisingly, two of the four bolts holding the manifold to the block snapped off.  I've been soaking the stubs in PB Blaster for several days now, alternating applying heat and tapping the stubs. They're both still firmly rusted in place.  I bought a drill extractor set (Easy Out) and will tackle drilling them out today or tomorrow.  That's not the real problem, however.

 

While removing one of the other rusted-in bolts (which did come out), the tab or "ear" that it screws into on the cast iron manifold broke off.  I have been staring at it for several days now, trying to figure out what to do.  I DON'T want to replace the block!  I'm considering drilling a new bolt hole through the tab on the manifold and then drilling and tapping the corresponding spot on the block.  It looks like there is room to do that on both the manifold and the block. The broken part is on the left cylinder.Bad news.jpg

 

Any thoughts or advice from the forum on what I should do to fix this?

 

Picture is attached.  And yes, the block is really dirty.  That was to be my next project, before this problem happened...


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#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 06:15 AM

Is there enough room behind the broken off ear to take a piece of 5/16 or thicker  flat stock cut and tap it , kind of like a funny shaped nut


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#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 07:17 AM

Is there enough room behind the broken off ear to take a piece of 5/16 or thicker flat stock cut and tap it , kind of like a funny shaped nut


I like this idea, do you happen to have the piece that broke off to use as a spacer ? If not it may put odd stresses on what's left
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#4 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 08:13 AM

I like this idea, do you happen to have the piece that broke off to use as a spacer ? If not it may put odd stresses on what's left

Sounds like a great idea MH..

 

OR-->  he can take a ride over to 'EARS R US'


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#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 08:15 AM

That piece can be welded back on again.  A good welding shop could do it but would probably want the piece off the engine.   Get it red hot then weld it, let it cool and re tap the threaded hole out.  I have not done it bu seen where it was done.


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#6 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 08:36 AM

On the exhaust manifold outlet for a 283 Chevy I had a similar problem. The solution was a repair that my local auto parts store sold. It was a two piece collar that fit on the manifold behind the outlet flange. When the two pieces were put together they formed a flange behind the manifold flange. They had threaded holes to bolt the exhaust pipe onto and made a good repair. You could probably look at some commercial ones(if they are allowed to use them on cars now) and then fabricate your own. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, February 22, 2016 - 08:36 AM.

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#7 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 09:34 AM

Get rid of that PB blaster and make your own. Try mixing 1 quart of Acetone & 1 quart of ATF ( red). I did it and it works great . It is said to be 200 times better than PB blaster. As for the broken of ear you might have some luck with bolting all the way thru the existing hole and using a flat washer and nut. There may be just enough of the ear left to let it hold. I have done this in the past with good results.


Edited by Deerlope, February 22, 2016 - 09:34 AM.

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#8 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 09:52 AM

Weld a stud in it , got any welder buddies?

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#9 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 10:26 AM

I like the other ideas already offered, but if none of them work for you, there is another possibility. 

 

IF the exhaust manifold can be raised without interference, a flat plate of approx. 1/4" thickness could be drilled to match the 4 existing holes.  .....The hole where the flange is broken gets tapped for the bolt threads, while the other 3 holes are clearance holes for their (longer) bolts.  ....You still need to remove the broken bolt.

 

Of course, the exhaust port holes would have to be cut in the plate.

 

Your flange looks very rough and uneven.  .....High-temp silicone sealer can be used to seal the flanges to the manifold, and may offer a better seal than a gasket.


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#10 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 10:33 AM

Great thread.!!!   I like the welded stud idea...   I have had a piece of cast welded before...  Go to a qualified welding shop and ask for their advice before jumping into anything rash...   You didn't post.??   do you have the ear..??


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#11 grattone ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 02:05 PM

With or without the broken off ear, my vote is for the stud welded in the threads, were not talking a lot of pressure or a wear point here right.


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#12 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 04:34 PM

Great ideas from everyone!  Thank you.  As to the part of the ear - um - yeah, its in the barn - somewhere - I know about where (it flung off when I was removing it and I heard it hit.  I'll look for it tomorrow...    :wallbanging:

 

I'm thinking about loading the tractor on my trailer and taking it to a muffler shop for welding the bolt on it like WrenchingOnIt suggested.  That seems to be the strongest suggestion.  Not doing it right away - gotta rebuild the carb on my Farmall Cub first (for spring plowing and also to pull the Bolens onto the trailer.  It's always something, ain't it?  

 

I'll post pictures of the repair when I get 'er done.  Geeze...kinda makes one wonder why we work on these old tractors, huh?  I guess it's because we love it!

 

Thanks again to all for the input!

 

Jim


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#13 greystone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 05:51 PM

My idea would to weld a nut on the stud if you can. Then  try gently to get it out. Re-drill the stud for a heli-coil. Put a stainless heli-oil in with a stainless bolt.


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#14 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 06:04 AM

You could try putting the juice to it. Grind the end of the stud so it is clean. Do the same with a spot on the block close to the problem stud. Take a well charged battery and using booster cables put one clamp on the block and the other to a length of steel bar. Touch the steel bar to the end of the clean broken stud for about 2 seconds. With luck you will see a puff of rust blow out. Let it cool and often a left hand drill bit applied to the end of the stud will walk it out. If it does not get a hole in it and an easy-out should easily remove it.

 

Rust between the stud and the block is resistance to current flow which creates heat right where you want it.

 

Garry


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#15 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 07:24 PM

Cool!  The broken bolt gets to meet "Old Sparky"!

 

I'll give it a try this weekend, Garry, thanks!

 

Jim


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