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Suggestions For Removal Of a Seized Briggs Flywheel


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 08:16 PM

I need to replace the starter on a Briggs twin horizontal opposed engine.  I have a puller on the flywheel for 2 days and have been spraying it with PB Blaster.  Is it safe to heat the center of the flywheel with an alternator under it?



#2 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 08:35 PM

I've done it before so has a lot others as last resort. If you leave puller on it help as heat sink on the crankshaft, heat around center but not the shaft. Just don't over heat to much.


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#3 Marty'70 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 08:39 PM

Have you tried hitting the top of the forceing bolt with a hammer while under pressure?

Edited by Marty'70, February 16, 2016 - 08:40 PM.

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#4 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 08:44 PM

It risky but I have done it a few times. I took a pry bar on each side and have some one hit the top with a hammer. I haven't broke one yet but it is risky.


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#5 Marty'70 OFFLINE  

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    I didn't do it! Unless you have paperwork to back it up

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 08:45 PM

Sorry. I'm thinking of a 3jaw puller. I believe the puller for a Briggs doesn't use a center forceing bolt
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#6 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 09:30 PM

on cast iron flywheels I use my air hammer and lightly go around the shaft set at around 50 lbs. air pressure or less.

on aluminum I did not know if I would try that.  I might try it with air pressure under 20 lbs.


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#7 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 09:35 PM

A few hits with a small hammer. Light hits as if you were tapping in a finish nail. Go to the centre, then outward and back in, while you still have the puller tensed up on the flywheel. Also cool the area quick, then heat quick, while the pressure is on, still using your hammer method.
Just some thoughts,

Noel
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#8 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 09:36 PM

Put the Nut on till it's Flush with the end of the crank,put a crow bar or large screwdriver under the flywheel and push down hard.Then give the nut 1 good smack with a heavy hammer.3-5lb mini sledge works best.

Should only take 1 good smack to pop the flywheel loose.

 

Make sure you hit it Flat on the top of the nut.Not off to the side of you could snap the threaded part of the crank off.I've snapped 2 but both were on old worn out Kohlers briggs flywheels usually break loose pretty easy.


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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 10:14 PM

I have a puller that uses the cent bolt on the crank shaft and two bolts down through slots into the top of the flywheel. Actually a steering wheel puller.  I don't have a jaw puller big enough to reach the outside of the flywheel.  Might have to do some improvising as I am reluctant to use heat as I do need that flywheel and alternator.  thanks for the tips and will see what tomorrow shakes out.



#10 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 10:50 PM

Myself I have terrible hammering skills and always muck up the crankshaft threads..  A MAPP torch is all I use along with a 3 jaw puller..  Pressure on the puller as much as you dare without deforming the C/S end..  Then apply heat in a circle about 1/2" away from the C/S and it will pop right off after a minute or so..  This way has worked on every flywheel I've had problems with adn I've had no adverse effects..  But that's just me..


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#11 jimmy G ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2016 - 11:03 PM

I've had good luck doing it the way Marty'70 said, the pulling bolts need all the thread you can get,I use a big screw driver or small pry bar under the flywheel when hitting the puller to keep the force from being translated through the crank, after every wack I tighten the thrust bolt, it should pop, if you put heat on it and Thiers a seal on that crank you might want to change the seal wile in their

#12 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2016 - 01:24 AM

I have a puller that uses the cent bolt on the crank shaft and two bolts down through slots into the top of the flywheel. Actually a steering wheel puller.  I don't have a jaw puller big enough to reach the outside of the flywheel.  Might have to do some improvising as I am reluctant to use heat as I do need that flywheel and alternator.  thanks for the tips and will see what tomorrow shakes out.

 

Crows foot puller? Tighten it down and give the big center bolt on puller a good whack with a hammer.It will pop loose.Alot safer than sticking a crow bar under the flywheel.Don't be afraid to give it a good whack.Don't try to pull it off just by cranking it.You'll pull the threads right out of the cast iron flywheel.

 

Whish you were closer.I'de have it off for ya in a couple seconds.


Edited by EricFromPa, February 17, 2016 - 01:25 AM.


#13 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2016 - 08:08 AM

Sounds like my thinking of using heat as a last resort only was right on. Have help coming this morning so will put a couple long crow bars between the flywheel edge and the block, nut on the crank and pig blacksmith hammer.

The puller I am using is actually a steering wheel puller with 2 - 5/16 bolts down into the flywheel.  Really need one similar and use 4 bolts but don't have one.  My son is bringing his Briggs flywheel puller down this morning.  Will see what it looks like.

Thanks much for all the suggestions.  It will either come off or go back and get a different motor.


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#14 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2016 - 08:31 AM

I've been using the correct factory pullers for over 30 years. They were about $5 each for 4 of them at that time. They have paid for themselves many times over in time saved and damage prevented. Good Luck, Rick



#15 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2016 - 09:37 AM

I have a picture somewhere. HF Puller tightened as far as the Air impact would take it, then a 25 lb sledge hammer. Hit the puller bolt dead center with all you got.

Yea, this was after ALL the above didn't work.






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