I was reading on how to adjust the varidrive on my mf12g and it said u might have to remove some shims on the drive pulley on the trans. If i had to have some shims where could get some or can you use something else? Thanks
mf12g varidrive
Started by
wje
, Apr 28, 2011 01:38 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
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wje
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Posted April 28, 2011 - 01:38 PM
#2
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wje
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Posted April 28, 2011 - 01:42 PM
Just won't to say thanks to everybody that has given me information on my posts, sometimes i might forget to say thanks so this thanks for the past and future i have enjoyed this site alot and everybody has been great. Thanks
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Lost in Cyber Space
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Posted April 28, 2011 - 01:48 PM
Did you happen to check to see if you have any shims? I am guessing you will have all of them. They might all be on the inside or some on the inside and some on the outside. It wouldn't be hard to make some new shims yourself with some sheet metal or flat stock. Use a transfer punch to mark the mounting holes in the new shims and cut out the center large enough.
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FirefyterEmt
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Tractorholic
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Posted April 28, 2011 - 07:45 PM
I have done this three times by the book.... and I STILL do not really have a good idea on just how it's done! Every time I follow the directions it either slips at take off, of looses gears towards 5th. I have had the best luck adjusting "on the fly" until it's decent. It's not an easy thing to work with when you have to take in the proper "slack" so that the belt stops when you step on the clutch. Proper tension in low at take off, full range into 5th, Oh.... and don't forget the brakes have to work just right too!
AND I just remembered... you need the right tension so that park works. Not too loose, not too tight! Too loose is not fun when that varri-drive lever flips over the stopper! It can put your hand into the belt pulley if you have covers off... while you adjust the belts with the motor running!
AND I just remembered... you need the right tension so that park works. Not too loose, not too tight! Too loose is not fun when that varri-drive lever flips over the stopper! It can put your hand into the belt pulley if you have covers off... while you adjust the belts with the motor running!
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Elf guardian
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Posted April 28, 2011 - 07:55 PM
I have done this three times by the book.... and I STILL do not really have a good idea on just how it's done! Every time I follow the directions it either slips at take off, of looses gears towards 5th. I have had the best luck adjusting "on the fly" until it's decent. It's not an easy thing to work with when you have to take in the proper "slack" so that the belt stops when you step on the clutch. Proper tension in low at take off, full range into 5th, Oh.... and don't forget the brakes have to work just right too!
AND I just remembered... you need the right tension so that park works. Not too loose, not too tight! Too loose is not fun when that varri-drive lever flips over the stopper! It can put your hand into the belt pulley if you have covers off... while you adjust the belts with the motor running!
:ditto:Yeah, It is a bit of a painful process, but worth it in the end.
Follow the instructions to the letter, and start with brand new belts from MF dealer.
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Electric Tractors
Posted April 28, 2011 - 08:32 PM
I have had good luck in doing the Vari-Drive adjustment procedure, made everything work right, all the speeds, brakes everything seems to work good.
IMO you need to follow the book step by step in order.
1- disconnect the brake rod.
2- set the adjusting nut in 5th with engine running just like they say.
3- check the tension pulley in Park and add or take away shims from in between the rear pulley sheaths, if the tension pulley momentarily touches the step plate it's OK. Put the unused shims on the outside of the rear pulley for storage.
4- reattach the brake rod and adjust as they say.
You need to have all the guards and guides in place for the belt to stop turning when shifting the trany from neutral to a gear, even then it takes a while for the belts to stop. The double sheath pulley acks like a flywheel and makes it hard for the belts to stop turning so you can shift without grinding the gears.
The front belt seems to wear the most and needs to run on the sides not the bottom of the belt. This happens on the crank pulley and that's where you check to see that it's not too narrow.
The rear belt doesn't matter so much as there is a lot of adjustment in the rear pulley shims.
IMO you need to follow the book step by step in order.
1- disconnect the brake rod.
2- set the adjusting nut in 5th with engine running just like they say.
3- check the tension pulley in Park and add or take away shims from in between the rear pulley sheaths, if the tension pulley momentarily touches the step plate it's OK. Put the unused shims on the outside of the rear pulley for storage.
4- reattach the brake rod and adjust as they say.
You need to have all the guards and guides in place for the belt to stop turning when shifting the trany from neutral to a gear, even then it takes a while for the belts to stop. The double sheath pulley acks like a flywheel and makes it hard for the belts to stop turning so you can shift without grinding the gears.
The front belt seems to wear the most and needs to run on the sides not the bottom of the belt. This happens on the crank pulley and that's where you check to see that it's not too narrow.
The rear belt doesn't matter so much as there is a lot of adjustment in the rear pulley shims.
